Duration: 40 days
The next stage of our trip will involve a lot more coastal hops than previous stages thus far. There will be a lot more day sails, anchoring overnight before moving on the next day. This ensures we keep to our planned timeframes and limits the number of night sails we undertake. While we both enjoy night sailing, it’s a bit of a double-edged sword. The quietness that surrounds you with just the shushing of the boat as it makes its way through the water; the stars which light up the night sky, and the moonlight creating a path though the sea is lovely and incredibly calming. Then on the flip side there are boats, particularly fishing trawlers who, in an effort to maintain the secrecy of their fishing spots, turn off their navigation instruments so they don’t appear on ours or their competitors. On one night Sandra noted a light approaching from behind getting closer and closer, the vessel didn’t appear on our instrumentation. Turned out to be a massive cargo ship about 5 kilometres off our port side. Sounds okay if you are driving a car, but it’s mighty close when you are sailing. Then there are crab pots, at night it’s impossible to spot them and if you happen to cross the floating line it can become tangled in a boat’s propeller. We were at least 40nm offshore and they were still out there. So not a lot you can really do at night, hope for the best and if it happens manage any issues that may arise.
Our first stop after leaving Two Rocks was a small coastal town called Lancelin. We anchored between the town on the mainland and Lancelin Island. Lots of McMansions on the sea front, and lots of fishing boats, both small and large, coming back in before sunset. Lancelin is well known as one of the largest lobster fishing ports in Western Australia. (Photo below of Lancelin Island). Click here for Lancelin anchorage information https://seagoddessadventures.com/lancelin-anchorage/ The next day we headed to Green Islands, two islands off the mainland coast joined by a sand spit. There wasn’t a lot of wind, so we motor sailed, passing huge expanses of untouched white sand dunes on the mainland. Around 10-ish just north of Dide Bay Reef we spotted our first whale. We were alerted by the blow at first, then it breached and gave a flipper slap. An unexpected but wonderful surprise.
It was a hairy approach to Green Islands, as they are surrounded by shallow reefs which cause waves to constantly crash over the underlying rock bed. The wave formation was cool, starting at one end and building momentum by moving horizontally in a long run along the reef before crashing over and over again. Peter navigated us through the narrow passage between the reefs with great skill, then we turned to tuck Sea Goddess into the lee of one of the islands, with the mainland behind us. This would provide us with protection from the oncoming swell. And boy did we need protection! It turned out to be a crazy night, the wind was howling, and waves were slapping against the hull. When we got up the sea was like a washing machine, with easterly winds gusting up to 35+ knots and a 1 – 1 ½ metre swell running. Sandra out on the foredeck to retrieve the anchor, suited up with life jacket and tethered on, Peter at the helm. It was super challenging as the boat was getting tossed around like a bucking bronco and waves were crashing over the foredeck. Sandra got soaked head to toe, ugh! We really needed to get out of there, and the anchor chain was straining as Sea Goddess was being pushed back by the wind and the windlass wasn’t happy. But by powering up the engines and moving forward we were able to counteract the wind and waves to get the anchor chain and anchor up, disaster averted. We followed the same route of yesterday, dodging the reefs and breaking waves. Goodbye Green Islands, we won’t be back! Click here for anchorage information https://seagoddessadventures.com/green-islands-anchorage/
By 1100 the wind had dropped, and apart for a starboard swell we motor-sailed to Jurien Bay without issue. Lots and lots of crab pots scattered throughout the bay and around our planned anchor point. Another catamaran was anchored south of the jetty, so we joined them there. Jurien Bay is a tourist hotspot, not only for crabbing and fishing but for a nearby colony of seals. Regular boat tours leave the marina offering the opportunity to swim with the seals or be an observer. Not sure if they had much joy the day after we arrived as a massive thunderstorm rolled in, with stormy clouds hanging around for most of the day. Link to Jurien Bay anchorage information https://seagoddessadventures.com/jurien-bay-anchorage/
We left Jurien Bay on the 1st of May, with strong head winds and choppy seas putting paid to any notion of sailing. We motored to another lovely bay, Anchorage Bay at Green Head, a small regional fishing town. We rested up overnight, and with a planned overnight sail tonight and a departure time around 2.00 pm, Peter got kitted up in his snorkelling gear to complete a check and some maintenance work on the boat hulls and the propellers while Sandra got stuck into some onboard cleaning. We left on time, us and a heap of pesky bush flies, luckily, we kept them contained to the cockpit and helm station. And one by one they became fish food. Link to Green Head anchorage follows https://seagoddessadventures.com/green-head/
Our passage plan took us directly away from the coast as we sought to reduce the possibility of getting tangled in crab pot lines. We gave up when we were still finding them at the 50metre depth line, and changed course northward to Geraldton. With settling seas, light 8-10 knot winds, and alternating engines to keep us moving it was a comfortable overnight sail. In the beginning glow of sun rise we could clearly see the lights of Geraldton ahead, and around 0945 we were anchored in Champion Bay. For anchorage information click https://seagoddessadventures.com/champion-bay-anchorage-geraldton/
Geraldton
After completing our post sail checks and activities, and those who know Sandra well will know there is a checklist in place for that (ha ha!), we took the dinghy to a really lovely horseshoe beach. Even though it was a weekday there were kids running around in the shallows and a few sunbathers as well. Once we got to the foreshore pathway, and with the Geraldton Yacht Club building directly in front of us, we turned left and were impressed by the available amenities, including four large playgrounds. One fenced basketball-handball court, a huge adventure playground with climbing ropes, rope ladders and the like, another for water play and the last one more traditional. Cafes, sculptures, indigenous art coupled with a perfect sunny day completed the picture. We needed to pick up a couple of things, so using Google maps we headed for the local shopping centre. Lots of development happening or about to happen ….. large signs up with plans for more apartment buildings, shops, restaurants in a large disused piece of land that used to be part of the railway station. The gorgeous old station building is still standing, and we hope it remains so as it is a classic design, and a tribute to the history of the town. Currently the building is used as a market every Sunday. The photo below is one of the local pubs.
The shopping centre was small compared to what we are used to but had all the basics including a supermarket and Kmart. Leaving here we meandered our way back passing a shop with a stunning photographic display. The business is owned by Karl Monaghan, pretty sure he has featured in one of those touristy shows on tv as the name was very familiar. As you can imagine his work was quite pricey but given the quality of the shots rightly so. We stood outside for a while just taking in the stunning views captured by camera.
The town of Geraldton also has an extremely busy port, mainly wheat and iron ore. The port is a stone’s throw from our anchorage and seeing these humungous vessels with tugs (usually one side on and one behind) navigate the relatively narrow channel and then being turned around 360° before docking is remarkable. (When we realised how close we would be to the port, and given the Bunbury disaster, we kept all the hatches well and truly closed until we got a sense of the wind direction. Very pleased to report there were no issues this time). Given how close we were to all action at the port, we decided to check it out the next day.
So, we retraced our path to the beach and turned right this time, walking passed a newish modern building which turned out to be the Geraldton Naval Cadet Academy. Further on to a free and quite popular RV park, and then along a wide path which ran adjacent to the port channel. (The path was previously a set of train tracks which once upon a time carried cargo and resources to waiting ships). The old jetty was still in use for fishing and as a popular spot for local youths to jump off and ‘bomb’ into the water. At the end of the path were two lookouts, one across Champion Bay and the other towards the Indian Ocean. In front of and to the right of the port channel is a breakwater, a sunning spot for several local seals … unfortunately for us there wasn’t any sunbathing going on when we took the dinghy out there for a look.
Our Sunday in Geraldton was a busy one. We took the dinghy to shore and joined the locals at an expo where we wandered around various displays. Local scouts; volunteer marine rescue; maritime safety; local police with patrol car; an activity tent where children could use working ‘grown up’ tools to make wooden things; a range of local health and community services, plus a variety of speakers providing talks to anyone who cared to listen. We wandered through taking it all in, before heading for our destination the HMAS Sydney II Memorial, which sits atop a hill overlooking the township and out to sea.
Not sure if it is appropriate to say that a memorial is beautiful? But it was truly lovely and poignant. The thought that had gone into each piece, each structure, and the serenity of the park …. there are no words to describe the emotional connection evoked from just being there. The dome of the main structure is made up of 365 stainless steel seagulls representing each of the men who tragically died. (Traditionally seagulls represent the souls of lost sailors). The ‘Pool of Remembrance’ commemorates the finding of the ship in March 2008, 120 miles off Steep Point WA. The granite pool hosts a silhouette of a seagull in flight, with its beak pointing to the location of the ship in the pool floor. Close by is the ‘Waiting Woman’ whose gaze looks out to the exact compass bearing of the downed ship.
It was a quiet walk back to the dinghy, and we wandered down the main street with its shops, restaurants, and cafes. Though being a Sunday, most were closed for the day. We popped in for lunch at the Geraldton Yacht Club, and sitting out on the upstairs deck we had an awesome view over the bay, the port and beyond as we watched the expo wind down. A catch up with a couple we met in Rockingham to share sailing stories and discuss our future travel plans followed before retiring to Sea Goddess for the night.
Our last day in Geraldton, and Peter took the opportunity to get his gear off, his snorkelling gear and boardies on, and spent all morning cleaning the starboard hull of sea growth as well as scraping barnacles off the propellers and sail drives. Just the port hull to do at some point in the future. Then it was time to head over to the catamaran ‘Tantabiddi’ to join some other boaties for sundowners. All of whom are, like us, on their way north up the coast to The Kimberly. A great opportunity to share sailing experiences and information, as well as imbibing in a glass or two of wine. Tomorrow its back to hopping up the coast.
We left Geraldton early the next morning bound for the Abrolhos Islands, a group of islands off the coast of Western Australia. We had planned to island hop for a day or three before moving further north. Our first stop was Beacon Island, a flat pancake like island, to see if we could score the only available mooring ball. We were in luck, though it was a bit offshore and offered no protection from any strong winds or swell but we decided to take it anyway. We had many attempts to pick the mooring line up which was unusually short, thick (about the thickness of Peter’s forearm) and extremely heavy, but to no avail. In this instance when you picked up the mooring line you were essentially picking up the mooring ball as well adding an enormous weight. This is the first time we have ever had an issue with a mooring. We figured that it was highly likely that other moorings in the island group would be similar. Link to Abrolhos mooring information https://seagoddessadventures.com/abrolhos-islands-mooring/
So with sunset approaching we made the decision to leave the Beacon Island, to continue on and head north to Dirk Hartog Island. This would require two overnight sails plus day sails. Unfortunately, as we have experienced at other times in this journey, the wind and sea state did not play nice – strong winds and seas like a washing machine for the most part! We were beginning to wonder whether we would ever get a break. And then it happened, early morning of our arrival day (!!) winds dropped, and seas calmed.
By sunrise we could see Dirk Hartog Island in the distance. This most western part of the island and the mainland to our right were brown and barren, virtually no vegetation at all. A lighthouse sat atop the mainland at the entrance to the channel running between the two land masses. Some good names here – Broken Down Head, Mystery Beach, and Tumbledown Point. We anchored in a gorgeous bay facing a series of buildings on the island foreshore, which turned out to be a bar/restaurant with outdoor seating area and an accommodation block with maintenance sheds behind. For information about our island anchorage click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/dirk-hartog-island-anchorage/
From the mainland, passenger access to the island is via ferry from Denham; vehicle access is via barge from Steep Point which carries a maximum of one trailer and one vehicle at a time. Various types of accommodation are available on the island from high end villas; an eco-lodge (The Lodge); homestead camping, or DIY national park camping. Kayaks and paddleboards are available for paying guests. The island has the honour of having the most remote bar and café in Australia, and the last sunset in Australia from the furthest west point in Australia. For more information about the island check out the website http://www.dirkhartogisland.com.au
Next day we took the dinghy for a spin to a small rocky island called Meade Island, which is a known breeding ground for sea eagles and osprey. Didn’t see any but then we didn’t get too close so as not to disturb any birds that might be nesting. From here it was a shot hop to the beach, and we left the dinghy next to a rusted semi submerged steel boat. We had just started meandering along the beach when we spotted a horse having a feed on the lawn outside The Lodge. Honestly it was the last thing we expected to see, but there it was, not bothered just munching away. Just in case you didn’t believe us here’s a photo x
The ‘Inscription’ café/bar and gift shop was open, and a number of people were on the deck enjoying the weather and view of the seascape. We headed on, making our way towards a rocky outcrop at the end of the beach, passing glam-tents and regular not so glam tents. We spotted lots of stingrays and two small sharks (about a metre in length) in the shallows. Then it was back to the bar for a couple of pre-dinner drinks before returning to Sea Goddess.
We were also keen to find out some of the history of the island and in particular how it got its name. We found all we needed to know at the National Museum of Australia website. One of the things that we found interesting and in some ways a bit comical, was the story surrounding a plate. So, the story goes that in October 1616 Dirk Hartog and crew landed on the island (hence its name) and to record his visit to the new land, Hartog had a pewter dinner plate flattened and ‘inscribed’ with details of their landing and further journey plans. This plate was nailed to a post and placed on high ground at the northern end of the island, a spot now known as Cape Inscription. It stayed there for eighty one years until 1697 when another Dutchman, Willem de Vlamingh, came ashore and found the plate half buried in sand. Removing it he created a new one, copying Hartog’s inscription then adding the details of his own visit to the island. He then took the original plate back to the Netherlands. (The plate is the oldest European artefact recovered from Australian shores. It is now held by the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam).
But wait there’s more ….. in 1801 a French expedition led by Nicolas Baudin landed on the island. The replacement de Vlamingh plate was located by the young cartographer, Louis de Freycinet, who bought it back to the corvette Naturaliste. Captain of the Naturaliste, Jacques Hamelin, ordered de Freycinet to return the plate considering it poor form to remove it. But obviously Louis hadn’t forgotten about ‘the plate’ when in 1818 he returned, this time in charge of his own ship, and took the de Vlamingh plate back to France. The plate was misplaced until the 1940s when it was relocated and, after the Second World War, was ‘gifted’ to the Australian people by the French government. The plate is now on display in the Maritime Museum in Fremantle, Western Australia. Unfortunately, not being aware of this story we didn’t look for the ‘replacement plate’ when we visited the Fremantle maritime museum … but who knows someday we might get to see it and/or the original in Amsterdam.
After a lovely couple of days here it was time to move on, but not before we had our first encounter with a very unhappy sea snake. Sandra was bringing up the anchor in preparation for our departure, and there it was wrapped around the anchor chain. (To put you in the know, Sandra’s greatest fears while undertaking this trip are snakes, sharks, and crocodiles). After letting out a loud Yelp through the headphones, and once Peter got his hearing back, he suggested dropping the anchor a bit and bringing it up again a couple of times to see if we could shake it off. We thought it had worked only to find it wrapped further down the chain, up and down, up and down again and it was gone. Well, that was until it swam towards the boat, head and a good portion of its body out of the water letting us know it wasn’t pleased. Gladly within minutes we had left it well behind. It wasn’t the only one we would see as we made our way to our overnight anchorage at Broadhurst Bay. We spotted two more swimming southwards with the current; and then three hammerhead sharks swimming close to the surface in the bay itself! Following a good night’s sleep we upped anchor early next morning just as the sun was rising, passing magnificent ochre cliffs as we sailed towards our next stop, Monkey Mia.(Photo of us at Inscription Cafe & Bar, Dirk Hartog Island). Link to Broadhurst Bay anchorage here https://seagoddessadventures.com/broadhurst-bay-anchorage/
Monkey Mia (pronounced My-a)
After a pleasant six-and-a-half-hour sail, joined by the local dolphins along the way, we anchored in the bay near the jetty. Monkey Mia isn’t a town per se, it is a national park with a resort offering various styles of accommodation including a caravan park as well as a modern coastal themed bar/restaurant; a shop with a limited range of groceries, drinks and gifts; park and excursion booking office; a popular boat ramp and jetty, as well as staff offices and quarters. A long, gorgeous beach in front makes way to crystal clear water, just idyllic really. We made our way to the office to pay the required national park fees, $30.00 per adult per day, $10.00 per day for seniors and concession card holders which was quite reasonable. This fee included access to all facilities including the pool, restaurant and so on as well as unlimited attendance at the ‘dolphin experience’ which occurred three times each morning. There were also several commercial operators offering sunset sails, fishing charters and the like.
Our plans to attend see the dolphins the next morning were put on hold as Peter noticed ominous clouds in the distance, then within thirty minutes a blanket of fog rolled in, and it was just too dangerous to move about in the dinghy. Then around 0830 heavy rain began followed by thunder and lightning. In one respect we were very happy, as the outside of the boat was getting a solid wash removing all the build-up of salt. But this morning’s weather event was overshadowed by a super-duper storm around four in the afternoon, we quickly locked everything up and shut down all onboard electrics, sat back and watched the sky show.
By next morning the sky had cleared to herald a beautiful day. We were up early to take the dinghy across to the beach for the 0800 ‘Dolphin Experience’ session. Lots of people standing behind the barrier on the beach and more on the jetty. The dolphins obviously know its show time because a couple were already swimming around. Two Park Rangers arrived, one miked up, then invited us down to the waterline where we were able to stand ankle deep in the water. In total four dolphins arrived close to shore, one with an eleven-week calf, a male called Wiggi. Two volunteers with small pieces of fish in metal buckets hand fed them. It was great experience and educational to, as the ranger provided some interesting facts about dolphin life and the habits of these local dolphins in particular. We treated ourselves to a café style coffee (we’ve got to make the most of these little pleasures while we can), and after a long beach walk, we headed back to the boat. On the way a massive turtle appeared on the surface, but unfortunately didn’t reappear for a photo. Rain clouds returned and we experienced rain for the remainder of the day but not with the intensity of last night, thank goodness. Photo of Wiggi and his Mum, super cute ♥
We utilised the remainder of the day to catch up with family, blogging and prepping for our next sail day tomorrow. For those who may be considering their own trip by boat, car or caravan we have found Starlink internet service to be excellent. There is a one-off charge to buy the required equipment and then a monthly access fee. As with these types of services there are differing plans depending on your usage and location. When we are within territorial waters or near shore, we can access the internet, make phone calls, watch television and so on.
Another tidbit is the origins of the name, ‘Monkey Mia’. The Mia part of Monkey Mia comes from an Aboriginal term for home. The ‘Monkey’ part isn’t as straightforward. Many believe that the Monkey part refers to the name of a ship which visited the area, while others believe it refers to pet monkeys that Malaysian pearl farmers, who worked in the area during the 1850s, would have onboard. Either way it’s a great name. Click here for anchoring information https://seagoddessadventures.com/monkey-mia-anchorage/
Carnarvon
We departed Monkey Mia just after sunrise, escorted for a short time by Wiggi and his mother at the starboard bow. There wasn’t enough puff in the wind to sail and the current wasn’t in our favour so we motored to Carnarvon, just a tad over eight hours in total. We docked at the Carnarvon Marina and Boat Harbour, and will stay for two nights. Essentially a refuelling stop, we’ll also fit in a top up shop for fruit and vegetables while we are here. We met the husband and wife crew from SV Breezy, who are berthed next door. Talk about a small world, they are from Adelaide and reside at North Haven essentially next door to 35 South Marina (where we lived aboard for three years). Had lots of good chats together while we were here.
The only supermarket in town is Woolworths, and online delivery is not available to this marina. Our only option was to walk, ride our bikes or get a taxi. Apart from a trip to Woolies, Peter also wanted to get some bits and pieces from the hardware store. Collectively our shopping would be quite heavy, so a taxi there and back was the go. The taxi dropped Sandra off at Carnarvon Central shopping centre, then continued on to take Peter to Mitre10. The plan was that Peter would walk back and we would meet up for coffee at the Centre.
The shopping centre was very small with Woolworths dominating the centre space. A number of businesses had obviously closed down and were empty. Fruit, vegetable and grocery prices were more expensive, significantly so in some instances though this wasn’t unexpected. Sandra was just finishing up at the checkout counter when Peter arrived. He had been walking along the road and a car pulled up, the guy (Paul) asked Peter if he needed a lift. Took Peter back to the marina to drop off the bits and pieces he had bought, Peter showed him around the boat, then drove him back to the shopping centre all the while chatting as though they had known each other for years. There is something truly unique about country people and living in the country, we’ve both experienced it time and time again.
Now it would be no surprise to family and friends that our top up shop included alcohol, but the local liquor store didn’t open until midday so, along with a few other people, we sat and had a coffee while we waited. Once the doors opened everyone made a beeline for the doors. Once inside, Sandra looked after the shopping trolley while Peter had a look around. The guy behind the counter must have pegged me for a tourist because he called me over and told me about the alcohol restrictions that applied in the town. However, these restrictions did not apply to tourists, but as we were purchasing more than the allowable daily limit, I had to fill out a form with my full name, address and ID details. We presented the form to the checkout operator who also looked at my ID. We passed the tourist test, and with all our bits and pieces got a taxi back to the marina.
That evening we joined the crew from Breezy for dinner at the Carnarvon Yacht Club. We all rode our ebikes and arrived just as the staff were putting food into the bay marie. It was ‘Retro Night’, Apricot Chicken, Irish Stew, battered sweet and sour fish, boiled rice, medley of vegetables, bread rolls and butter, with sticky date pudding and cream for dessert. Cost $30.00 each, wine $7.00 per glass red or white. It was serve yourself, and we were so busy chatting that we left it a bit late to head over. Oh dear, most of the mains had gone …. rice, some veges, gravy/sauce and some bread rolls, dessert was all gone. We just made do with what was there and ordered another wine. Later we were joined by another husband and wife crew, who own and sail a catamaran Catalina II based at Mandurah. A great night …. until Sandra fell off her bike, again!! No idea how or why it happened. More embarrassed than anything, as everyone came rushing over to make sure I was okay. A bit nervous riding back to the marina, but we all got back okay. Straight to bed and let sleep takeover. A bit sore the next morning, luckily other than prepping for our departure tomorrow we had planned a quiet day. Peter made shade cloth blinds for the back of the boat ……. worked a treat and will be really useful as we head further north.
Last day in Carnarvon and we spent the morning going back and forth in the dinghy to the fuel dock. We tied off to a rickety and rusty ladder which Peter used to access the jetty landing while Sandra tied a line to a series of jerry cans. Peter hoisted them up, filled them from the bowser then lowered them back down to Sandra in the dinghy. Back to the boat, offloaded the fuel into the onboard fuel tanks then back we went ….. rinse and repeat, rinse and repeat until the fuel tanks were full. Click here for our review of Carnarvon Marina and Boat Harbour https://seagoddessadventures.com/carnarvon-marina-and-boat-harbour/
After saying farewell to our mates from SV Breezy we departed Carnarvon for an overnight sail northward to Coral Bay. Us and a thousand bush flies. (Due to the lack of rain, there has been an infestation of flies throughout warmer parts of WA. Two hours of swatting and feeding the fish we had them under control). Initially with 18- 22 knot winds, and the mainsail and Code0 deployed, we were making good headway. Overnight that changed, and with a strong opposing current, short wind chop coming one way and swell the other, we were experiencing rocking horse conditions. With about ten hours still ahead of us we reefed the mainsail; Code0 in; and changed course twice. Initially towards shore (easterly) then back northwards. Sea state was slightly better, but winds continued at 20-28 knots so it was full on.
By mid morning conditions had moderated and with the mainsail and headsail deployed, and both engines on we were able to get some traction, in terms of both speed and distance travelled. Then around 11-ish Peter spotted a blow off our port side about 350 metres out. Our second whale sighting this trip. We waited patiently to see whether it would surface, and we weren’t disappointed, not only did it surface it breeched. Its full body out of the water before slamming back in, just spectacular. The remainder of our trip was uneventful, arriving and mooring at Coral Bay just before sunset. Essentially a rest stop, we plan to be here for two nights. Click here for our review of mooring at Coral Bay https://seagoddessadventures.com/coral-bay-mooring/
Norwegian Bay
Our next hop up the coast would take us to Norwegian Bay, but first we would back track along our inbound route through Coral Bay avoiding huge carpets of weed. The weed can be likened to a super large bunch of brown grapes with a thick central stalk and branches flowing from this. The current often brings several of these together, and they get tangled thus creating a carpet effect on the surface of the water. If it clogs the water intake valve of the boat engine/s or wraps around the propeller it can cause minor – major damage. So avoiding the really large patches is advantageous.
Great sailing conditions today, we were due a break. Two whale blows in the distance off our port side, didn’t breech though. Mid-morning we noticed a plane circling overhead, not once but three times. We didn’t think anything of until a fast-approaching fisheries boat pulled alongside, gave Peter a thumbs up and took off. Obviously checking if we were illegally fishing in the No Fishing Zone. Ningaloo Reef begins here, hugging the mainland and stretching northward for miles. Several shipwrecks charted on or near the reef, a paradise for divers and snorkellers. And there were several boats at anchor there, whilst we remained offshore.
Norwegian Bay is huge and absolutely gorgeous. Clear aquamarine water, tick. White sand and large pristine sand dunes, tick. Dolphins swimming, tick. Azure blue sky, tick. Rusted remnants of a whaling station on one section of the beach, umm, didn’t expect that! We took the dinghy over to the old whaling station and chatted with a local family who are frequent day visitors to the area. They provided some history about the whaling industry there and information about some of the equipment left behind on the beach and behind the sand dunes. They also warned us about the presence of asbestos material, where we could go and where we shouldn’t go. No signs on the beach, but we did note a warning sign on the beach access road when we walked around that way. Took lots of photos, before heading back to Sea Goddess for a quiet dinner and evening aboard. Click here for our review of the Norwegian Bay anchorage https://seagoddessadventures.com/norwegian-bay-anchorage/
Photos of the old chain mechanism that was used to haul the whales up onto the beach, and remnants of several old boilers.
Tantabiddi
We upped anchor at Norwegian Bay at 0445 to travel to Tantabiddi, about 60nm away. A full moon provided a good visual of the bay and we used our track from yesterday to avoid the shallows and reefs. It was an easy motor-sail, passing two sea snakes heading south with the current and two dolphins before reaching the well-marked entrance channel to Tantabiddi. Peter had booked a WA Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions mooring here, but we could not get the large mooring ball to stop going under the bridge deck and between the hulls. With high potential for damage to occur, and after two attempts we moved and anchored with no problems. Once anchored, a resident turtle who we would see throughout our stay here, swam passed. So, we knew we were in a good place.
Tantabiddi is not a town, it’s a jetty, a landing, a toilet block and a meeting point for commercial tour operators and tourists. By 0730 every morning the car park is full, with up to ten buses plus private cars in the car park. We had no luck getting a spot to swim with the whale sharks, only 10 people per tour boat are permitted, and tours were all fully booked till June 2025. ($500.00* per person for the whale shark swim, $300.00* per person as an observer and to snorkel in a nearby reef). A spotter plane goes up each morning to check if any whale sharks are around and radios the tour boats. (They had a long wait list for cancellations so that wasn’t an option given we were only here for a couple of days).
However, we did enjoy having a snorkel around a reef located about 300 metres behind Sea Goddess. We tied up the dinghy to a mooring ball out there, put out a safety line and in we went. Gorgeous tropical fish of all sizes and colours, however the coral was mostly dead but there was some big bombies, (vertical coral outcrops), some so wide and tall they were almost out of the water. The afternoon was rounded out by sundowners aboard Catalina II where Sandra was introduced to homemade, coconut flavoured rum with a good dash of pineapple juice and ice. Yummy!! Click here for our review of mooring and anchoring at Tantabiddi https://seagoddessadventures.com/tantabiddi-mooring-anchorage/
It was a long 124.5 hour nonstop sail from Tantabiddi to Grantheaume Bay, Broome. Initially we delayed our departure due to strong wind gusts, and when we did leave, we had to tack due to the wind being on the nose. With the tide also against us our speed was falling. So, we put the engines on and motor sailed while we waited for the forecasted wind change. We also made the decision to scrap our planned overnight stops and head straight to Broome.
As we passed the naval telecommunications base at Lighthouse Bay (just north of Tantabiddi), the sea state started to get very messy. It was hot and humid and as night fell, we could see lights from a gas processing plant on the horizon. We continued to motor sail that first night and for the next 24 hours as the wind had dropped to 4 -12 knots. We passed ‘pancake’ shaped islands including Barrow and North Sandy Islands, and lots of oil and gas wells, cargo ships and tankers. The largest one that we saw was a tanker, Orange Phoenix 300 metres long, and 50 metres wide, it was massive. We became aware that an adverse weather event was predicted for later in the week, and our plan was to head to Broome as quickly as possible to take shelter. Distance from our current position was 360nm which was doable in the expected timeframe.
At 0400 hours of Day 4 the predicted adverse weather event landed, early!! For the next 48 hours we copped some atrocious weather, we were battered by a series of squalls. Winds 29+ knots, short chop waves 1 – 1 ½ metres with the occasional 2 metre one thrown in, and seas like a washing machine. Peter was up top reefing the mainsail Sandra at the helm bringing the lines in, luckily the head sail was already reefed. (Unfortunately, in the process our sail bag ripped and will have to be replaced). By 1600 the next day conditions had not abated one bit. Short, high chop directly in front, sea water hitting the front windows and pouring along the hulls. Cooking, doing anything really was nigh on impossible, crackers were the go with the addition of cheese when the sea state permitted the use of a knife. If you’ve ever been on a waltzer or a rocking horse that never stops that’s what it was like, only you can’t get off. There was nowhere to run and no place to hide. Except if you happened to be a bird, every night we had at least one resting on the boat and gone by sunrise. Oh, to have wings!
Broome
Finally, by mid morning of the last day (Day 5) we could see land, and coincidentally the sea state began to settle. We anchored in Grantheaume Bay, Broome around 1730 and our priorities were shower, food and sleep. And we thoroughly enjoyed all three. Click here for anchorage info https://seagoddessadventures.com/grantheaume-bay-broome-anchorage/
The next day was Saturday (1st June), and we spent the morning checking the boat and sails for any damage, cleaning, and some pampering. Just after four o’clock we took the dinghy to the beach, and walked to where we could see all the action in progress. People sunbathing, swimming, playing ball games, kids paddling and building sand pies with their buckets and spades. Two tourist boats meandering close to shore, one a stink boat the other a lovely old ketch. As we passed the Surf Life Saving Club and Cable Beach Resort, we could see lots of 4WD’s parked on the beach up ahead. Then we saw what we had come to see, a camel train, in fact three trains spaced apart, loping along with passengers atop. Sandra made a beeline to a lifeguard standing next to his ute and asked him where the best place was to get some good piccies. He happy obliged, and we ended up right in front of the ‘red’ group with 10 camels, perfect.
After getting our happy snaps we made our way to the bar for a wine and to watch the glorious sunset. Just sitting there enjoying the view and the ambience when all the camels, sans passengers, one after another walked in front of us along the road. Couldn’t believe our luck. Sitting across from us was a couple from the Sunshine Coast in Queensland on a 12 week caravanning trip. We chatted for ages about our respective trips and as we did, we were slow to notice night descending. By the time we left and got to the beach the only available light was from the restaurant/bar and the surf club. Once we were passed these points it was pitch black, no moon.
We walked and we walked using the torches from our mobile phones to locate the dinghy, which is mostly dark grey in colour! Don’t know if you’ve noticed but it can be really difficult gauging distance in the dark, and the further we walked we became concerned that we had missed it. Then Peter saw a white sign erected close to the sand dunes about having dogs on the beach. We had passed this on the way, so we now knew the dinghy was further along. Once we spotted it, we realised how far up the beach it was, which meant we would need to humph it all the way back to the water. We do have wheels on the back, though they can sink into the sand. Anyway, after pushing and pulling we inched it forward, finally 45 minutes later it was in the water, we were in the dinghy, and headed back to Sea Goddess. Next day was a quiet one, we were both a bit sore from all the shenanigans last night, Peter’s back, Sandra’s shoulder. Planning our next leg, organising visitor passes for some of our stoppages in The Kimberley, investigating and booking marinas for upcoming stops it was all useful.
Once again, while we were close to shops, we took the opportunity to replenish fruit, vegetables, small goods and buy a loaf or two of bread to replace our never-ending onboard supply of wraps. Sometimes you just want some toast. We took the dinghy to a sand area next to Grantheaume Point, this area is only accessible at low tide. At least a dozen 4WD’s and even some camper vans were taking advantage of parking on this area. People on their beach chairs next to their cars just chilling, dogs and children enjoying themselves running here and there. Peter dropped Sandra off and returned to Sea Goddess.
Rather than catching a cab Sandra decided to get some exercise and walk to the main shopping centre, according to Google Maps about 6.5 kms one way. Reaching the main road into town it was a matter of turning left and just following the dusty red ochre shoulder. Native trees and bushes on the left would lead to the sand dunes, beach and sea; cyclone fencing lined with bushes marked part of the airport boundary on the right. Cars, scooters, trucks, buses passing by, and I could see a large green road sign in the distance which pleased me no end. A few minutes later a car stopped and asked if I wanted a lift. I was so happy to see the car and the lady driver as I had done a really dumb thing. In my haste I’d forgotten to bring a hat and water, and it was super hot. She was in Broome for some R&R after presenting at a conference in Perth and had hired a car for the day. And an Adelaidean too! We chatted all the way and within 10 minutes we were at the shopping centre.
Finished my shopping at Woolies, just about to hunt down a taxi to find that she had finished her shopping and was waiting for me. I was gobsmacked and could not believe she would have done that; so unbelievably kind and generous. Went out of her way to drop me off at the access road leading to the beach, where Peter was waiting with the dinghy. I was so appreciative and hope if our paths should cross sometime in the future I can repay her kindness in some way. As Peter and I headed back to Sea Goddess we noted the increasing number of small cruise ships anchored in the bay, for example Kimberley Quest and Discovery One to name just two. We may meet up with them as we head north to The Kimberley. Bucket List Item Number 2 – here we come, Yippee!
*Prices correct at time of publication.
