Sailing Australia

South of Outer Harbour

Whether it’s a day sail, overnighter or longer, there are a number of beaches along the Adelaide metropolitan coastline that offer good anchoring options for day trips.  North Haven, Largs, Semaphore, Grange, Henley Beach, West Beach, Glenelg and Brighton. 

Semaphore, West Beach and Glenelg are favourites of ours particularly when taking family and friends out for a day sail and a swim or snorkel off the back of the catamaran.  Semaphore, West Beach, Glenelg and Brighton are also great spots to watch the fireworks on New Years Eve or Australia Day.  Friends of ours have even anchored off Glenelg to listen to outdoor concerts, and depending how close you get you can even see the stage.

Not too much further south are a couple of other beaches worth visiting, Christies Beach and Port Noarlunga.  Bank on about 4 – 4 ½ hours from Outer Harbour, wind and sea conditions dependent.  Both of these locations have reefs, and you can anchor beach side the reefs though it can be lumpy at high tide.  Avoid these locations in south – south westerly winds, and also in a south – south westerly swell. 

North of Outer Harbour

During our stay in Adelaide we only ventured north once, to Middle Beach for an overnight stay.  Quite shallow and weed on sand bottom.  The ‘beach’ is basically mangroves, so not somewhere we would recommend to take the dinghy and go for a stroll.  The mozzies will find you there and believe us when we say they will find you two miles out to sea.

Port River

A jaunt down the Port River from Outer Harbour towards Port Adelaide is worthwhile.  Once you enter the channel via the breakwater you might be fortunate enough to see a cruise ship, cargo ship and/or container cranes in operation at Outer Harbour terminal.  The entrance to the Royal South Australian Yacht Squadron is via this channel, so depending on the day of the week and time of day it can be busy.  Further down the channel to port is a nature reserve with lots of bird life as well as a number of old dwellings and jetties as far as the quarantine station.  The starboard side is really interesting with a mix of industrial complexes; Australian defence ship building works; fuel terminal; bulk handling facilities; Port Adelaide Sailing Club; Marina Adelaide, commercial shipyards and haul out facilities.  

When we made our way down the river towards the Port River Expressway Bridge (also known as Tom Diver Derrick Bridge) there were several huge wind farm structures on the dock waiting for transportation.  The river has two bridges, one which is mentioned above and the Birkenhead Bridge.  Both bridges open for tall vessels but you will need to plan ahead as opening times are restricted to certain times of the day on certain days of the week. Both bridges stay closed by default and are only opened on request, 2 hours notice is required.  For specific details of bridge opening times and restrictions check out http://sa.gov.au>Boating+and+Marine.>+Licences+and+Permits>+Opening+Port+River+Bridges

Port Vincent

This coastal town sits almost directly across from Adelaide on the eastern side of Yorke Peninsula.  On average the journey has taken us approximately 6 hours from North Haven at 6 knots speed over ground. 

The town is a popular sailing and power boat destination due to its relatively close proximity to Adelaide.  Particularly so, in the summer months during school holidays and long weekends.  There is a large caravan and camping ground as well as a sailing club within cooee of each other and on our visits here the esplanade and local eateries have been very busy.  Fishing, swimming, paddle and wake boarding, really any water activities are the go here. 

There is also a walking trail which runs along the coastal line of Yorke Peninsula, we took the one which runs south from The Esplanade with steps to a cliff top trail.  Gorgeous views across the Gulf, even spotting a large sting ray in the shallows.  A board with the trail map can be found on the sea side of the Esplanade just before the sailing club. 

The town has a small supermarket, a kiosk serving the usual take away fare, a café, and a hotel with full bar and bottle shop service, as well as lunch and dinner meals 7 days a week.  NB You will definitely need to make a hotel booking if you are looking for a meal during busy periods.

Anchorage & Marina

Anchoring is poor as there is thin sand over limestone with weed here.  The Royal South Australian Yacht Squadron maintains two moorings in the bay. These are available for Squadron members.

On our visits here we pre-arranged a berth at the Port Vincent Marina which is run by the Cruising Yacht Club of South Australia (CYC).  The Marina is available to Club members and the public (though the latter is subject to availability).  The berth area is secured/gated with code access.  Marina amenities are well maintained and include showers, toilets, laundry, picnic and barbeque facilities.  The marina is about a 20 minute walk north of the main town.  To confirm berth availability and to book contact CYC, details on their website.

Ardrossan

We visited Ardrossan on the Queen’s Birthday long weekend, it wasn’t the best sailing option as the wind was North Westerly, so motor sailing was the go.  Six hours later we were anchoring in the bay between the commercial wharf and the town jetty.  Directly in front of us, a continuous band of red clay cliffs, which come sunset were just stunning.  The town supports the outlying farming community and is also known as a great fishing spot; for its blue swimmer crabs, and for the Zanoni shipwreck which sank approximately 10 nautical miles south east of Ardrossan.

After breakfast we took the dinghy across to the jetty, tying up at the jetty steps (the beach is quite rocky, and we were hesitant to take the dinghy onto the beach).  A couple of local fishermen offered to look after the dinghy while we were in town, which was very kind of them.  From the end of the jetty, we walked along pathway atop the cliffs to the local hospital before heading back into the centre of town.  That’s when we spotted the Museum, and what a wonderful find it was.  Cost of entry was $5.00 each, and it was worth every cent.  Lots of interesting and well-maintained displays including many artifacts from the Zanoni wreck as well as a video about the Stump Jump Plough which was invented by a local, Richard Bower Smith.  (The video was narrated by Matt Parkinson, ‘Goliath’ of The Chase Australia).  An area at the entrance to the museum was stocked with a range of giftware at very reasonable prices.  The volunteers who were on hand were just delightful, and we had a lovely chat.

While there, Sandra spotted a printout of a poem which is included here with permission from Ardrossan Museum South Australia.

Ketch Hand

Written by Mr. Noel Smith of Port Pirie who joined the ketch fleet at the age of 14.

He stood on the deck.

A shy lad with a smile,

And the look of the land in his way.

He said ‘How’re you guys going, I’ve come for a job’

And he grinned as he wished them good-day.

The skipper said, ‘Lad,

Can you cook just a bit,

Can you handle a big bag of grain?

Can you go without sleep? 

Can you live bloody cheap?

With a bit to eat now and again?

 ‘Can you take in a sail, when it’s blowing a gale?

Can you pump ship for hours without rest?

Can you splice, can you sew?

Can you scull, can you row?

Can you fight if you’re put to the test?

 ‘Do you mind just a bit

That there’s no place to shit,

Cept to hang your bum over the side?

Would you mind, do you think

If your ship-mates should stink,

And small creatures should crawl round on your hide?

 ‘Would you stay staunch and true,

To your mates in a blue,

If you’re out-numbered and copping the lot?

Would you stay at the wheel,

When you’re too cold to feel

If you’ve got any toes left, or not?

 ‘Could you lay down your head

On wet bags for a bed,

And take your night’s sleep in an hour?

Could you scrape out the timbers,

Could you clean out the limbers

From wet grain, that was putrid and sour?

 ‘Could you walk up the mast,

Making tops’ls well fast,

In the wind and the hail and the rain?

If the gaskets let go,

Though you’re worn out and slow,

Could you climb up and do it again?

 ‘Would you carry and stow,

In the heat down below,

With the summer sun blazing like hell?

Could you live with the weevil,

And the bugs black and evil,

And the rats and the mozzies as well?

 ‘Would you get your trips pay,

And lend it back the next day,

If your skipper should tell you he’s flat?

If the bottom needs scrubbing,

Or the brass should need rubbing,

Would you bog in and do some of that?

 ‘Would you sweat on the winch,

Fetch the chain inch by inch,

And break the anchor from deep in the sand?

Could you help rig the gear,

And not shed a tear,

With the rope splinters deep in each hand?

 ‘Would you strain, would you work,

And on no account shirk

Though the task be too much for a lad?

Could you stand the abuse,

That your skipper would use,

When he’s hung over and feeling real bad?

 ‘If you missed out on a bath,

For a month and a half,

And you started to stink like the others,

Would you share your few clothes,

And borrow from those

Who’d be ship-mates and ketch hands and brothers.

 ‘If you’d do all these chores,

Then the job is all yours,

Fetch your gear for we sail at the dawn,

But be warned, and it’s true

Any bludging from you,

And you’ll wish you had never been born!’

 So he came with his swag,

An old mattress and bag,

He moved into the foc’sle and stayed.

The first trips were rough,

He was made of good stuff,

He worked hard, and he made the grade.

 Now the years move along,

And the ketches are gone,

Though the mem’ries live on with the crews,

Still the lure of the sea,

Affects blokes like me,

And we’d crew them again, could we choose!’

*****

We then wandered the main street passing the local hardware shop and Ardrossan Hotel Motel which offers a lunch and dinner service in the Bistro 7 days a week.  We opted to cross the road where our choices for lunch included a local bakery or café.  A Drake’s supermarket services the local town and farming communities, as well as campers and day trippers.

Anchorage

Very shallow with sand over limestone, not suitable for monohulls which will need to anchor further out.  There are no mooring or marina options at this location.

Edithburgh

If you visualise Yorke Peninsula as a human leg with a foot, Edithburgh is a small country town on the back of the heel.  We visited Edithburgh as part of our return trip from the north coast of Kangaroo Island.  The entrance from the south is via Sultana Passage, a channel bordered by shallow sandbanks.  The Passage is about 4nm long and the entrance to the channel is marked.  Note that strong south winds can make the entrance to this passage dangerous.  We transited the Passage quite easily, with a 15kn SE-SSE wind.  There is a large wind farm behind Sultana Point which provides an interesting backdrop to the town.  (We would later learn that the wind farm, Wattle Point, is a short drive from the town and has a viewing area where you can get up close to the structures).

The town is predominantly known as an excellent fishing location and there are also a number of ship wrecks in local waters which attract divers and anglers alike.  Getting ashore was tricky.  While a boat ramp is in place there is no associated dinghy dock.  We took the dinghy to the end of the jetty, which is pretty poorly maintained, tied off and climbed up a rusted, seaweed covered ladder to get to the top. The main street has a few shops including a food take away shop, a hotel which serves meals and a petrol station.  We grabbed a bite to eat and headed to the grassed foreshore area for lunch to be joined by the local seagulls.

Troubridge Island and lighthouse, lies south east off Edithburgh – you can’t miss it if you are heading to or from Adelaide.  Access to both the island and lighthouse is restricted.  Tours are provided on public and school holidays by Troubridge Island Hideaway based in Edithburgh.  Tours are subject to weather conditions.  A visit to the island is something Peter and I are keen to organise in the future.

Anchoring and Mooring

The Royal South Australian Yacht Squadron and the Cruising Yacht Club of SA have mooring buoys located in the anchorage north of Sultana Point.  The anchorage is relatively shallow and quite weedy, we managed to wrap weed around one of our props.  Luckily for us a couple of moorings were free, and we ‘borrowed’ one overnight.  (We left our contact details on the cockpit table in case there was an issue when we went ashore).

NB If you find a pair of Maui Jim prescription sunglasses on the shore or in the water, please get in touch as they’re Sandra’s.  Fell in with a plop while we were mooring up.  An expensive lesson …. spectacle straps for all eyewear is essential.

Black Point

Black Point is situated about halfway between Ardrossan to the north and Port Vincent to the south (on the east coast of Yorke Peninsula).  We motor sailed in 10 – 15 knot SE -SSE winds.  The trip duration was approximately 6.5 hours each way.

It is a small holiday destination with numerous shacks along the beach front.  The trip was only ever meant to be a day there, stay overnight and back to our marina berth in Adelaide the next day.  For those of you who may be full time live aboards as well, you’ll appreciate how sometimes you just need to get off the dock.  Go for a sail, stay somewhere different and return refreshed.

There is a really nice beach here with a sand spit on the southern end.  People were friendly and we enjoyed a lovely walk.

Anchoring and Mooring

The Cruising Yacht Club of SA have a couple of mooring buoys here which were not in use, so we borrowed one overnight.  Anchoring is likely to be poor as the bottom is sand over limestone with weed.

Stansbury

This was another ‘get off the dock’ overnight trip.  The quiet seaside town of Stansbury lies half way between Port Vincent to the north and Edithburgh to the south, on the east coast of Yorke Peninsula.

Stansbury is a popular destination for anglers, and local oyster farms supply fresh oysters straight from the sea when in season.  Just our luck it wasn’t the right season!  The sandy beach and calm waters of Oyster Bay are popular for swimming, paddle boarding and water skiing.  When approaching the bay be sure to locate the marker on the tip of a large sand spit.  You need to give this area a wide berth particularly at low tide.

A fabulous kids playground is located on the foreshore along with bbq facilities and shaded shelters with tables.  Fuel and groceries are available here and the Dalrymple Hotel Bar and Restaurant offers meals 11.30am – 5.30 pm daily.  If you are staying here and looking for something to do, you might want to check out the Stansbury Museum at Dalrymple House.  Run by volunteers, the museum generally opens Mon and Sunday 2pm – 4pm, and more often during peak periods. Cost of entry: Child $1.00, Adult $3.00, Family $7.00.  (NB Details correct at time of publishing).

Anchoring and Mooring

Best to avoid anchoring as holding is poor with extensive weed patches over limestone.  There are both private and RSAYS moorings here.  There is a boat ramp here but no dinghy dock.

Duration:  15^th December – 21^st December 2020

It had been wet and windy for a couple of days prior to our departure from the Boatworks and the sea state was, to put it mildly, rough, too rough for us to cross the Gold Coast seaway. So with no time pressures we decided to back track northward along our previous route mooring overnight in Deanbilla Bay North Stradbroke Island (near Dunwich). NB These moorings are ‘owned and managed’ by the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron and their use is subject to current RQYS membership and availability. When we arrived there was only one other boat in place, and as current RQYS members we rang RQYS reception and got sorted and settled for the night.

The next morning, we had an easy sail along the coast of North Stradbroke and then headed for the top of Morton Island connecting one last time with some of our favourite spots …. the Big Sands and Tangalooma. Once we got to the top end of Moreton Island we could see the breakers and knew it was going to be rough. We headed North West as the sea appeared to be a bit calmer but that was an illusion as we had a crappy couple of hours heading directly into a 2 metre choppy swell coupled with 30+ knot winds on the nose. As such it took a solid couple of hours to get around the top end of Moreton Island. Peter was on his own, because at this stage Sandra was incredibly sea sick. After a straight 14 hour shift, Sandra was able to relieve Peter and we returned to a 4 hour watch schedule.

The next day brought little respite as the sea state remained rocky with a decent chop. Then things got really interesting off Sydney as the N – NW wind swung round to a south easterly at 28 knots, a port beam current running, and we were surrounded by thunderstorm activity including lightening. Winds remained in the 20 – 27 knot range for the most part with no let up in sight and we were both exhausted so we made the decision to head straight for Sydney Harbour.

At 1000 hours on Saturday 19^th December we approached the Heads. For us going through the Heads was quite surreal. All those years watching the Sydney to Hobart yacht races on the tellie, and here we were in our own boat passing through that same route. Once we passed the Heads we were like, OMG, this is crazy! There were ferries, small motor craft, sailing craft, kayakers, windsurfers, kite surfers … all going every which way. In a word, it was manic! Peter knew there were public moorings available on our starboard side, and after dodging the sea traffic we managed to score one at Quarantine Beach. We were surrounded by boats having onboard Christmas parties, but we were both too exhausted to notice any of the noise and after a quick bite to eat slept hard overnight.

We were woken at 0700 the next morning by our eldest daughter, the conversation went something like this:

S: Where are you?

Us: Sydney, just inside the heads.

S: Well Gladys is likely to make an announcement re a COVID lock down at 11 this morning. Are you anywhere near the North Shore? If you are you better get out of there asap.

From that point on it was all go … kettle on for an enroute cup of tea and pre departure checks completed we were off the mooring and heading seaward through the heads. We were comfortable with this decision as we hadn’t been off the boat, nor had we directly interacted with anyone for a good couple of weeks. However, we were disappointed that we hadn’t ticked off a harbour sail or going under the Harbour Bridge from our bucket list. Guess we’ll just have to arrange a return trip at some point in the future.

We sailed all that day, heading south dodging a couple of squalls followed by a comfortable sail overnight. Though we kept a close watch on a yacht sailing parallel with us closer to shore with no nav lights on and not showing on the AIS. We also discussed, Where to next? We considered all our options and agreed there was a high risk that COVID lockdowns would continue to impact on our movements. So, we parked the idea of ‘cruising’ down the east coast with an Adelaide ETA of April 2021. Instead, we would head direct to Adelaide, stopping only for rest breaks and shelter if required.  With that in mind, our next planned stop would be Eden.

Thirty hours after leaving Quarantine Beach Sydney, we picked up a public mooring close to the shoreline at Eden. NB There are two public moorings in this area, available for a 24 hour period only. Be aware that the local police monitor these moorings and fines apply if you overstay.

We moved the next day and anchored in Nullica Bay. A beautiful horseshoe bay with easy access via dinghy to the Seahorse Inn and Discovery Caravan and Camping Park.  Surrounded by rose gardens The Inn has been beautifully restored and is frequently used for weddings, conferences, and the like.  We popped in for a glass of wine one evening and given the price per glass it was a one off visit!  The caravan park was a great find …. $5.00 each per day to use their laundry and bathroom facilities.  The onsite office and shop has a range of grocery items and a refrigerated van calls in selling fresh fish.  We spent four days here, including most of Christmas Day before upping anchor at 1500 hours to continue our journey south.

Duration:  11^th November – 29^th November 2020

As for many Australians, the rippling effect of COVID lock downs severely curtailed our ability to travel interstate to spend time with our loved ones. And in the end it was an easy decision to put our long distance sailing plans on hold, and relocate ourselves and Sea Goddess to our home town of Adelaide. We planned an easy going cruise down the east coast, stopping to explore the towns, rivers and coastline along the way with an arrival date in Adelaide of sometime in April 2021. And with internet and mobile phone connections, both of us could continue to work remotely in our respective jobs.

The first part of our journey south will take us through the Great Sandy Straits, and due to the many shoals and sandbanks, tides and depth, careful passage planning is a priority. In planning our transit through the Straits we downloaded the Maritime Safety Queensland publication Beacon to Beacon Guide Great Sandy Straits available here http://www.msq.qld.gov.au/-/media/MSQInternet/MSQFiles/Home/boatingmaps/GreatSandyStraitbeacon.pdf?la=en

Some general information to share about the Straits that you might find useful and interesting. The strait’s passage stretches 70km (40nm) from Hervey Bay in the north to Tin Can Bay in the south, through a main channel up to 25m deep. It is more than 10km wide at its northern entrance and barely 1km wide at its southern end, Inskip Point. A few deep channels run the length of the strait and most are well marked with navigation aids. All main channel buoys and beacons are lit and laid red to port green to starboard when sailing south. The shallowest area of the strait is a ridge of sand west of South White Cliffs where depths have been known to reduce to one metre. Tides in the strait flood from both ends, meeting in the vicinity of Boonlye Point, from where they ebb in both directions. From either north or south, a favourable tidal stream can be utilised from one end of the strait to the other by timing your arrival at the tides’ meeting point (use Ungowa in the tide tables).

Photo courtesy of www.wetlandinfo-des-qld-gov-au

So with our sail plan in place and an excellent weather window we departed Great Sandy Strait Marina at 0400 hours and motored our way around Big Woody Island to the Straits. Then headed south passing Picnic and Duck Islands on our starboard side and to port the North White Cliffs on the western shore of Fraser Island (opposite the mouth of the Mary River). From here the channel comes close against Fraser Island and the South White Cliffs. Once past Booker Island the channel curves west between Turkey Island and Sheridan Flats, where among mudflats and mangrove islets the flood tides meet over the shallowest depths of the Strait. Whilst this section of the channel has a number of beacons, as added insurance from this point forward Sandra stayed at the bow providing additional visual depth information to Peter.

Continuing to head south guided by the channel markers we rounded Boonlye Point and took the main channel on the western side of Stewart Island and followed this through to Snout Point. Traversing the Strait is really quite beautiful with sandy beaches, mud flats topped with gnarly shrubs and trees and heaps of bird life. From here it was onto Wide Bay Harbour, and with a five hour wait for the right tide to cross the Wide Bay Bar*, we anchored between Elbow Point and The Bluff on the western side of Fraser Island and had a bite to eat and a kip. (Just be mindful of humungous ugly flies if you decide to stop here). We were up by 1500 hours, prepped for the crossing and upped anchor. From our location we could see about ten other vessels, pleasure and commercial, on the opposite side of the harbour also waiting to cross the Bar.

With both engines at 2100rpm we made our way forward, turning east to follow a fishing trawler, since we reckoned he had probably done the crossing a time or two. Whilst there was a one metre swell running we crossed the Bar without incident and resumed our southerly course. As an aside, after crossing or waiting to cross the Bar from the south, it’s common for cruisers to stop off at Double Island Point. However, we had a date and time booked for some warranty work to be completed in Brisbane which required Sea Goddess to be hauled out so not an option for us, maybe next time.

*The Wide Bay Bar has a reputation for being one of the most dangerous on the Queensland coast because of the length of the crossing (over 3nm), its distance offshore, the time it takes to cross (up to one hour depending on conditions) and the changing weather and sea conditions during that time. Top Tip: it’s important to do your homework, and time your crossing carefully.

The sail south was amazing, we both agree that there is something truly special about sailing at night. Spectacular sunsets make way for a sky alight with millions of stars, and that quintessential ‘shushing’ sound as the wind fills the sails and the boat glides through the open sea. There is a serenity that comes with sailing at night that just can’t be captured during the day. Peter and I tend to do longer shifts at night, 5 – 6 hours, so we can each get a refreshing sleep. We also sleep in the saloon, just in case help is needed, or the watch keeper needs to go up front for some reason. (NB We have a non-negotiable safety protocol that no one is allowed up front at night without a life jacket tethered on and oversight by a second person).

We reached Bribie Island the next day, around mid-morning. We love Bribie, we have been here numerous times and it has such a great small sea side town vibe. It’s a fantastic spot to relax; swim; fish; get a feed at any of the cafes and restaurants along the foreshore, and if you are there on a weekend check out the market. There are plenty of anchorage spots with excellent holding, as well as a short-term berthing spot at the end of the jetty. We spent three glorious nights here before upping anchor and heading back to our old stomping ground at Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron for the haul out. We have total confidence in Scott and his team at RQYS they are extremely knowledgeable and professional, and the haul out went off without a hitch. While we were here gelcoat cracks by the bow pad eyes and steering cable pulleys were repaired under warranty and water maker technicians removed membranes and tubing for further assessment. Check out our comments regarding ongoing water maker issues here http://seagoddessadventures.com/warranty-woes-watermaker/

After a week at RQYS, we were up super early for our move to Canaipa, but the port engine wouldn’t start. Peter checked the fuel line and it was disconnected, probably due to the water maker technicians working in the engine bay the day before. He tried to reconnect the line but it wouldn’t hold, so that meant a trip to the local chandlery at Manly to get a replacement fuel line. Once connected he used an oil/diesel pump that we had onboard to get rid of air locks then reconnected everything with success!

We headed to Canaipa via the western channel around Russell Island, as we weren’t sure about the power lines on the eastern channel across to Stradbroke. We had intel from a couple of sources regarding the power lines in the western channel, and we timed it perfectly – low tide, and motored close to the pylon where the power lines were at the highest. We reached Canaipa late afternoon and had real problems setting the anchor in mud and weed. After three attempts we decided to move further down the channel where we anchored between North Stradbroke and Russell Islands, just off Rocky Point. We chilled here for a few days, joined by the kookaburras, cockatoos and galahs on the nearby escarpment. May sound boring to some, but for us it was just what we needed after a hectic work schedule.

On the 29^th November, we upped anchored and motored south to the Gold Coast via the Canaipa Passage. Being a Sunday and with great weather there was a fair amount of boat traffic and jet skiers around. But we didn’t have any hassles and steadily made our way to Jumpinpin, then via the inland waterway to Coomera River up to The Boat Works Marina where we had a marina berth booked for a couple of weeks. Check out our review of The Boat Works marina here http://seagoddessadventures.com/the-boat-works-marina/

We spent just a tad over two months in Hervey Bay and with so much coastline and awesome sailing conditions we enjoyed every minute of our time here. Sailing opportunities abound, whether a short sunrise or sunset sail, or perhaps a day, overnight or weekender – there’s ample places to go.  We predominantly headed for the north west and west coast of Fraser Island, Great Sandy National Park, where there are good anchorage spots.

Some ideas to get you started:

• Big Woody Island
• Platypus Bay
• Rooney Point
• Coongul Point
• Moon Point and Moon Point Bank
• Arch and Triangle Cliffs
• Wathumba Creek.

Just a few extra points about Wathumba Creek.  This is a drying lagoon anchorage so enter and leave at high tide. Great for multihulls and boats that can take the bottom, excellent all round protection.

You can also anchor near, and tender into, Kingfisher Bay Resort. As a bonus you are welcome to use resort facilities, the only ‘cost’ is that you reciprocate in some way by buying a meal or having some drinks there.

Whale watching is hugely popular in the waters of Hervey Bay between the months of April – October. Each year these amazing creatures travel long distances from cold feeding areas in Antarctica, to warm, shallower waters such as those along the east coast of Australia to breed and calve. We arrived in Hervey Bay toward the end of the ‘whale’ season, however we didn’t miss out, sighting 2 -3 whales frolicking around on a couple of weekend sails.

Just a heads-up regarding tourist boats at this time of year. There are a number of tourist boats that operate out of the Great Sandy Straits Marina and the Boat Club Marina. Most offer full day and half day packages and are extremely popular. As such the main channel into the marinas can be very busy, and tourist boat operators can be quite ‘assertive’ as they move through what is a relatively narrow channel. We often heard boaties on the receiving end of their displeasure over the VHF radio! So, if you are using the marinas or fuel docks just be mindful, patient and make sure you are on the right side of the channel 😊. (We tended to avoid leaving or arriving at certain times in the day to avoid them).

If you are planning a trip north of Brisbane, we would highly recommend taking some time out to explore the waters and surrounds of Hervey Bay.

Duration: 19 days (24^th August – 11^th September 2020)

For us the year of 2020 will be remembered as the year the COVID-19 pandemic exploded into our lives, and the year we made the decision to relocate ourselves and Sea Goddess to Adelaide. But first we would embark on a short sojourn to north Queensland, to join other Lagoon owners at the annual Lagoon Escapade at Gloucester Bay in the Whitsundays.

Our passage plan included taking the seaward route around Fraser and Lady Musgrave Islands, to Great Keppel Island. Then onto Airlie Beach and Gloucester Bay.

We departed the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron marina on 24^th August making our way north through Moreton Bay, chaperoned by four gorgeous dolphins. Winds were very light and seas were calm, so we motor sailed, alternating engines at 1500rpm throughout the initial part of our journey. (A useful fuel saving hack we used extensively on our travels back from France). We passed Noosa overnight, and later that afternoon just off Fraser Island we were joined by two playful humpback whales traveling south. 

Honestly, hands down this was the most amazing experience of our lives. We were still motor-sailing at the time, so Peter cut the engine and the whales confidently swam up to Sea Goddess and frolicked around us for two hours. They dived under the boat, breached, flipper slapped, came right up to the transom and turned upside down to show us their bellies, swam on the surface of the water and literally eye balled us. They were enchanting, and we loved every minute. Peter spent most of the time filming on his mobile phone, whilst Sandra talked to them, telling them how beautiful and clever they were and waving like a loon. After two hours we realised that they didn’t want to leave the party, however for us we needed to continue our journey north and begrudgingly went inside. After about 20 minutes they finally left to continue their journey south.  Just WOW!  The video below captures some of the key moments with these amazing mammals.

Over the course of the next day and a half the winds picked up and seas became quite choppy. Whilst we implemented six hour watches, so we could each get a decent period of sleep, at this point in our journey we were both quite tired and decided to make way for Great Keppel Island. (We had hoped to visit Lady Musgrave Island but with the winds and the chop we decided to give it a miss and visit on the way back south). On arrival at GKI there were quite a few boats that we had been following on AIS already there, no doubt sheltering from the winds and/or taking a break as well. We anchored in the sandy bay, a good holding spot and caught up on some much needed sleep.

Mid morning the next day we upped anchor and continued north that day and overnight, running on course under jib and motor (1700rpm). Next stop was Middle Percy Island, one of three islands in the Percy group. We anchored in West Bay, which has a reputation for being ‘rolly’ but we didn’t find it overly so.

We took our dinghy over to the island for a walk and to check out the wooden structures. The beach is dominated by an A Frame structure which houses the famed ‘Percy Island Yacht Club’, filled with signs and paraphernalia of visiting yachts, some stretching back to the early 1950’s. Just a short walk away is the ‘phone’ hut where you will find a collection of books which can be ‘borrowed’ and/or you can add to the collection if you have any books on hand to donate.

While we were checking out the bits and pieces at the Club and in the hut, unbeknownst to us our dinghy was being filled with water from the incoming tide! And you guessed it, no bailer on board. If that wasn’t bad enough the kill switch cord was nowhere to be found. We improvised by using our hats to bail out some of the water, and by holding the kill switch out Peter was able to get the engine running. Once we got back to Sea Goddess we accessed the onboard bailer and emptied as much water as we could, then hoisted the dinghy up at an angle to drain the rest through the dinghy outlet. Lesson learnt – always have a bailer in the dinghy! And if you are wondering, the replacement kill switch cord cost us $25.00. But back to Middle Percy Island, if the conditions are right, the island and its iconic buildings are well worth a visit.

We had a lazy start to the next day and discussed where to next over breakfast. Wind and sea conditions were in our favour so we decided our next stop would be Whitsunday Island, and in particular Whitehaven Beach located on the eastern side of the island. Just a small glitch when we were upping anchor, the snubber pin jammed and on closer inspection the pin was bent. Peter used a pair of pliers to straighten it then tapped the pin back into the snubber hook. Our problem going forward was that the pin was now ‘stuck’ in the hook, and not freely moving. We kept the pliers handy for the reminder of the trip to tap the pin up or down through the snubber. We also resigned ourselves to either having the hook fixed or replaced in the near future.

Just 24 hours later we anchored at the northern end of Whitehaven Beach, and the tourist photos that you see on the tele and in the brochures didn’t disappoint. The soft white sandy beach and crystal clear surrounding waters were absolutely gorgeous and all that we had hoped for. We were keen to explore the beach so took the dinghy to the southern end where we found an area with picnic tables, a small campground and toilets. The area is well shaded by vines, shrubs, and eucalyptus trees. There were a number of people swimming, sunbathing, strolling, or playing ball games but it wasn’t crowded by any means.  We took a leisurely stroll through the shallows towards the hill and inlet at the northern end, just fab.

Throughout our time at Whitehaven, a steady stream of helicopters circled the beach and landed at the northern end. Similarly, seaplanes land around this area as well which make a spectacular sight as they come in and land on the water. Not surprisingly, they tend to start around sunrise and finish at sunset. You notice the noise at first, but honestly the place is so relaxing that after a while you just tune them out. Tourist boats arrive a bit later, from nine in the morning and they predominantly anchor at the southern end of the beach. If you are planning a sail north, a stop at Whitehaven Beach is a definite must.

Next a leisurely five hour sail to Airlie Beach. Prior to anchoring we refueled at the Port of Airlie fuel dock, where we found fuel much cheaper than the marina fuel dock price on the internet. We anchored to the right of the channel in the lee of surrounding hills and then headed into town to replenish food supplies and have a wander. We had both visited Airlie Beach before, so we knew our way around. After tying up the tender at the dinghy dock and checking in at the Whitsunday Sailing Club, it was then just a short walk to the supermarket. As an aside, the club offers a good range of meals, which we are happy to recommend. Alternatively, grab a beer or wine and sit out on the balcony and just chill. The town itself has a great relaxed feel, with people of all ages making the most of the glorious day.  Barbeques were on the go, and the swimming pool next to the beach is a mecca for kids at any time.

We had just left the dinghy dock area when a police rib pulled up alongside with lights flashing and the officer asked where we were headed. He followed us to Sea Goddess, and after tying up proceeded to breath test Peter, who blew 0.00, checked boat ownership and registration, and was particularly interested in identification of the tender. We had the boat registration number on the tender as opposed to the boat name which met with requirements so no problems there. Sandra interrupted proceedings to ask to be excused as the ice cream and other frozen foods were currently melting! Peter and the officer continued to have a bit of a chinwag, before he finally left and returned to, you guessed it, just behind the breakwater near the dinghy dock.

Later that evening and throughout the night wind gusts picked up big time, and by morning we found we had dragged for the first time ever. Not only that we were continuing to drag towards one of the channel markers, so it was full on for a few minutes as we got the engines on and the anchor up. When the anchor came up it was covered in mud and weed, something to monitor going forward. As we were already up and going, we headed out and made way for Gloucester Bay. We motor-sailed for the journey, being mindful of chartered reefs and depth between Cape Gloucester (mainland) and Gloucester Island. Once we rounded the top end of the Cape, we moored near Cape Gloucester Beach Resort where we joined several other Lagoon catamarans for the annual Lagoon Escapade.

Shag Islet sits in front of the Resort, with Montes Reef Resort just round the corner. For those of you unfamiliar with Shag Islet, it is famous for ‘Shaggers’ the loyal members of the Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club (SICYC), a social network of cruising yachties and individuals who enjoy boating. The yacht club boasts more than 3500 members from 14 countries around the world.  All members are registered as ‘Vice Commodores’, each representing an individual nautical location such as an island, islet, river or bay, which they have some knowledge of, so as to be able to provide advice or assistance to other ‘Vice Commodores’ of the club. The club supports the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia and to date has raised a significant amount of money to support prostate cancer research. An annual ‘meeting’ of members at the Islet attracts Shaggers from near and far. To join the club or for more information head to www.sicyc.com.au

Our return trip south was challenging with a persistent stiff SE to ESE wind and choppy sea conditions. We changed course and tacked on a number of occasions to make best use of the windy conditions, motor sailing for much of the journey from Gloucester Bay. We hadn’t planned on stopping at Great Keppel Island but after two days and nights sailing difficult conditions, we were both tiring so anchored here late into the evening. After a much needed rest we upped anchor and two days later we were sailing the waters of Hervey Bay, our home base for the next couple of months. We pre-arranged a berth at Great Sandy Straits Marina and were greeted by Bob, the marina manager, on arrival. Check out our review of this marina http://seagoddessadventures.com/hervey-bay-marina/

Whilst our trip north was a little under three weeks in duration, it has given us a taste of what northern Queensland has to offer …… starts with A and ends in LOT. So the seed has already been sown for a future return trip, one that allows us to explore this magnificent part of Australia at a more leisurely pace.