Duration: 5 days

After walking around town to obtain all the required clearance papers we left Noumea around 1300 hours on Monday 9^th December. (Prior to departing the boat’s clock was amended to reflect Brisbane local time). We had a spectacular sail with good winds passed the inner and outer reefs. The surf and the water colour were truly amazing. Just like the postcards and tourist ads that you see. There was also one lone kite surfer on the outer reef having an awesome surf. (The outer reef is approximately 12 nautical miles offshore). He/She was assisted by a power boat, which time and time again took the surfer back out to where all the wave action was happening. What’s the story? No idea, but at best guess a film or video crew getting some amazing footage.

Later that day, around 2100, we had to change course from 227ᴼ (M) to 222ᴼ (M) to avoid a cargo ship, the Sofrana Tourvill which was on a direct collision course with us, and was not responding to our VHF radio calls on Channel 16. By changing course, we safely crossed, our starboard to her port with a distance of about 5 nautical miles. We kept a visual watch on the cargo ship until she was well passed our stern. By 2200 we were back on course, so all good.

For the remainder of our voyage we motor sailed due to light winds and a 1-2 knot current against us, but we still managed to travel between 157 – 168 nautical miles each day which we were happy with. We continued with 6 hour watches which was working really well, and snoozing/sleeping for a few hours after each watch.  Peter had the 0100 – 0700 and 1300 -1900 shifts, Sandra had the 0700 – 1300 and 1900 – 0100 shifts. Physically and mentally we were both in great shape, and there was a real sense of excitement and anticipation in the air.

We arrived home – happy but shaken!

Well! What a last night of sailing on our trip from Les Sables-d’Olonne to Brisbane!

100 miles off the coast of Queensland we got caught in the largest squall/thunderstorm that we had seen in the entire trip. We saw it on our port side for ages – big, black and intense with lighting everywhere. Totally scary stuff. We tried to go around it and when that didn’t work we tried to out run it and almost made it with the engines running full throttle, but it was not to be. With the mainsail reefed and de-powered, jib reefed to a hankerchief size the squall slammed into us. 47-50 knot winds (90km/hour) hit us. We had our life jackets on and tethered, hanging onto the helm as we were surrounded by constant lightning and heavy rain. Peter turned Sea Goddess around to decrease the apparent wind, so we had the wind from behind us and we were still doing 16 knots boat speed. Fortunately, the sea state was good, there were no large swells and Sea Goddess handled the conditions well. For 45 minutes we were like this, then the radar showed a clearing patch of squall and Peter was able move the boat towards it, slow down a little and let the squall move on. We were both so relieved when the winds dropped below 30 knots, the crash of thunder was no longer overhead, and lightning bolts were now heading towards the horizon.

We suffered some damage in the storm. The stack pack (the bag that holds the mainsail when it is lowered), was ripped off the boom and pointed 45 degrees into the air. The top of the mainsail had been pushed behind shrouds and while Sandra took the helm Peter spent the next hour carefully freeing the mainsail, so as not to rip the sail or break the battens. Once the sail was freed, we were able to raise the main to the 1st reef, get back on course and get underway again. And just as importantly, we had a drink of wine to celebrate surviving the squall.

Next morning as the sun rose, we could clearly see the Australian coastline for the first time, and after 5 ½ months away from home, family and friends we were both quite emotional. We continued southward along the Queensland coastline passing the Glass House Mountains and the town of Caloundra in the Sunshine Coast region. Caloundra is also the start of the main shipping channel into Brisbane Harbour. From here it took another 4 ½ hours to reach Rivergate Marina which is located on the Brisbane River. Here we will complete clearing in requirements for Australian immigration, customs and biosecurity. Click here for our review of Rivergate Marina http://seagoddessadventures.com/rivergate-marina-brisbane/ .

Clearing in

Firstly, there is a dedicated Australian Boarder Force (ABF)/Biosecurity dock at Rivergate Marina, it is just forward of the fuel dock.  Contact details for ABF and Biosecurity are easily found on signage at the berth.  Prior to arrival Peter emailed Rivergate Marina to confirm availability of the ABF/Biosecurity berth.  He also emailed ABF/Biosecurity to provide an update of estimated arrival time. 

We docked at 1500 hours on Saturday 14^th December and using the telephone numbers displayed on the signage, Peter contacted the ABF and Biosecurity offices advising them of our arrival. Three ABF staff arrived approximately 1 ½ hours after we docked, and we had completed immigration and customs check in. One outstanding matter was that related to import duty on the boat.  ABF staff recommended we engage an import agent to assist with this process, and we took that advice onboard.  The only kicker being that we have a limited zone of travel until import duty is paid, and we were provided with a map of the ‘permissible zone’.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t obtain biosecurity clearance as it was too late in the day, but we were advised a biosecurity officer would arrive at approximately 8am on Sunday morning. The delay with biosecurity clearance meant that nothing could be removed from the boat until the biosecurity process had been fully completed and we were given the all clear.  It may also be useful to note that there is no charge for using the ‘clearing in’ berth, and that boats need be off the ‘clearing in’ berth within 24 hours of arrival unless there is an issue with ABF and/or Biosecurity.

Next morning the biosecurity officer arrived as planned, and she spent time talking to us about things to watch out for when traveling overseas and in particular when travelling back to Australia.  She checked our remaining perishable and packaged food, checked the boat for insects and other pests, and particularly inspected timber surfaces and structures. Just over an hour later we were fully cleared into Australia, the only outstanding matter was what to do with the prohibited food items and our rubbish.  Once again, we experienced different rules regarding prohibited items.  Ham which was fully sealed and in date whilst permitted elsewhere was not permitted in Australia, in fact all pork products were inadmissible to Australia.  In terms of disposal, the biosecurity officer directed us to dispose of the ham at the marina office where it is stored in a secure frozen rubbish bin.  A charge of between $75 – $150 is levied by the marina depending on the amount of inadmissible product.  Our ‘normal’ rubbish was disposed of in a ‘regular’ rubbish bin.  So, a good outcome in terms of clearing in.  As an aside we both found our time with ABF and Biosecurity staff to be extremely informative and most helpful. 

With the formalities over, we left Rivergate Marina for the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron, our new home at least for the immediate future. Based in Manly, a seaside suburb of Brisbane, RQYS is close to all the services and amenities we need going forward.

It is somewhat surreal to be back home and to realise that this amazing journey is over. Looking back at the map where we have travelled, thinking about the places we visited, and the gorgeous people we met along the way, the trip truly was a once in a lifetime adventure. Sandra’s Mum would often say ‘One door closes and another opens’, which is most poignant here. While this is the end of Sea Goddess’s maiden voyage, it is not the end of our sailing adventures. We are already planning the ‘What next?’ and hope to entice family, friends and would be sailors to join us and experience how amazing boat life can be.

Lastly, more blogs are in the planning and we look forward to sharing our travels of Moreton Bay and south east Queensland with you so be sure to check in and follow our ongoing journey.

This was essentially another rest up and reprovisioning stop for us, we only planned to stay one night but that stretched out to three. Here comes that time zone thing again, we arrived 1430 on Friday 6^th December (ship’s time) but it was actually Saturday morning Noumea time. Since immigration staff did not work on weekends we would have to wait until Monday morning to clear in and clear out (yip, clear in then walk to another part of the same office and clear out).

On our approach to Noumea we noticed a significant change in topography and urban development, with far less tropical vegetation and trees. Residential housing, multi-story buildings and industrial development lined the coastline. There was a myriad of small power craft and what appeared to be ferries traversing from Noumea to a small island situated just off the headland. As we passed there appeared to be a resort of some description located there. Several small fishing boats, kite surfers, windsurfers and kayakers were all making the most of the sunny day and calm sea conditions. The marina of Port Moselle sits within a horseshoe bay, and as we entered the bay we immediately noticed a fair number of anchored and moored monohulls and catamarans, as well as a humongous cruise liner on the other side of the port. 

General Information

Wifi:  Wifi was not available at the marina, so we took a short walk to McDonald’s for coffee and an hour’s free wifi. 

Transport options: These are limited to bus, taxi, Uber and car hire. We walked everywhere so we can’t provide any information about costs or services. There is also a Hop On Hop Off bus but this appeared to only operate when cruise ships were in port.

Shopping: The Port Moselle marina is right next door to a large local market. We were there Saturday through to Monday (local time) and the markets operated Saturday and Sunday for most of the day, on Monday a handful of stalls were open and only for a short time. The market when fully operational sells a variety of fruit and vegetables, breads and pastries, meats, fresh fish, local handicraft, clothing and jewellery. The market was great for reprovisioning particularly fruit and vegetables, and the quality was great. It’s worth noting that the market is really, really crowded when a cruise ship is in port.

A supermarket is located within walking distance of the marina. It is a Carrefour Supermarket operating under the name of Johnston. (We think this might be due to Carrefour’s links to France and recent attempts by New Caledonia to become a fully independent country). Just an aside we flew both the French and New Caledonian courtesy flags whilst in port. Back to the supermarket, turn left as you leave the marina walk passed the market keeping to the pathway which hugs the bay. You will come to the cruise liner section of the port, and the supermarket is located just on the opposite side of the road.

Looking for more shops? Then head to the centre of town. Again, within walking distance of the marina you will find heaps of shops of all sizes, selling everything you could possibly want, with differing levels of quality and price brackets. Chinatown with its own range of shops and restaurants is located here as well. 

Restaurants: A privately run bar/restaurant is located within the marina precinct, McDonalds is a short walk away and directly opposite the marina, other eateries are located in the city centre. We checked out the bar/restaurant at the marina, food was okay but we have had better. We grabbed a coffee at McDonald’s each day and made use of the 1 hour free wifi that came with the coffee.

ATM: you’ll find these in the city centre and also near Johnston’s supermarket where a couple of banks are located.

Chandlery: there isn’t one located at the marina, and we had no need to locate one so we can’t provide any comment here.

During our time here we berthed at Port Moselle Marina, for our review please check out http://seagoddessadventures.com/port-moselle-marina-noumea/ .

In our view Noumea is another city grappling with modernisation in every sense of the word. The city revolves around tourism with two cruise ships arriving and departing back to back in the short time we were there. We are definitely planning a return trip to New Caledonia though we intend to focus our time in the islands surrounding Noumea.

Duration: 14 days

After a tedious morning organising all the administriva associated with the disembarkation of our crew and clearing out, we left Rarotonga around 1400 hours. We encountered our first hiccup as we were leaving when the main halyard wrapped around a spreader as we were raising the mainsail. Fortunately, it worked itself loose and we were able to fully raise the mainsail, set our westerly course and off we headed to Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia.

One of the things we noticed almost immediately was that we both felt far more relaxed sailing by ourselves.  We decided on six hour watches and this worked well for us. There was a high level of trust and confidence in our abilities, and in hindsight if we were to embark on this adventure again we would consider sailing just by ourselves or limiting additional crew to specific legs of the journey. 

During the passage we experienced an interesting mix of weather and sea conditions. Weather ranged from being almost calm to strong squalls, and for the most part we were slowed by a head on current. Sea conditions can only be described as weird. At times the sea was like a millpond and then there were times when the sea was choppy.  But the chop was from multiple directions creating a highly unusual wave effect. Almost like there was a disturbance under the water. 

Our voyage took us passed Tonga and we sailed through the passage between the two main islands at sunrise, just amazing. Apart from two large rocky outcrops (Ile Hunter and Ile Matthew) this would be our only land sighting until Noumea. (As an aside we both commented on the naming of these small volcanic outcrops. Very western and not what we expected in the middle of the Pacific. Perhaps Pacific Islanders have indigenous names which are not charted). From here we changed course at our last waypoint, happy that we were making good progress to Noumea.

And then came our next Woo Hoo moment! Another major milestone and another celebration, west meets east! Day 9 since leaving Rarotonga at 0400 hours, GMT-10 on 1^st December (current ships clock time) we crossed 180 degrees West. We are now counting longitude downwards as we have passed into the “Eastern Zone”.  We have just lost 21 hours going from GMT-10 to GMT+11 (Noumea time). See Peter’s discussion below regarding time zones. NB Today we clocked up a total of 13,000 nautical miles since leaving France, only another 1,500 to go until we reach home!

The remainder of our passage was uneventful though winds were fickle at times and we had to kick in the motors to maintain reasonable speed. We arrived in New Caledonian waters on the 6^th December sailing passed the most gorgeous tropical islands. Definitely planning a return trip to explore these islands and bays one day. Approaching Noumea we had trouble contacting marina staff via VHF i.e. we couldn’t get any response. Eventually we made contact and were assigned a berth on the quarantine dock, denoted with a large yellow cross. We later found out that the marina was full, and this was the last available berth since the marina was actually closed for cyclone season. Click here for more details regarding Noumea http://seagoddessadventures.com/sailing-to-australia-noumea/ and here for details of the marina at Port Moselle  http://seagoddessadventures.com/port-moselle-marina-noumea/ .

A quick word about time zones

One of the interesting issues when travelling across multiple time zones is what time does one use for the ships time? Ship’s time defines log entries as well as watch start and stop times. Peter, as skipper, made the decision to use our last port of call (Rarotonga) as the ship’s time, GMT-10 hours. In effect the ship’s date becomes the ‘working’ date on the boat. For example, when we were approaching Noumea the time on the boat was 0135 hours on Friday morning but 2235 hours Friday night Noumea time, a 21 hour difference. This also has implications for sunrise and sunset according to ship’s time as we experienced sunrise at 0800 hours on more than one occasion. If you mirror our approach it is also important to turn off automatic time zone updates on navigation equipment. From a personal point of view, we didn’t experience any health or other issues in taking this approach. On arrival at port we quickly adjusted to the local time zone, just like one would when flying internationally.

Kia Orana from Rarotonga. This short unplanned stopover in Rarotonga provided an opportunity for some much needed land time. We ‘berthed’ at the commercial harbor, a short walking distance from local markets, supermarkets and amenities. What struck us the most about the island were the people, this is by far the friendliest most welcoming place we have visited in our travels. Government officials, market stall holders, supermarket check out operators, and the locals who stopped at Sea Goddess for a chat or gave us a wave in passing, we were embraced in their openness and warmth. Special thanks and a big shout out to Bill from fisheries who gifted us with a huge bunch of bananas, mangos, lemons and pawpaw. We definitely have plans to return here for a much longer period of time, not only to visit the island of Aitutaki (our plans to visit here were scuttled by sea conditions) but to immerse ourselves in this wonderful culture. 

General Information

Clearing In and Out processes were relatively painless. Clearing in was completed by government officials who visited Sea Goddess.  First up was an inspector from the Department of Health who provided a health clearance certificate, cost $25NZ. A representative from the Department of Immigration and Customs arrived next.  Passports and boat certification details were checked and logged, Peter as skipper had to complete a customs declaration as well as a form stating he was responsible for any crew who left the vessel, Sandra provided details of any controlled drugs on board, and all crew were required to complete an individual ‘passenger’ declaration. There was no charge for the immigration/customs checking in process. Lastly, a biosecurity officer came on board and removed the last of our perishable food, one clove of garlic and a small bag of mixed lettuce. In total the clearing in process took less than an hour. 

There were three ordered steps to the clearing out process. Firstly, we needed to clear out with the port authority, which required payment of harbour fees and later showing the payment receipt to customs.  Next stop was the immigration office, located a short walk from the harbour. Here Peter completed an overall departure form, a departure crew list as well as departure forms for individual crew members. As our crew were disembarking and staying on in Rarotonga, completion of these latter forms were limited to Peter and Sandra. All forms must be stamped and signed before heading to the final stop, customs. Customs is located in the same building as immigration, and Peter had pre-prepared as much of the required forms as he could.  These were checked by the customs officer, a departure time was provided by Peter, and payment of fees completed.  Fees included Customs Fee – Enter and Clear $57.20NZ and a Departure Tax $73.40NZ per person. An official ‘Certificate of Clearance Small Vessel’ was provided by Customs, which we will need to present at our next port of call, Noumea.

Wifi: We were unable to locate any cafes etc. that offered free wifi. Best option is to head to Bluesky which offers a range of prepaid wifi options for a fee. Given the short duration of our stay we opted for a 3 day pass $5.00(NZ) for 200MB. Postal services are also offered within this facility.

Transport options: These are limited to bus, taxi, hire car, scooters or bikes. There is a single road that traverses the outer perimeter of the island. Travel time non stop by car, motor bike or scooter is around 30 minutes. A local bus also traverses this route, and we planned on doing the loop by bus on Day 2 of our stay, unfortunately our time was swallowed up by formalities and administrivia associated with disembarkation of crew.  Bicycle hire appeared to be a popular option, electric and grunt options are available. (Given the road incline I know which one I’d be choosing!)

Shopping: Lots of options are available a short walk from the harbour. Best idea is to grab a free map of Rarotonga which also includes a host of coupons. Here are our tips. Turn left on leaving the harbour for Punanga Nui Market, open Saturdays from 0800 – 1200, selling a range of fruit, vegetables, clothing, and souvenirs. We arrived on a Thursday and left on a Friday, and a small selection of stalls and eateries were open on both days. Thursday night is foodie night, with a range of ‘street’ foods and eateries catering to a range of tastes. There is also an ATM within the market grounds, a fee of $5.00NZ is charged for all withdrawals. (Additional ATMs as well as banking facilities are available in the main street). Further down the main street, and running parallel to the coastline, there were a number of marquees set up in a large grassed area. Mostly selling local crafts and souvenirs. 

Additionally, a range of shops selling a variety of goods line the main street as well as some side streets leading off the main street. Two large supermarkets are located on the main thoroughfare including CITC Supermarket (turn right on exiting the harbour, and within easy walking distance from the harbour) and Foodland (turn left on exiting the harbour). Prime Foods, another supermarket, is located off the main thoroughfare (turn left on exiting the harbor, tucked behind the cathedral). We reprovisioned at the CITC Supermarket and found everything we needed, including some Australian treats which were a welcome addition to our trolley. Prices were in New Zealand dollars, and like most islands we have visited thus far food particularly perishables tend to be expensive.

Restaurants: For a small island, Rarotonga is awash with restaurants, cafes, takeaway outlets and street food stalls. Whatever style of eating and/or price point you are looking for you will find it here. We ate out twice and the food was well cooked, seasoned and delicious.

The island of Rarotonga might be small in size but it has a giant heart, definitely worth a visit or in our case a revisit.  Click here for more information about Avatiu Harbour http://seagoddessadventures.com/avatiu-harbour-cook-islands/ .

Duration: 5.5 days

Our timeframe for the planned journey from Les Sable d’Olonne (France) to Brisbane Australia was five months, our anticipated arrived being somewhere around the 25^th November. With the number of delays we experienced, in the main due to equipment failures, we were aware that unless we sailed straight through with no stops our estimated time of arrival in Brisbane was not going to happen. Realistically at this stage mid December was most likely, and that would mean leaving three planned Pacific island stops off our itinerary.  We had already foregone a stop in the Marquesas, with Nuie and Fiji now also off the list. Whilst we were in Papeete, Peter contacted his boss at home and arranged additional leave until Monday 15^th December. So, we now had a definitive deadline that we needed to meet, and whilst all the vagaries associated with sailing were still in play, this timeframe was doable. We would also need to limit our time in the last two stops, the Cook Islands and New Caledonia.

With a couple of major repairs completed and the boat reprovisioned, we departed Papeete at 1800 hours on Friday 15^th November. The first night was ‘interesting’ a shifting wind direction and strength until we had passed the island of Moorea, which is situated just west of Tahiti. Once passed the island we made steady 6 – 7 knots overnight, and on Saturday through to Sunday morning we again experienced fickle winds which played havoc with our course. As a result, we decided to motor/sail to maintain boat speed and at this stage looked to arrive in Aitutaki, our destination, around Wednesday lunchtime. (Aitutaki which is part of the Cook Island group, is a beautiful atoll just perfect for swimming, snorkeling and chilling out). We actually arrived a day earlier than expected, on Tuesday 19^th November around 2200 hours and as the channel is very narrow and unlit we drifted overnight down the coast until early morning when we could get a better visual. Unfortunately, when we arrived there was a significant swell, breaking across the channel entrance and surrounding reefs, which didn’t look as though it was abating any time soon. As a consequence, Peter decided to make way for Rarotonga, a short one day sail south. We arrived and docked in Rarotonga, Avatiu Harbour, at 0800 hours the next day. 

Just an additional note regarding Avatiu Harbour. This is a commercial port with high concrete wharves and you will be required to dock Mediterranean style. Access to the wharf from the boat is via ladder which at times was extremely tricky. More importantly, if there is any form of a northerly swell you are likely to sustain damage. Even with the anchor set, four stern and two back spring lines and our largest fenders across each transom, we sustained damage to the swim ladder and transom on the starboard side.

Lastly at Rarotonga we said ‘Farewell’ to both remaining crew members and wished them safe travels. Going forward, and for the first time we would sail the final two legs of this amazing adventure as a couple. We were excited at the prospect of fully taking the reins so to speak and sailing into Australian waters in less than a month’s time.

Duration:  35.5 days

Whilst we anticipated the Atlantic crossing to be particularly challenging from a weather perspective, we anticipated the Pacific crossing to be just as challenging from a distance perspective. Panama City to the Marquesas is approximately 5,000 nautical miles. Our preparation centred around equipment checks, additional fuel, drinking water, and provisioning for four adults. The latter was particularly challenging as the dual Vitrifrigio freezers remained unusable. 

As we reflect back on this leg of our adventure, we are reminded of the famous line from the Forest Gump movie, ‘Life is like a box of chocolates, you’re never sure what your going to get’. When we replace the word ‘life’ with ‘ocean sailing’ these words are so, so true.

On the 9^th of October we departed Panama City on a beautiful clear day. We initially made our way south passing an array of tankers and cargo vessels anchored offshore waiting to transit the canal; to offload their cargo at the nearby port facilities, or perhaps waiting for a shipment before moving on. Of particular concern during the first few hours was the amount and type of debris floating in the sea and moving with the tide. Huge logs, tree branches and random pieces of wood, along with all sorts of domestic rubbish from cans and bottles to plastic spoons and containers. During this time at least one crew member was at the bow to notify Peter, at the helm, of what was coming, its position and ‘hit’ probability. As we sailed on beyond the Panama coastline and outlying islands, the assigned watch continued to keep a look out. Though we acknowledge the difficulty of doing so during nighttime watches. Day 2 and the debris of all shapes and sizes just kept coming, the floating logs were our main concern, fortunately there were no major dramas and we were able to manouvre so that most floated by, and those we missed went straight underneath, between the two hulls. 

Day 2 there was also much excitement of a different kind, the blow of a passing whale about 500 metres off our starboard bow heading north. We were hoping it might breach but that wasn’t to be. Later that evening, around 2100 hours and on Peter’s watch, an unidentified object with a flashing strobe light (about 2 metres above the water line) moved at speed about ½ a nautical mile away on our starboard side. On discussing the incident the next day, given the speed, position and type of light we reckon it was most likely a submarine periscope but will never know for sure. 

Day 7 and the first of what was to be a series of equipment challenges occurred. The water maker would not work and as such we could not replenish the water in the onboard tank. Peter tried a couple of quick fixes with no success and things got really serious really quickly. We had 280 litres of bottled drinking water onboard and the water tank was roughly ¾ full. Given these circumstances and our projected sail time to the Marquesas Peter made the call to alter course, divert to the Galapagos Islands and obtain additional water supplies. For more discussion about this ongoing issue and how we managed water usage for the remainder of this passage click here http://seagoddessadventures.com/warranty-woes-watermaker/

One of the standing jokes on board was that if something was going to happen on watch it would most likely happen on Sandra’s watch. A prime example was a visit by an unidentified ship at 0330 hours.  Sandra saw it approaching at speed with flood lights blazing on its fore, starboard and port decks. It then slowed and drifted about two nautical miles off our starboard quarter. Sandra roused Peter from bed, and we both sat in the cockpit waiting to see what would happen. Given the equipment silhouettes we could see the ship was probably naval.  Unlike the previous visit by a naval ship, this ship did not make radio contact with us and in turn we did not initiate any contact. We maintained our set course, our speed and made no changes to our sail plan. After about 15 minutes of tagging us, the vessel turned and headed off in a westerly direction. Bizarre!  Our best guess is that they were checking us out and we checked out okay. 

Day 10 saw us passing the first of the Galapagos Islands – flat brown and dry.  I guess we were expecting something a bit ‘more’. Well we didn’t have to wait long because later that night, surrounded by heaps of tourist and fishing vessels we crossed the equator at 0018 hours (Day 11). The champagne, saved for this very occasion, was popped and we all enjoyed a glass. Such a special milestone for Sea Goddess, the two of us and our crew – truly unforgettable. 

Celebrations over and we continued our journey to Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz, arriving at 1400 hours. Prior to our arrival Peter used VHF Channel 16 to alert port authorities to our emergency and arrival. (Entering Galapagos Island waters and/or mooring must be prearranged with and permission granted from island authorities. Be aware you will need to source a local agent to oversee this process. You can enter in emergency situations, such as ours, but even in these instances you will need to engage a local agent. Also note that in such emergencies your position will be watched and your time in Galapagian waters will be strictly limited i.e. you will be given a specific departure time). 

In our case we arrived on a Saturday when relevant local authorities were not at work, however on weekends VHF channels are monitored by a local agent who contacted us via radio. We explained our situation and what we required i.e. to refill the boat’s water tank, purchase more drinking water and replenish perishable foods. We were directed to anchor in the bay of Puerto Ayora, surrounded by a Celebrity X cruise liner, Mary Ann a gorgeous ketch, and a number of other power and sailing vessels. A steady stream of water taxis zipped back and forth from the cruise liner to the taxi wharf. Shortly after our arrival we were joined on board by our agent Ronny Sanchez and a member of the Ecuadorian police force (officiating in lieu of a port authority officer). Ronny, who spoke fluent English, handled all documentary and processing requirements.  Explaining to the police officer the nature of our emergency and our request for a short lay over. 

We provided Ronny with a range of documents including but not limited to boat registration/ certification, crew list, and crew passports as well as photocopies of these documents. Peter then showed the Officer the malfunctioning water maker and the tank meter which showed the current water level. Ronny took photographs of the equipment via his mobile phone. After much discussion between Ronny and Officer Ruiz, Ronny provide the following information to us:

• He would arrange 150 litres of drinking water to be delivered us by boat in about 1 ½ hours time;
• He would also bring officially stamped documentation to us at this time;
• We were granted permission to disembark and access facilities and amenities within the town, and
• We were required to up anchor and leave Puerto Ayora by 1730 hours.

Cost of these services:

• $125US agent fee,
• $75US for provision and delivery of water, and
• $50US for documentation processing fee.

From the initial radio call to liaising with the police officer, organising the delivery of water and processing of all required documentation Ronny was incredibly professional and helpful. If you are planning a trip to Galapagos Islands or like us get into difficulty, we can highly recommend his services. Ronny’s contact details are as follows: Ronny Sanchez, phone +593 96 961 8925, VHF Channel 74, or email info@viajeagalapagos.com

After completing the initial formalities Peter, Sandra and Patrick hailed a water taxi and rode the short distance to the taxi wharf (cost $1US per person/per trip). Gifford stayed on board in case the water arrived earlier than anticipated. Once on land we headed to a café/restaurant for a non-pasta non-rice based meal, while Patrick tracked down somewhere to shower. With our hunger sated we got some cash out from one of the two ATM’s located next to a small supermarket on the main street. Replenishing our food stocks was next, particularly fruit, vegetables, deli meats and bread. There wasn’t a great selection of fruit and vegetables on offer and quality was poor, so we picked what we could. As water rationing would still be in place we bought large packets of baby wipes for everyone to use in lieu of showering. Not ideal, but conserving water was critical. As we returned to Sea Goddess we noted that a boat with a large water tank was rafted up alongside, Ronny was also on board and overseeing the water transfer to the onboard tank and as many buckets and empty 5 litre bottles that we could find. We swapped places with Gifford so that he could have some shore time. At 1730 with everyone back onboard and vessel preparations completed we departed Puerto Ayora and headed west. 

One of the major consequences of repeated equipment failures over the course of our journey has been the associated time delays, and as a result of this diversion to Galapagos Peter made the tough decision to bypass the Marquesas islands and head direct to Tahiti. 

Winds continued to be fickle and sail management became critical to our progress. We even got the spinnaker out for the first time, but it was the Code 0 that time and time again did the heavy lifting. Over Day 12 and 13, we smashed our best sailing distances thus far.  On Day 12 we covered 189 nautical miles and on Day 13 194 nautical miles. The Code 0 together with the mainsail, the latter to give us stability, was awesome. Winds were 15-17 knots at times with 1 metre seas and we peaked at 12 nautical miles per hour. 

Day 18 and we continued to make good progress in a slight south westerly direction, then we turned southward towards Papeete in Tahiti. The south east trades were working in our favour again at 15–20 knots. Day 20 and another equipment failure strikes, this time the generator wouldn’t start. Peter completed a number of basic checks, with no joy. Yet another email was logged with The Multihull Group and Windcraft (the TMG warranty arm) regarding this new issue, in the meantime we ran the engines to charge onboard batteries. So to date we have a freezer not working, a water maker not working and now a generator not working. For more discussion about the generator issue click on the following link http://seagoddessadventures.com/warranty-woes-onan-generator/ .

It’s the 5^th November and Day 28 of the Pacific crossing, and the last few days have been interesting. Firstly our route took us through a deep sea fishing zone, with buoys marking either fishing nets or lines on either side of our course. Most of these were marked/fitted with an Automated Identification System (AIS) transmitters so we could see them on our electronic chart and manouvre to avoid them. However a number of these buoys were not transmitting and we missed some by mere metres. It is amazing to think that even being surrounded by an ocean of water we miss an object by only such a short distance. During the day we kept careful lookout, but at night it was a case of just hoping we did not bump into any unidentified ones. Most of the fishing appears to be done by Chinese or Taiwanese vessels.  We did spot a couple of ‘mother ships’ as we passed through. The fishing area we sailed through spanned approximately 500 nautical miles. Then the very next day we were literally ‘buzzed’ by a small jet. It passed us about 10 metres above sea level and was gone before we could identify it. We guess it was a patrol plane for the fishing zone, but once again we will never know. It also rained for the first time in a long time and boy did we make the most of it. Standing on the stern transom Sandra washed her hair and the guys soaped up for a quick wash. We also managed to catch some rainwater with some strategically placed buckets. Lastly on another positive note, we reached two significant distance milestones today, 10000 nautical miles since we left France and 4000 nautical miles since we left Panama. That is a very long way!  Lots more sailing ahead, the most immediate being 820 nautical miles to Tahiti.

One of the things that might be of interest is what did we do all day? Well each of us had 2 x 4 hour watches which accounted for 8 hours each day.  Our responsibilities during these watches included:

• Keeping a visual watch for any sea vessels and/or floating debris.

Not all recreational vessels have AIS installed, as such these vessels will not show up on electronic charts.  Furthermore, fishing vessels have been known to switch off their AIS. Why? Not sure, perhaps to ‘hide’ their key fishing spots. In terms of floating debris, this could be anything from shipping containers to large logs.

• Ensuring we remain on course;
• Monitoring wind and sea conditions;
• Trimming and/or deploying sails;
• Responding to any alarms  (Occasionally the autopilot would have a bit of a hissy fit and would require a reset), and
• Maintaining the Vessel Log on an hourly basis.

Handwritten, the Vessel Log allowed us to track our progress over time, and can also be used for insurance, warranty and legal purposes. Each day the date, last port, destination port and names of crew were noted on the relevant page. Each hour the following information was documented – our bearing; type of power i.e. sail, motor or motor/sail; wind direction and force; sea state, weather/visibility; distance travelled (in that hour), total distance travelled; position i.e. latitude and longitude; and engine hours if relevant. The Log also included a comments section where we noted any boat issues, repairs carried out, interesting bird and sea life, time of docking or departure and so on. Really a diary of events and a record of our voyage. I’m sure we will look back on this in future years and reminisce about the various stages and days of our adventure. Just an additional point, since returning to Australia we continue to maintain the Sea Goddess Log even for local coastal sailing.

Apart from ‘watches’ there were various ways and activities to pass the time. Journalling; electronic, card and board games; reading; chatting; watching pre-downloaded movies; listening to music; preparing meals; sunbathing; assisting with sail management and sleeping. Sandra chose to start a French language course via podcast, and we learnt a lot about the stars and constellations of the northern and southern hemispheres from one of our crew. It was all pretty chilled.

Day 34 and the challenges just keep coming. Our main halyard snapped and rather than sail on we decided take a detour and try to fix it. First task was to divert to an atoll next to Arutua where we could be on the leeward side of the atoll and sheltered as much as possible from the waves. Patrick, one of our brave crew volunteered to go up the mast, while we drifted in calmer waters. We couldn’t repair the halyard, so decided to try the topping lift as a halyard which worked fine for several hours only to snap and the mainsail collapsed at 0500, ugh another issue! Luckily no damage occurred to the mainsail or Sea Goddess. As an aside, while Patrick was up the mast he noticed that the Code 0 halyard was also significantly damaged due to chafing. As a result, we didn’t use the Code 0 going forward and we couldn’t use the mainsail for the remainder of the sail to Tahiti. So we put out the jib and motor sailed, expecting to arrive in Papeete during the early morning hours of Wednesday 13^th November. We have created a separate blog related to the rigging issues we experienced throughout the trip, to read more http://seagoddessadventures.com/sea-goddess-rigging-failures/ .

Day 35 0500 ships time, 0100 Tahiti time and the island was on the horizon. We arrived just as it was getting light, a full moon was still up and lighting a gorgeous pathway across the rippling waves. It’s been 35.5 days at sea, a very long trip of over 5000 nautical miles or 9300km, with an average speed of 6.1 knots. Peter pre-booked a berth at Marina Taina, on the northwest side of the island. Access to the marina was via a channel from the main harbour which runs between the mainland and a reef. The channel also runs under the flight path to Papeete Airport and closely passes the end of the airport runway. As a result we had to contact Papeete Port Control and gain permission to approach and enter the channel, and contact Port Control again once we reached the end of the runway for permission to proceed to the marina.

Also note that marina options and berthing opportunities are extremely limited (both marinas in Tahiti are well utilised and booked out by locals). Anchorage was also available on the waters surrounding Marina Taina, if you choose this option be aware that there is a daily fee incurred for dinghy access and use of marina facilities by moored yachts. Also note that if you require boat repairs then Marina Taina is the best option, since Marina Papeete does not allow contractors to work in the marina. For us Marina Taina was the best option even though we could only secure a berth for two nights. During this time Peter and Sandra solely focused on ensuring all essential repairs were completed (we were successful with the generator and rigging, but not with the water maker). 

One of the most disappointing parts of the journey thus far has been the flow on effect of equipment failures. For the most part this resulted in both of us being tied to the boat while we were in port. Rather than exploring the amazing places we visited, much of our time was spent chasing warranty issues, liaising with repair crews, waiting for repair crews and of course someone had to be onboard when they arrived. As with some other ports, there was really no opportunity to explore the island of Tahiti so unfortunately we can’t provide a description for you. However, we can provide a comprehensive review of Marina Taina and for this review please click here http://seagoddessadventures.com/france-to-australia-marina-taina/ .

Check out this guy on his outrigger who rode our wake as we left Tahiti. We did shout out that we were on our way to Australia, that gained us a smile!

Panama City is a city in transition, one caught between modern contemporary culture and emergence from almost third world status.  The remnants of US influence and US military can be readily seen in the buildings and other structures within and surrounding the city.  As we drove around, in taxis and private Uber cars, our drivers were more than happy to give us a potted history of Panama, Panama City, various buildings and monuments.  The main thoroughfare adjacent to Flamenco Marina hugs the coastline and provides gorgeous views of the ocean and city skyline.  The ‘colourful’ rooftop of the Museum of Diversity is somewhat out of place with its immediate surrounds and gives an indication of the modernistic direction of the city.  Close by is the main stadium and concert hall, which was being demolished while we were there, with plans to build a ‘bigger and better’ venue underway.  The city centre houses the government, business and banking offices, while shopping malls, strip shops and local markets are scattered in various locations surrounding the city.  A Hop On Hop Off tourist bus is an easy way of visiting key city highlights including the Panama Canal visitor’s centre.  Whilst ferries to neighbouring islands can be accessed at the terminal adjacent to Flamenco Bay Marina.

General Information

Wifi: Peter and Sandra didn’t have an international data plan and relied on the marina based wifi which was included in marina fees.  Reception was good for our emails and general day to day requirements, we didn’t attempt to download or stream large amounts of data so can’t comment on this. 

Transport options: All the usual modes of transport to get around town are available: bus, taxi, car hire and Uber.  Public bus stops are located directly outside the two main marinas, a travel card with uploaded credit is required.  We initially opted for taxis to get around.  Be mindful though, the cleanliness and maintenance of taxis vary, and importantly taxis do not have meters and we would advise you to negotiate the fare prior to getting into the cab.  A couple of days into our stay we were waiting for a cab outside Flamenco Marina, when a new SUV pulled up alongside and the driver asked if we were looking for a taxi and where would we like to go.  We were headed for the nearest post office and also a company called Tropigas which supplied and refilled bottled gas cylinders.  Israel, our driver, not only drove us where we needed to go, he waited for us to conclude our business, and interpreted for Peter at the gas place.  From this point on we exclusively used Israel for all our transport needs, contacting him the day before or morning of our travel and arranging a pick up time at the marina.  Israel speaks fluent English, has great local knowledge, is kind and well mannered and consistently went the extra mile for us.  We have no hesitation in highly recommending his services to anyone travelling to Panama City for business or pleasure.  Israel is associated with Uber, but also does private work such as ours.  He is available for both short and long term work, having just completed an exclusive 5 day gig for a family visiting Panama.  If you would like Israel’s contact details just email Sandra, info@seagoddessadventures.com

Shopping: One thing we learnt about Panamanians is they love to shop, and with so many shopping precincts, strip shops and markets Panama City didn’t disappoint. 

Two shopping options are within the Flamenco Marina complex.  A grocery shop stocking fresh bread, a limited range of frozen goods including meat, canned and packaged goods, fruit and vegetables, beer, wine, spirits and sodas is located adjacent to the marina car park.  There is also a small cluster of shops including a duty free store, sweet shop and small convenience store situated behind the marina (near the ferry terminal).  On exiting the marina turn right and about a kilometre walk away is a small group of shops including but not limited to bicycle and inline skate hire businesses, a bar/restaurant, ice creamery, and souvenir shop.  As you travel around Panama City you will also find local markets selling clothing, jewellery, small and large straw/cane baskets and the like dotted around the city.  Street sellers hoping to entice you to buy bananas, corn chips and other goods will be out and about while stationary at traffic lights.

We found Allbrook Mall, a large shopping centre a bus/taxi/Uber ride away, had everything we needed in the one place.  Department stores, 24 hour supermarket, two hardware stores, food court, specialty shops as well as a cinema complex.  We did our provision shop here at Super99, and with three trolley loads overflowing with groceries, fruit, vegetables and meat as well as 60 x 5litre bottles of drinking water we have no doubt we were their best customers that day.  

Restaurants/Bars:  Within the marina complex there were two areas that appear to be used as a restaurant, bar or similar but these were totally empty for the duration of our stay.  Two privately owned restaurants/bars are located adjacent to the marina and are open from mid morning till late, both offer a good range of menu options.  Beyond the marina, tourists and locals are spoilt for choice, with a large range of restaurants, cafes, take away shops and bars on offer.  If you are keen on Asian food, check out Chinatown located near the city centre. 

A couple of our crew caught a taxi and checked out the late night bar scene which is popular here and tends to be centralised in the old part of the city.  Here are some of their thoughts.  Some bars are more upmarket than others and attract a different clientele.  Spanish music is the predominant music genre with dancing in some bars and not in others.  Alcoholic drinks are expensive when compared to prices back home.  Be sure to check your tab at the end of the night, one crew member got charged for a top shelf brand of drink that he didn’t order. 

Post Office: in the city centre.  

Banks and ATM’s: are located in the city centre and shopping malls.

Chandlery: there are four small chandleries on site at Flamenco Marina. 

To conclude, Panama City is a city on the move, modernisation is well underway. Fortunately there remains pockets of traditional culture – the people, cuisine, music, dance and markets. A wonderful eclectic mix.

From a yachtie perspective, the city has an array of services, facilities and shops commensurate with any large city, and was a great place to prepare and reprovision prior to embarking on our longest sailing leg, crossing the Pacific Ocean.

For our review of Flamenco Marina click the following link http://seagoddessadventures.com/flamenco-marina-panama-city/

Appointing an Agent

Firstly, it is not compulsory to appoint an agent to assist with Panama Canal formalities and preparations.  However in our view there are major disadvantages to doing so without locally based assistance, and these include but are not limited to:

• whilst refundable, there is an upfront bond payment of $800US in cash to Citibank (not required if you appoint an agent);
• the hassle of sourcing additional fenders and appropriate mooring lines for the canal crossing (supplied by our agent);
• coordinating and liaising with the canal assigned measurer (completed by our agent in a timely manner);
• liaising with canal staff and officials (all taken care of by our agent), and
• there is often a longer wait time prior to transit (we met our agent on Monday and we transited the first set of locks on Wednesday).

We were always going to appoint an agent, our task was finding one that was reliable and reasonably priced.  To this end and prior to leaving Martinique Peter conducted an internet search of agents and checked out reviews on Noonsite.  He then contacted four agents via email, two of which replied in a prompt manner.  Of the two who replied we selected and appointed Erick A. Galvez (email Erick.galvez@hotmail.com).  Erick’s quote detailed all the services we required at a reasonable cost.  From this point on Erick and his associate James kept in regular email or face to face contact with us.

On Monday the day after we arrived in Colon, James visited us and explained the preparatory, transition and post transition stages of the canal crossing in great detail and in a way we could all understand.  Later that same morning saw the arrival of the ‘measurer’ who took details of boat ownership and certification, and checked the boat length and width.  James also joined us for this meeting.  The measurer provided four options for the transit which Peter and Sandra as owners could agree to or refuse. 

• Option 1 – Our boat transiting on its own with a canal appointed pilot/advisor onboard plus four line handlers required onboard managing the lines. (Agreed)
• Option 2 – Our boat rafted to another or two other sailing/power vessels, with a canal appointed pilot/advisor onboard plus four line handlers required onboard managing the lines. (Agreed)
• Option 3 – Our boat moved in a series of tie ups along the wall of the canal with a canal appointed pilot/advisor onboard plus four line handlers required onboard managing the lines. (That would be a No).
• Option 4 – Our boat rafted to a tug boat, the latter moved in a series of tie ups along the wall of the canal with a canal appointed pilot/advisor onboard plus four line handlers required onboard managing the lines. We weren’t sure about the implications of this last option.  Sandra happened to look up and caught James’ eye who just slightly shook his head to indicate a No.  Sandra had no hesitation in giving a No response, and that took care of that option.

As an additional service James accompanied all of us to the immigration office and assisted by speaking in Spanish to the officer.  His presence and involvement certainly expedited the process, which was awesome.

Later that day James returned with a number of large ball fenders and four massive nylon mooring lines (both in length and thickness) to be used during the transition.  He also let us know that we were scheduled to transit the first part of the canal on Wednesday evening, moor overnight in the lake, and complete the transition on Thursday morning.  Not absolutely ideal as we were hoping to fully transit during daylight hours, but with the next available slot not until the following Sunday or Monday we were more than happy to take what was on offer.  And the excellent service from Erick and James just kept coming.  As Patrick and Sandra were waiting for the minibus to get to the shopping centre in central Colon, James stopped his car, called us over and  drove out of his way to take us to the shops.  On the way, he pointed out various buildings of interest, and we gained lots of information about Colon and life here. 

Wednesday 2^nd October, the big day arrived and after refueling we departed Shelter Bay Marina and anchored in the west bay, just a short distance from the marina at the designated time of 1300 hours (N9^o 22’ W79^o 56’).  We then contacted Christobel Signal Station to advise that we were at the required position, and were informed that the canal advisor/pilot would join us at 1700 hours.  When Jorge, our advisor/pilot joined us, he advised that we would be following a cargo ship, Sumaq Queen, though the first set of locks to Lake Gotun.  We would then moor on the lake overnight, and transit the second set of locks on Thursday morning.  The supplied mooring lines were attached to cleats at each bow and stern, and a bow line with a one metre loop was created at the other end.  This looped end would be used by the canal rope handlers.

At 1740 hours we began our journey, following Sumaq Queen, towards the canal and the first of three gated locks.  Each rope was to be worked by a member of our crew, while Peter took the helm and Jorge provided instructions to all of us.  Once we reached the first set of locks two canal rope handlers took up station on the port side, one at the bow and one at the stern.  This was repeated on the starboard side.  Keeping a close eye on the landing area so as not to get hit, a thin rope line with a weighted ball of rope at the end was thrown onboard Sea Goddess.  We each gathered up the balled rope end and tied it securely to the bow line of the mooring rope.  The canal rope handlers then pulled in the thin rope and the attached mooring line.  The bow line was then placed over a huge bollard, the lock gates were closed and the water started to rise.

At this point the cargo vessel, Sumaq Queen, was approximately 30 metres in front of us.  Once the water reached the required level, the canal rope handlers took the bow line off the bollard, Peter put both engines into forward and the canal handlers started walking forward with the rope.  Our job at the four points of the boat was to reel in the excess mooring line at the cleat and then lock it off.  It was only a matter of a few minutes into this process when things started going downhill fast.  The cargo vessel had engaged its engines which in turn created a significant backwash and current.  As a result Peter struggled to control our vessel and we were positioned askew to the canal walls.  The force and momentum of the current pushed Sea Goddess forward and starboard, if it weren’t for the additional fenders and Sandra moving the front fender forward, the bow would have hit the canal wall with force.  Then our boat turned and it was the stern (starboard side) that was in danger of being smashed into the wall.  It was Andreas’ turn to ensure no damage occurred.  As the cargo vessel moved forward with assistance from the locomotives the backwash and current settled, Peter was able to regain control and we also advanced with the rope handlers walking alongside.  It was a difficult and intense few minutes.  Jorge, the assigned advisor/pilot, told Peter that large ships such as that ahead are not permitted to use their ship’s engines whilst in the canal.  The ships are moved along by thick wire cables attached to the four points of the vessel and to four locomotives who do the grunt work and move the ship forward.  And then the reasons why the engines were used in this instance became clearer.

Prior to entering the second lock, Jorge contacted the canal advisor/pilot on board Sumaq Queen requesting that the engines not be used in the next two locks.  The captain of this vessel refused this request, that the ship’s engines would continue to be engaged.  In response Jorge advised us to enter Locks 2 and 3 late, closer to the gate and further back from Sumaq Queen.  We maintained tight lines from the cleats to the corresponding four bollards until the cargo vessel had moved forward and the backwash and current had settled.  Whilst we still experienced some turbulence, it was certainly reduced and we were able to maintain better control of Sea Goddess.  On exiting Lock 3, the final lock of the day, we then motored partway across Lake Gotun to arrive at one of three available mooring buoys.  It was pitch black, and we used torches, the stern light and even the anchor light to see where we were going and what we were doing.  The buoy we were directed to already had a yacht tied up to it, and Peter slowly manouvered Sea Goddess alongside, dodging a large floating docking platform nearby.

One of our crew jumped onto the buoy and secured a line.  Unfortunately, our arrival woke up our neighbours, who were really great about it all and were happy to help by using some additional lines to secure us in place.  An official canal boat then arrived to pick up Jorge, who advised us to be ready to depart for Stage 2 of the transition at 0700 the next morning.  It was now 2150 hours and we were all hungry, as well as mentally and physically exhausted.  While a couple of us took care of the hundred or so crane/green flies that had landed in the cockpit and saloon, the others threw together some dinner which we scarfed down and then headed to bed for some much needed sleep.

We were all up early the next day and welcomed Juan-Carlos our canal advisor/pilot on board for the next stage.  Jorge had provided a handover to him so he was aware of the issues we experienced last night and assured us today’s section would be easier for two reasons.  Firstly, a cargo vessel would follow us into each of the three locks so no probability of backwash-current issues, and the transition would be smoother as the water falls in each lock.  But first we had to get there. 

At 0730 we farewelled our neighbours and traversed the remainder of Lake Gotun under motor.  The lake itself is lovely and surrounded by lush green foliage.  Juan-Carlos provided us with an account of how the lake was built, pointed out occasional landing spots dotted along the way, some of which are used by the US and Panamian military for various military exercises, and told us about the indigenous community that continue to live as they have done for many years within the hills.  Along the way we were passed by a myriad of cargo vessels, tankers and even the cruise liner ‘Island Princess’, all headed for the Atlantic Ocean.  For the fully laden gas tanker Juan-Carlos instructed Peter to reduce power to both engines and manouvre our boat as close to land as possible.  Just an added precaution to avoid any collision! 

At 1200 we tied up in Lock 1, and awaited the arrival of our companion ship, Dyna Pure.  It was quite disconcerting to see this huge vessel being pulled by four locomotives slowly moving towards us, coming to rest about 40 metres off our stern.  Check out the video below.  Dyna Pure also had a massive rusty ding on her bow, which got the jokes rolling (talk about black humour). 

The line procedure within each of the three gated locks was exactly the same as the previous night, the only difference being the cargo ship was behind us and that the water fell as opposed to rising.  Settling into the second chamber of the Miraflores locks, the last of the locks, we were flanked by two buildings.  A traditional administration type building on the starboard side with ‘Miraflores Locks Panama Canal 1913’ emblazoned above the doorway and a two storey modern visitor’s centre on the port side complete with at least a hundred people snapping away on their cameras.  It would have been quite a sight to see with Sea Goddess dwarfed by a towering cargo vessel.  (If you plan to transit the canal, don’t forget to tell your relatives and friends to access the live camera feed via the internet).  From this lock we got a partial view of the new canal, built to accommodate larger vessels, we could just see the top structure of a huge cargo vessel about to exit the new section of the canal.

Finally the water receded and the lock gates opened and we motored our way along the last section of canal channel to the Pacific Ocean.  We continued onwards passing port facilities with humongous cranes, then under the Bridge of the America’s which spans the Pacific sides of the canal where we slowed and drifted.  From here we had an uninterrupted view of the Panama City skyline, which was impressive.  An official canal boat approached and Juan-Carlos disembarked.  At this point another smaller boat approached from our port side with James and another guy on board, and we handed over the supplied mooring lines and additional fenders.  As pre-arranged we also passed over $12US in cash to pay the boat owner.  After farewelling James and his mate we headed onto Panama City for a few days lay over at our pre-arranged marina berth.

For those who may be interested, here is our timeline for the second stage:

0730:  Departed mooring at Lake Gotun

1200:  Tied up Lock 1 – Pedro Miguel (awaiting companion ship for transit)

1400:  Tied up Lock 2 Chamber 1- Miraflores (just by the visitor’s centre)

1510: Tied up Lock 2 Chamber 2 – Miraflores (just passed the visitor’s centre)

1605: Advisor/pilot disembarked

1700: Berthed at Flamenco Marina (Isla Flamenco)

Many thanks to our agent Erick Galvez and his associate James for ensuring all arrangements for the canal crossing were completed comprehensively and expediently.  We have no hesitation in recommending Erick’s services to others who may be undertaking this trip.  Thanks also to our canal advisors/pilots, Jorge and Juan-Carlos, for your professionalism and your willingness to go the extra mile on our behalf. 

This awesome photograph of Sea Goddess ‘sitting’ in the last lock of the canal, with the vessel Dyna Pure just about to enter the lock in the background, was taken by the Canal camera just adjacent to the visitors centre.

Our stay in Colon was an interim one, providing an opportunity to rest and relax after a relatively long sail and a waiting point until we received notification of our schedule to transit the Panama Canal. 

The main town of Colon is about a 30 – 45 minute drive from Shelter Bay Marina.  We caught a lift with one of the locals, and initially we were dodging lots of pot holes as the road to the marina is in a sad state of disrepair.  Empty and trashed residential houses, remnants of previous US officer quarters, line this section of road.  Eventually we reached a checkpoint staffed by a Panamanian military guard and another official.  With our local driver we were waved through, and once passed this point the state of the road improved (well relative to the other side of the checkpoint).  Heavy vegetation with pools of stagnant water hugged both sides of the road.  We were grateful not to be walking or cycling, as we would have been eaten alive by mosquitoes. 

We crossed the newly opened Atlantic Bridge which spans the Atlantic entrance to the canal, and drove through the outskirts of central Colon.  (Prior to bridge construction the only way to cross the Atlantic entrance was via a one hour ferry ride).  The further we drove the more housing, shops and take away eateries we saw.  We passed a couple of gated communities where the housing was far superior to that outside.  Our friendly driver dropped us off at a bus stop next to pedestrian overpass which crossed the highway to the main shopping centre. Prior to getting out the car, he warned us not to venture beyond the centre as it was unsafe.  We made our way across the overpass, then a major railway line until we reached the back of the shopping centre.  As we did so, we were met with piles of litter and junk.  Not sure where all the money from the canal is going, but they sure could use some for a good clean up. 

The shopping centre is much larger than we expected with a myriad of shops including clothing, furniture, electrical, hardware, mobile phone services and accessories, supermarket, restaurants and fast food outlets. There were also a number of stalls set up on the pathways surrounding the shopping centre selling all sorts of random goods from toys to DVDs to sunglasses. Our main focus was Rays supermarket, and we headed here to stock up on groceries, fruit and vegetables for the short passage to Panama City via the canal.  We didn’t have a ride back to the marina and were anticipating an expensive car ride, but luckily we spotted some cruisers from the marina who told us where to pick up the free marina bus.  So with our goodies in hand, we headed for the bus and the marina.

General Information

Wifi:  Free wifi is available at the bar/café located in the marina.

Transport options: These are limited to bus, taxi and Uber.  NB Taxis in Panama do not have a meter, so it is important to settle on a price before getting into the car.  Shelter Bay marina offers a free twice daily mini bus service to the Colon shopping centre.

Shopping: A grocery shop with a limited range of frozen and other goods is available at the marina.  A shopping centre, refer above, is a 25 – 30 minute drive away. 

Restaurants: A restaurant/bar is located onsite at Shelter Bay marina, http://seagoddessadventures.com/shelter-bay-marina/.  We used this quite a lot during our short stay for meals, coffee and a glass of wine or two and can highly recommend the food and service. Apart from a kebab while out shopping we ate exclusively onboard or at the marina restaurant, as such we can’t provide any additional information regarding other eatery options in Colon. 

Banks and ATMs: available in the shopping centre.  A standard fee of $5.00US was in place for all ATM withdrawals throughout Panama.

Whilst the town of Colon is unlikely to be added to our list of must see tourist destinations, it provided us with everything we needed – rest, relaxation and reprovisioning.  It was also the most logical place to prepare for and await our transit of the Panama Canal.  Click here for our recollections of transiting the canal http://seagoddessadventures.com/panama-canal-crossing/ .

Duration: 9 days

On the 20^th September, just after lunch, we departed La Marin, Martinque and headed east in perfect sailing conditions.  From our position we had a clear view of Fort du Prince and the island’s landscape.  Passing the large rocky outcrop of Rocher du Diamant we sailed on through the evening and night into the Caribbean Sea.

A major squall with wind swings of 60 – 90^o hit at 0100 on Day 3, fortunately it was on us and over in two hours.  Peter was on shift, so it was good to have one of the experienced yachties managing the situation. 

Apart from this one squall, the remainder of this leg was all about the wind for a completely different reason, a distinct lack of wind.  From the time of this squall to arriving in Colon the true wind speed never got above 12 knots, 2 – 5 knots was commonplace.  So once again we predominantly motored or motor/sailed.  NB Where possible, and to make the best use of the wind, we used a butterfly sail formation using the Code 0 and the jib with good success.

But there was a couple of major highlights in what was to be a relatively long and uneventful passage.  The first was totally unexpected and a bit unnerving.  Sandra was on watch and spotted a large vessel coming over the horizon directly towards us at speed.  There was nothing showing on the AIS, but the vessel could be picked up on radar.  After alerting the rest of the crew, and via binoculars we determined it was a naval warship.  It slowed down and maintained about a two nautical mile distance off our port stern.  They contacted us via VHF on Channel 16 and Peter, as skipper, took control and responded to the myriad of questions they fired off.  The call and questions (interrogation) lasted for about 20 minutes.  At the end of the call, Peter cheekily asked the guy for their vessel identification to note in our log book.  There was a definite pause for about a minute, then the reply ‘Warship 14’ came over the radio.  With that the vessel turned and made way in the direction in which it came.  Well that was interesting, and was the source of much discussion for a while as we continued on course.

The second highlight was all about fun!  On Day 7, with the seas being particularly calm, we stopped the boat, drifted, threw the life ring and a line over the stern, and the three guys went for a swim in the Caribbean Sea.  Depth 3000 metres.  An absolute hoot and all captured on camera – priceless!

Unfortunately it wasn’t all sunshine and light.  On Day 4 of our passage towards Panama our Vitifrigo freezers stopped working, creating a major issue for us.  Obviously our first thoughts turned to the frozen food and how we could rescue as much as we could.  Unfortunately, we hadn’t noticed the issue till late in the day and had no idea how long the freezer had been this way (at least 24 hours), so a number of frozen foods were already partially or wholly thawed.  We cooked up as much of the meat as we could, bags of frozen vegetables were wrapped in towels and the refrigerator was filled with as much stuff as possible.  But we couldn’t save everything, and we lost a substantial amount of food.  Over the next three days we used up as much of the rescued food as possible, but with outstanding refrigerator issues already in play another bunch of food went over the side.  We emailed Windcraft, the warranty arm of The Multihull Group in Australia, via the IridiumGo as we were hopeful of getting the problem fixed in Panama.  Little did we know how slow and unresponsive they would be.  For full details of this ongoing drama are detailed in Warranty Woes – Part 1 http://seagoddessadventures.com/warranty-woes-vitrifrigo-freezers/

Whilst the Atlantic crossing brought visitors from the sea, the Caribbean sea brought visitors from the sky. The first feathered passenger was a gorgeous little bird with a bright yellow breast.  Next to arrive were the swallows and they just kept coming, about 20 or so all up.  And then they started to make a home for themselves in the cockpit, in the end it took a consistent and concerted effort to get rid of them all. Last but not least, a goose like bird and its mate arrived perching on the bow pulpits.  They stayed on board for about 24 hours before taking off, leaving behind an almighty mess on the bow locker hatches.

We arrived in Panamanian waters early on the morning of 29^th September to be greeted by a ‘car park’ of ships stretching to the horizon – tankers, cargo vessels, fishing trawlers and pleasure craft of all shapes and sizes.  Add to this the number of ships transiting to the port channel or exiting the channel, it was really an amazing sight to see.  While we drifted with the engine in idle, Peter attempted to contact Christabel Signal Station in Colon on Channel 12 to get clearance to enter the channel and head to Shelter Bay Marina.  That’s when Major Warranty Issue Number 2 struck, the VHF radio was not working.  When attempting to make the call the radio just went into reset mode over and over again.  There was no way we could contact the signal station or in fact anyone using this equipment.  Luckily, Peter’s planning and forethought saved the day.  We had a fully functioning, portable, battery operated VHF radio in the grab bag, and were able to make contact with the signal station.  We drifted for about 40 minutes before getting the all clear to cross the main shipping channel.  We contacted staff as we motored to the marina, and they were on hand to assist with berthing on our arrival.  Peter got the opportunity to try his hand at Mediterranean docking for a second time, and did an okay job. With the boat secured and all post-sail checks completed, it was time to head for a shower and a ‘good’ coffee. Click here for our review of Shelter Bay Marina http://seagoddessadventures.com/shelter-bay-marina/ and here for Warranty Woes – Part 2 http://seagoddessadventures.com/warranty-woes-vhf-radio/

Our visitors left a parting gift! Not quite in the right area of the boat, but I reckon it still classifies as the ‘Poop Deck’!