Duration: 22 days
Stage 1 – Adelaide to Port Lincoln
Well after all our planning and preparation, Day 1 of this epic journey was about to begin. Leaving Adelaide on the 31st December 2023, New Years Eve was quite poignant given we had arrived in Adelaide on New Years Day 2021. After completing last minute preparations and with our close neighbours on the dock to see us off, we departed 35 South Marina at daybreak, smoothly sailing out of the breakwater straight into a 1 – 1½ metre southerly swell. Not the start we had hoped for. With jib and mainsail deployed and the starboard engine at 1500rpm, we settled for 5-6 knots SOG. The swell was constant, hitting our port hull, reaching our first waypoint at Marion Reef just south of Edithburgh at 1220.
Our next waypoint required us to traverse Investigator Strait. Previous sails across this Strait can be likened to a washing machine with Sandra succumbing to the dreaded seasickness. Thankfully the sea gods were kind, and we made good time rounding the corner to Spencer Gulf as night settled in. Wind speed dropped (10 – 15kn), the sea calmed, pitch black sky for a while then the moon came up just before midnight. Happy New Year! We sailed overnight, the first for us in a very long time. Not as easy this time and we both struggled from lack of sleep. (Though not surprising given we were up at 0345 the previous morning). Our original plan of six hourly watches was quickly discarded, two hourly was all we could manage at this point in time. As the night progressed, the wind and sea state required much closer monitoring so it was a very long and exhausting night.
We made our way through the main shipping channel of Spencer Gulf, as venturing outside of this would require dodging the many fish farms that are on both sides of the channel. Peter had previously checked out possible anchorages where we could get respite from southerly winds and into calmer waters. He settled on Fisherman Point, part of Spalding Cove, Jussieu Peninsula. Then – anchored, breakfast, anchor watch on, bed – perfect.
Next day we took the dinghy to shore and walked around the cove’s horseshoe beach. With craggy rock formations at either end of the bay and crystal clear water it was really pleasant …. until huge sandflies arrived. Sandra got bitten, but they avoided Peter. I remember reading somewhere about not putting body lotion on in these environments even if unscented since it attracts flies, mozzies, fleas etc. Lesson learnt!
With the arrival of gusting winds and rain, we anchored in Spalding Cove longer than anticipated, three nights in all. It’s a good anchorage so no problems there. We just chilled out, chatted with family back in Adelaide, Peter completed our passage plan to Streaky Bay. We had also been thinking about heading into Port Lincoln for a couple of days to check out the town and get our electrical cords tagged and tested. (Evidence of this is a must for Western Australian marinas). So we contacted Port Lincoln Marina and we were in luck, a double berth was available which was great. Check out our review of Spalding Cove Anchorage and Port Lincoln Marina here https://seagoddessadventures.com/spalding-cove-anchorage/ and https://seagoddessadventures.com/port-lincoln-marina/
Port Lincoln
We arrived at the marina early on a Friday morning, and as previously mentioned one of our top priorities in Port Lincoln was to get our electrical cord tagged and tested. We had already teed up an electrician who promised a short turn around time. So once all our post sail checks were completed to our satisfaction we headed out for a long, long walk – just over 11,000 steps one way. We dropped the cord off with a pickup time of Monday, then headed for Bunnings. I swear Peter can smell a Bunnings 5 miles away. As is common nowadays Bunnings was part of a franchise shopping centre and all the usual stores were there or nearby. Then it was a return walk back to the boat and a treat of a meal at the hotel located next door to the marina. Our thoughts about the meal can be found here https://seagoddessadventures.com/port-lincoln-marina/
Over the next couple of days we were holed up on the boat due to thunderstorms and drenching rain. We used this time to make soup; odd jobs inside the boat and started a new jigsaw. Sandra is a fanatic jigsawer, only problem is once the puzzle comes out nothing else gets done. So much so that she now limits herself to one per month. This one was a doozy, circular and intricate and Peter got hooked in as well. It was a gifted puzzle and missing a couple of pieces but well worth the challenge. Monday arrived and Peter headed off to pick up the tagged electrical cord, cost $55.00* including GST. Next on our list for the morning was a top up provision shop at a supermarket in the town centre. Taxi costs from marina to supermarket – $14.00* each way and given there are no public transport options available you don’t have a lot of choice. Once back and with a plan to leave for Streaky Bay tomorrow, we headed out for some exercise. Walking in front of the apartments that border the marina, we crossed a small bridge to ….. you guessed it Bridge Crescent, then onto St Andrew’s Drive before arriving at Billy Lights Point Boat Ramp about a 7km round trip, enough to get some huffy puffy exercise happening. On our return it was time to get the boat prepped, something to eat and a good night’s rest.
*Prices correct at time of publication.
Stage 2 – Port Lincoln to Streaky Bay
You’ve gotta laugh at some of the names of coastal places and bays. Some names are obvious because of the shape, location, vegetation, or rock formations. Some are probably named after kings, queens, skippers, crew, their families or hometowns. But others no idea, and we often wondered who named them and why that name …. Point Fanny, Rotten Bay, Carcass Point and we’re sure there will be more of such along our journey.
Once we were near Taylor Island we changed course and with little wind continued motoring between the island and mainland. We had a tip from a marina neighbour in Adelaide to check out Grindal Island (sounds like something out of Treasure Island, don’t you think). Well we weren’t disappointed, the slabs of rock on the shore line were littered with seals all lazing about without a care in the world. Just amazing!! And if that wasn’t enough a large pod of dolphins arrived to have a fish-fest. We just loved this spot and the surrounds, so much so that we moved slightly further out and anchored for the night. https://seagoddessadventures.com/grindal-island-anchorage/
The next day we breakfasted while we watched the sun rise then we were off, motor sailing passed Cape Catastrophe (I think the name says it all) by 7-ish then across the peninsula to Cape Carnot. Rugged, scrubby hills with sharp drops, often with mounds of huge rocks at the bottom as though they had toppled from high into the sea. During the afternoon we passed a number of islands and stunning white beaches that went on for miles. No doubt these would be a huge drawcard if they weren’t so isolated and the waters so unpredictable. By 1700 winds had picked up considerably, 25-30 knots with 1½ – 2 metre seas. As we approached Point Sir Isaac we had some difficulty getting the mainsail down, a combination of wind and chop, it wasn’t tidy but it was down. Next door was Seasick Bay our anchorage for the night. For real it is called Seasick Bay and it’s not even a bay it’s a beach with a pile of rocks at either end, the monohull we had been following was bang in the centre, ugh! So we took the northern end and got in as close as we could to the beach, avoiding the scattered undersea rocks we anchored in sand while leaving enough swing room. Top tip: the anchor alarm is your best friend in these conditions. Check out https://seagoddessadventures.com/point-sir-issac-anchorage/
The next leg required a full day sail and an overnight sail as well, so we left Seasick Bay a bit later the next morning. (This would allow us to arrive at our next destination in daylight. We try as much as we can to arrive at our destination after sunrise and before sunset – docking, anchoring and mooring is just so much easier). Initially the wind was directly behind us, so we motor-sailed for the first part with Peter putting a preventer on the main and the jib. Over the next few hours the wind gradually gathered strength and turned South-South East which was great for us. It was quite awe inspiring to think we were sailing the Southern Ocean, nothing between us and Antarctica!! The water was the most beautiful aquamarine colour and super clear as well. To starboard we passed impressive cliffs near Elliston, two rocks called The Watchers (aptly named as one of the rocks looked like a googly eye on the navigation instruments), after the Watchers came Anxious Bay. And you’ve got to wonder what happened here for the bay to get that name. Then onto Topgallant Isles with Flinders Island behind on our portside.
There are two incredible sights that never cease to grow old, one is sunsets and that evening it was absolutely glorious, setting quite quickly but leaving behind hues of yellow, peach, pinks, lilacs until night fell. Then we found ourselves under a canopy of a gazillion stars, no moon that night, just sailing with starlight and the shooshing sound of Sea Goddess as she moved through the water, just magic.
We continued to motor sail throughout the night, Peter up around 0500 to change course which was made particularly challenging with strong winds and swell. Luckily the main and jib were already reefed and with both engines on we got on course. With strong current and competing swells, Sandra nursed our passage through the last hour of her shift watching the dawn glow as we passed Gibson Peninsula. With the sails in we motored into Streaky Bay, taking careful note of channel and danger markers which were the cone type floating in the water. Some nice beaches on either side and a small oyster farm set up.
As we neared the township and jetty we were taking note of possible anchorage points. Mainly heavy weed, though there were some sand patches, and we took advantage of one to set anchor in Smoke House Bay. About an hour in we were visited by a local in his tinny who advised us a ‘big blow’ was predicted that afternoon and it would be best if we moved to another location across the bay nearer to the caravan park. There was also a mooring there that we could use, but he couldn’t tell us the specifications or if it had been maintained or not. Plenty of sand here so we decided not to risk the mooring, and re-anchored.
After heading to the foreshore on the dinghy, we made our way into the town centre which is very small but had all the usuals. Petrol station, IGA supermarket, post office, pub/hotel, pharmacy, gift shop, real estate agent, op shop, restaurant and a couple of cafes. The priority was to post a letter so once completed, and with Sandra feeling overheated in the scorching dry heat we headed back to the boat. We had only been back on the boat for about 20 minutes when the anchor alarm went off. The head on wind had significantly picked up, and with the profusion of sand we knew the anchor had dragged. We decided to try for the mooring, and while we were retrieving the anchor another boat snaffled it. With the wind gusting up to 40knots, averaging 30knots, we decided to move and get some shelter. We tried two other spots, but due to the wind strength and angle and the sea state these weren’t suitable either. Luckily Peter had seen a possible anchor spot when we were heading in but didn’t pursue it at that time because of the distance from the town.
Cape Bauer is littered with large sand patches and we anchored here with no problem. Once all the drama had passed and we had time to draw breath, we couldn’t help but be thankful we came back on board when we did. Our original plan after the post office was to head to the pub for a drink and a light meal, but with Sandra being unwell we gave it a miss. Don’t even want to think about what might have happened to the boat if we had stayed in town longer. We stayed at Cape Bauer for 2 nights resting up, doing some onboard jobs and waiting for a good weather window to cross the Bight. Check out our review of these anchorages here https://seagoddessadventures.com/streaky-bay-anchorage/ and https://seagoddessadventures.com/cape-bauer-anchorage/
Stage 3 – Streaky Bay/Cape Bauer to Esperance
Up early to prepare for our departure from Cape Bauer, and really excited to begin our crossing of the Great Australian Bight, it’s been on our bucket list for a long time. Unfortunately, the ESE wind direction directly behind us is spoiling the party. With engines on, jib and main deployed with preventers to achieve a butterfly formation we motor sailed for most of the day. We also brought the clears down and have found we can get an extra ½ – 1kn Speed Over Ground (SOG) which doesn’t sound much but over the course of a day it adds up. Once again we were treated to an amazing landscape – cliffs, beaches, islands. The sea was lumpy and bumpy all day, though we did manage to sail for a few hours until the wind dropped around 2300 hours and the engines went back on. This was our second overnight sail since leaving Adelaide, and they are definitely more difficult until your body adjusts. We have found the more nights in a row the better. It’s the periods of stop start that are the kicker. We now run with a 4 hour on, 4 hour off roster day and night and this works for us.
Day 2 and we are heading up the east coast of the Bight, Yalata Land, the landscape here dominated by expanses of super white sand that stretch on and on. At 1715 we reached the Head of the Bight and Bunda Cliffs, and we were stoked. Lots of piccies so we can look back on this achievement in years to come. Then the clouds rolled in and the swell picked up. The night didn’t improve, winds 25+ knots and seas like a washing machine. Reefing sails in the dark with the wind howling and feeling like you’re on a bucking bronco may be exhilarating for some, for us it’s part and parcel of the sailing journey but painful nonetheless. Plus it means one of us has lost an hour of shut eye. The wind and sea conditions continued throughout Day 3, crossing into Western Australia a tad before noon Yay!!
As the day progressed with more of the same conditions we were both exhausted and cooking was out of the question. So, we got by with lollies, CC’s, crackers and sweet biscuits. The nearest protected anchorage was two days away and would require us to significantly change course, better than bouncing around getting no where fast, so we headed for Daw Island. 45 ½ hours later we were anchored between Daw Island and New Year Island, YEAH!!. Daw Island is lovely, a large headland with rounded peak at one end flowing down to a long lower expanse then rising to another flat-topped peak. We were greeted by the honking of a colony of seals who spent the morning swimming and sunning on the rocks. At lunchtime the bull arrived on the beach to check us out, we obviously weren’t seen as a threat but he hung around for a few hours anyway. We considered taking the dinghy to shore, but in the end decided not to do so. Firstly, our landing point would be very close to the seals and as this is their territory, we didn’t want to disturb them any further, plus there was a report on Zulu Waterways that the island is home to large numbers of death adders ……. so that would be a no. How they got there is anyone’s guess! https://seagoddessadventures.com/daw-island-anchorage/
After a great night’s sleep and a berth organised at Bandy Creek Boat Harbour, we upped anchor the next morning heading for Esperance. Southeast of Bellinger Island we came upon large patches of what we believe to be plankton on the surface of the water. Camel brown in colour each patch was like a carpet. At times the edge had a striated or marbled effect which was really gorgeous, like a large painting or mural. And as the hulls moved through the patches, the plankton was pushed to the side giving the appearance of melted milk chocolate. If only!!
We sailed passed many bays and islands on our way to Esperance, we had planned to anchor a couple of nights at Goose Island Bay but with predicted 35+ knot winds in the offing we decided to keep moving just in case the winds came early. It was a tense night watch for Sandra as we dodged a number of islands; huge rocks that protruded from the sea and a number of reefs on a dark night. Peter navigated an excellent course that kept us safe and moving. But there were times when my perception suggested that these huge monoliths rising from the water were closer than they were. Peter told me ‘Trust the navigation tools and charts’, me I like to eyeball stuff as well.
We arrived at Bandy Creek Boat Harbour (Esperance) around 7-ish the next morning. Sandra prepped the boat for docking as we entered the breakwater, and as we took a sharp starboard turn it quickly became apparent that our regular docking set up was not going to work. It wasn’t a dock but a wharf, with large old wooden pylons, the end one dressed in old tyres. Well it was a mad scramble as the wooden gangway was higher than the deck, so all the fenders had to be raised. And there was not a cleat in sight. We were blow on, so Peter managed to steer the boat so that Sandra could get off, unfortunately in doing so a black tyre mark discoloured the starboard side of Sea Goddess, ugh!
Once off Sandra secured a midship line around the nearest pole which was about halfway along. Peter left the helm and threw out the bow line which was also secured but the boat still needed to move forward. By loosening the midship line, bringing in the bow line and using the engines, little by little we moved her along, repositioning fenders (mainly horizontally) as we went. Honestly this was the worst docking experience we have had to date, and the rest of the marina didn’t look much better. Coming off a full night’s sail with associated watches this was the last thing we needed. Next – food, organised a hire car for tomorrow then sleep in that order. PS We got the tyre marks easily off with Jif. Check out our review of Bandy Creek Boat Harbour here https://seagoddessadventures.com/bandy-creek-boat-harbour/
Esperance
The following day we got a taxi from the marina to the Information Centre ($28.00 one way fare). Even though we have done our homework on essential tasks we need to complete for example post office, top up shop, as well as places we would like to visit, it’s our usual routine to stop at the local Information Centre the day we arrive to get initial directions, maps and suggestions for other places to visit. And in this case it was well worth stopping by. After picking up the hire car we headed out on a circular scenic drive called the ‘Great Ocean Drive’. Following the map, courtesy of the Information Centre, and stopping at various points along the way, we were blown away by beauty of rugged headlands, crystal clear waters and long stretches of sandy coastline which are a stone’s throw away from the town centre. And it just got better and better.
The next day we drove east to Cape Le Grand National Park ($10.00 entry per car with senior’s discount). We spent the morning Oohing and Aahing; as we took in even more amazing scenery ….. Cape Le Grand, Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove with its Whispering Rock and lastly Lucky Bay for a packed lunch (where if you are ‘lucky’ you’ll see kangaroos hop along the beach particularly at sunrise). Frenchman Peak towers over the interior park scrub land and we had planned to complete the 2 – 3 hour hike up to the top after lunch. But given Sandra’s shortness of breath climbing some of the headlands and stairs to observation points she bowed out. As it was getting well into the afternoon when we arrived at the base, Peter gave it a miss too but we got some fabulous piccies.
Heading back to the marina we took a slight detour to Lucky Bay Brewery on Fisheries Road. A large range of beers were on offer, and we both tried honey beer and mulberry beer. Peter settled on the honey beer which he said was very nice but not as good as his favourite Asahi. Sandra had her standard glass of Sauvignon Blanc, but this was only permitted if you bought something to eat …….. a small bowl of chips was the cheapest thing on the menu at $12.50! (Think a cup of chips that you would buy at a fairground).
For our last full day with the hire car we headed 127km west along the South Coast Highway to Munglinup, a very small town/roadhouse where we each bought a famous Mungy Burger ……. you name it and it was on it, and it was de-licious! ($15.00 each and it was worth every mouthful). Then onto Munglinup beach and reef via dirt roads, the water was freezing so we gave the planned swim a miss settling for a long walk in the shallows.
With the car due for return at midday the next day, we headed to Woolies for a top up shop and to fill drums with diesel for the boat. Once dropped off at the boat it was a return trip into town, car dropped off, lunch, then a 9km walk via the esplanade and beach back to the marina. We stopped off along the way to book an overnight mooring at Woody Island, an ecotourism resort, about 9 nautical miles direct from Bandy Creek Boat Harbour. Overnight moorings are free here, as long as you book and contribute in some way i.e. purchasing a meal, drinks or the like while you are there.
Last day in Esperance we got some more huffy puffy exercise walking along the beach of Wylie Bay to Wylie Head (1½ hours each way). At low tide you can walk via a spit to large climbable rocks that are partly submerged at other times of the day. Very nice, but the real entertainment was happening on the opposite side. 4WD cars attempting to ‘drive’ up the granite headland to the top. Some made it and there was lots of Whoop-ing, some didn’t, only to come down and try again. Must be one of the local ‘bragging rights’ challenges, crazy stuff.
Our plans to leave Esperance for Woody Island the next day were scuppered by the wind, predicted to be NW turning SE at 30 – 40 knots with gusts up to 50 knots. So our agenda changed to a chilled boat day.
In a nutshell, the southeast region of Western Australia is Australia’s best kept secret. The scenery here is spectacular, the beaches are on a par with those of Queensland, people we met were friendly and helpful. To our family and friends, we would highly recommend making the trek. A car is a must as most of these places are a distance from town, a campervan or caravan would be even better.
