Sailing Australia

Duration: 56 days

After refuelling we departed Breakwater Marina Townsville on the 23^rd  of September initially retracing our route through Townsville waters for an overnight stay at Magnetic Island. Though this trip, we approached the island from the south side. Passenger and car ferries as well as small cargo ships dock at Nelly Bay on this side of the island. Lots of accommodation and resorts here (high rise apartments and cute chalets) as well as a small marina. We continued along the southeast coastline passing Bremner Point with huge rock formations, Alma Bay next door, then Florence and Radical Bays which we saw from the land side on our previous visit here. As we continued motoring towards Horseshoe Bay and with the wind in our favour, we took the opportunity to bring the headsail down. We noticed a hole on the luff a few weeks back which has been getting progressively bigger. So once anchored, and until we can organise a replacement sail, Peter took the opportunity to get his sewing kit out and patched it. Nice job too.

We were up at 0530 to prep for our trip out to Wheelers Cay for some snorkelling. Though very quickly we were being hit by strong 18+ knot winds, and a strong head on chop. By 0900 Peter decided to abandon the trip to Wheelers Cay, as it would not be suitable for snorkelling in these conditions. So, we changed course southward, unfortunately for us the sea and wind conditions continued to be challenging. We passed Cleveland Point and Mount Cleveland before finally anchoring for an overnight stay at ……. Cape Bowling Green in Bowling Green Bay. Where do they get these names!! A long skinny flat sandy cape which stretches in a shallow arc. And to the naked eye it is so flat one could liken it to a bowling green. Strong ESE winds continued overnight, but the anchor held which was the most important thing.

Another early start saw us upping anchor at Bowling Green Bay to face another day of crappy washing machine seas and strong ESE winds (up to 20 knots). Around the top of the Cape conditions didn’t improve, as a 1.5 – 2 metre swell was running, initially head on. It was a long and at times uncomfortable motor-sail, until we finally anchored in Shark Bay at Cape Upstart right in front of huge heavily vegetated hills, just gorgeous. Houses were sporadically clustered in two’s and three’s along this part of the bay. By sunset a number of other boats had joined us in the bay, no doubt taking shelter from the unsettled conditions. We couldn’t resist the temptation to stay here for another night, just a beautiful spot to chill. Photos below of the view from our anchorage, then round the corner looking back on the headland.

Gloucester Bay

We upped anchor at Shark Bay (Cape Upstart) at 0700, and motor sailed around the headland. Initially low cloud and mist reduced visibility as we crossed Abbot Bay, but by the time we got to the coal loading facility on the other side (Point Abbot), it had cleared. Then passing Bowen, regarded as the capital of north Queensland and surrounded by land rich in minerals, particularly coal. Not a huge coastline presence which was different to other towns we had passed thus far, though Peter who has visited here previously remembered the town being quite spread out. Then it was onto our destination for the next few days, Gloucester Bay. And not just a destination but a celebration as well.

We sailed here from Brisbane in September 2020, and Cape Gloucester was the starting point for our journey south then west to reach Adelaide on 1^st January 2021. So, drum roll please ……………

We have officially completed our circumnavigation of the Australian mainland by boat. Yippee!!

Gloucester Bay sits between Gloucester Island and Cape Gloucester on the mainland. Gloucester Island is the northern most island of the Whitsunday Island group. The Cape is just 60 kms from Airlie Beach, about an hour by car. The beach, two resorts, restaurant and bar are hugely popular for getaways and day trippers. We moored here for three nights and made the most of the beach, facilities and entertainment nearby.

Cape Gloucester Resort has had a few additions since 2020, water slides for the kids and a volleyball area have been added, and there were more shaded palm huts. It was busy, not only was it a weekend but school holidays here as well so there were lots of families making the most of the beach and the pool. (Stinger season doesn’t officially start here until October-November, though we noticed more people were in the pool than the sea). We spent a couple of afternoons at the resort bar and restaurant enjoying the ambience, great muso’s, and amazing cocktails. We didn’t eat here but from what we could see the food looked yummy with generous serves. Camping or chalet type accommodation is located nearby.

We walked the beach as we did in 2020 around the corner to Monte’s Reef Resort. With a view to majestic Gloucester Island and with Shag Islet in the foreground it’s a fabulous setting. And the weather ticked all the boxes as well …… sunshine from sunrise to sunset, blue sky turning to a sparkling night sky, crystal clear water and sandy beaches. Queensland at its best. Photos below of Monte’s Reef Resort and Gloucester Island.

Just a quick introduction to Shag Islet which sits in the bay but very close to the beach. Situated in front of the Cape Gloucester Resort and to the left of Montes Reef Resort, you can walk-wade to the islet at low tide, you could also swim, kayak or paddle board. For those of you unfamiliar with Shag Islet, it is famous for ‘Shaggers’ the loyal members of the Shag Islet Cruising Yacht Club (SICYC), a social network of cruising yachties and individuals who enjoy any form of boating. The yacht club boasts more than 3500 members from 14 countries around the world. All members are registered as ‘Vice Commodores’, each representing an individual nautical location such as an island, islet, river or bay, which they have some knowledge of, so as to be able to provide advice or assistance to other ‘Vice Commodores’ of the club. The club supports the Prostate Cancer Foundation of Australia and to date has raised a significant amount of money to support prostate cancer research. An annual ‘meeting’ of members at the Islet attracts Shaggers from near and far. To join the club or for more information head to www.sicyc.com.au

Following a great three-night stay, we departed our mooring at Gloucester Bay and made our way through Gloucester Channel, a beautiful passageway between the mainland and Gloucester Island. Then passing Hideaway Bay with lots of McMansions dotted up and along the hillside. By late morning we were motor-sailing passed Airlie Beach with the massive cruise liner Carnival Splendor anchored just off shore. (This is the second time we have crossed paths with this cruise ship, the first time was during an overnight sail from Cape York when it was lit up like a Christmas Tree).

We continued on, passing lots of islands to both port and starboard, including Saddleback and Double Islands to reach Hook Island with Hayman Island next door. (Reminded us of the game shows in the 1970’s and 1980’s when the main prize was a holiday to Hayman Island. Well, we are pleased to report that not one but two resorts are now operating there). We motored through Hayman Channel to reach Stonehaven Bay hoping to find a mooring*. Lots of other boats also on the lookout as well. Luckily there were more mooring buoys available than were noted on our chart, so we were lucky this time round.

*These are public moorings installed and maintained by the Queensland Department of Transport. Most popular mooring fields have moorings of different sizes i.e. linked to the size and weight of the boat which is important if strong winds or a storm blows up. Usage is free of charge, and there is a maximum 2 hour, 4 hour or 24 hour time limit. The mooring ball will have a tag attached or label on it denoting the maximum boat size and time limit. An honour system applies. Having said that we have anchored near mooring fields where boats have been on a 24 hour mooring for three days which is fine if there are other moorings available but not fair to other boaties when all moorings are in use.

Hook Island

The view from our boat over Stonehaven Bay to the island was the typically gorgeous vista we have come to love and associate with this part of Australia. Soaring heavily vegetated mountainside with a pristine sandy beach below. Large rock formations sit either side of the beach with a coral reef not far offshore. Coral reefs abound in this part of Queensland, and we were keen to explore not only the coral but the abundant sea life as well. We had read great things about Manta Ray Bay, which wasn’t that far away. There are a couple of 2 hour moorings here but with the number of tourist boats in the area you would have to be super lucky to get one of those. Our other options were moorings next door at Luncheon Bay or Butterfly Bay, a bit further away but doable.

So next morning we departed our mooring at Stonehaven Bay and made our way along The Narrows, a channel which runs between Hayman and Hook Islands. Peter at the helm while Sandra was on the lookout for a mooring. We couldn’t believe our luck, approaching the mooring field at Luncheon Bay there was a free mooring. We were almost there when a monohull from the other direction burned ahead of us and snaffled it! Honestly, we were so disappointed, it’s like missing out on the last car park during the Christmas sales. Sea Goddess is built for endurance not speed, so we were never going to win that race.

Just on the off chance we headed around the corner to Manta Ray Bay but as we expected all the 2 hour moorings were in use, so back we came thinking to go past Luncheon Bay to the next bay over when we noticed two boats were leaving. Brilliant, we managed to get a mooring here after all. Now to get to Manta Ray Bay for some snorkelling and to check out the coral and sea life ……. when the wind whipped up and the sea became quite choppy. We gave it a couple of hours to settle, then with our rashies on and snorkelling gear in the tender we made our way back to Manta Ray Bay. Wow it was crowded with snorkellers from three tourist boats already in the water, plus people from two catamarans and a monohull yacht. Did we mention it’s a small, sheltered bay? Our solution was to flip the timing of our activities. Snorkel in Luncheon Bay today then come back to Manta Ray Bay early tomorrow before the tourist boats arrived from Airlie Beach. Best idea, as both of these snorkelling sessions were fabulous. Photos below of gigantic rocks at Luncheon Bay, and who knew starfish could be blue. Photo taken on GoPro while snorkelling in Luncheon bay.

Similar to other islands we have visited, the beaches and shallows of both bays were a mass of dead coral, but once past the shallows a whole underwater world opened up. Coral of all types, shapes, textures and colours …. the peach, yellow and mauve were Sandra’s favourites. We didn’t see many fish at Luncheon Bay, but they were aplenty at Manta Ray Bay – coral trout, parrotfish, anemone fish, and lots of others which we couldn’t identify. It was like being ‘IN’ an aquarium, amazing. (No Manta Ray’s though).

The next morning, we moved one bay over to Butterfly Bay. The way the bay is shaped with a long central rock formation gave the bay a McDonald’s M formation, so with a lot of poetic licence we could see how the name came about. One of the things we like to do is take our dinghy around the perimeter of each bay that we anchor or moor in. Each one is different – there may be a beach; rock formations; underwater or exposed reefs; coral, or mangroves, flowering shrubs, and trees. Mother Nature is always very generous and beautiful. Photo below: amazing ‘clam’ rock formation at Butterfly Bay.

By afternoon the mooring buoy was consistently hitting the hull, sometimes very loudly which was concerning as to any damage or indentation occurring to the hull. We tried to shorten the lines, thinking that might reduce this but it didn’t make any difference. As he does each afternoon, Peter checked the weather and strong winds were forecast for the next couple of days, so we decided to leave this mooring and move back to the protection of Stonehaven Bay. Well, it was a race between us and two other catamarans, actually it was more like the tortoise and the hares. Luckily there were enough available moorings for everyone including us, and by maintaining our tortoise tag we saved a bucket of fuel.

It was a wild night with super strong winds and even stronger gusts. And we experienced our first lot of rain in a long time, which we were actually very grateful for as it washed the salt off our decks and windows. We also moved moorings, which is permissible and resets the 24 hour clock. In the afternoon the weather settled so we took the dinghy over to the beach area with a number of amazing onshore rock formations (photo below). Unfortunately, there were also dreaded midges around who just loved Sandra, ugh! Photo: More amazing rock formations, this time at Stonehaven Bay Hook Island.

We left the mooring at Stonehaven Bay on a warm sunny, blue sky morning, and once again retraced our steps through The Narrows between Hook and Hayman Islands, passing Butterfly, Luncheon and Manta Ray Bays, then the rocky outcrops of Pinnacle Point. This next phase of our journey south will see us visiting several islands for 1 – 2 night stops until we reach Mackay.

Whitsunday Island

We motor-sailed along the seaside of Hook Island, as opposed to the bay side, then further south between Whitsunday Island and the aptly named Dumbell Island until we reached Apostle Bay. A beautifully sheltered and tranquil V shaped bay surrounded on both sides by heavily vegetated hills. A haven for turtles, the shiest of sea life, we saw four pop up to check us out in a couple of hours. Sitting in the cockpit with a wine, the only thing interrupting the silence is the occasional bird call. Just magic.

Next morning we headed round the corner to Tongue Bay, a highly popular spot for cruisers, charter boats and high speed tourist boats. We were super lucky to score a 24 hour mooring and once we were settled it was time to explore. The small beach area led to a path with two options – beach or lookout. We decided to take the lookout route first and weren’t disappointed. The easy upward stepped trail led to a lookout with stunning panoramic views over the waters surrounding Whitsunday Island including the nearby islands of Esk and Petrel right round to Whitehaven Beach where we had anchored in 2020. Back down the trail we took the other path which led to a boardwalk and Betty’s Beach. A large silica sand beach, so white you needed sunglasses just to walk on it, which then led to the clearest water we have ever seen. The beach was very busy with swimmers and sunbathers, and with the tide out it was safe for all ages and swimming levels. We hadn’t brought our bathers, so we were happy to walk through the shallows this visit, though we returned the next day for a swim. With amazing views like these its no wonder the islands of North Queensland are a haven for tourists and locals alike.

Haslewood Island

Haslewood sits ocean side of Whitsunday Island, so it was only a short hop under motor to get there. (In the photo above, you can just see it to the left of Peter in the background). This side of the island is a well-known snorkelling spot, with a number of snorkellers already in the water when we arrived. Well, it didn’t disappoint. There were several large coral reef patches with fish darting here and there. The water was so clear, and a perfect temperature for meandering around.

Lindeman Island

We set off the next morning for more island hopping down the Queensland coast. But first we had to make our way through strong tidal turbulence near Martin Islet which sits near the southernmost part of Haslewood Island. From here we turned southwards and made our way between the Islet and Whitsunday Island (Solway Channel) heading for Lindeman Island. An easy three-hour motor sail, passing a gorgeous island called Pentecost with the most magnificent soaring rock formation which can be seen for miles (Mount Pentecost). Then the Anchor Islands and Sir James Smith Island group, before making our way along the channel between Lindeman and Shaw Islands. Photo of Pentecost Island with Mount Pentecost rising skyward.

We anchored at Lindeman Island, then after lunch took the dinghy along the heavily vegetated and rocky island coastline to the Lindeman Island resort. Like the resort at Dunk Island, this one was also pummelled by Cyclone Yasi in 2011. The ruined buildings are still standing, though they are in much better shape than those of Dunk Island. Access to this part of the island is not permitted, but we could see that at least a couple of the villas were lived in. In fact, a bloke came out of one and gave us a wave, we assumed he was a caretaker. A Google search brought us up to speed on what the current state of play is here. Last year the island was sold to a Singaporean company, after plans by the previous Chinese owners stalled. However, we couldn’t find any information regarding future plans for the island or the resort. Guess it’ll remain as is for a while longer.

Next morning around 0500 we were woken to the distant sound of thunder and not long after we were in the middle of a massive thunderstorm with pelting rain and 30+ knot winds. Our first thoughts were to the anchor, and whether it was holding. Luckily for us it was doing its job, we were moving in an arc but holding. Unfortunately, the large monohull next to us had dragged, you could see the disturbance in the water where their anchor had dislodged. The boat was swinging uncontrollably, at times its stern coming towards Sea Goddess. Peter was up at the helm getting ready to start the engines and get us away from them, Sandra was getting ready to retrieve our anchor. Those on board the monohull were hanging in there, trying to manage the situation. In the end they brought their anchor up and moved on. Phew! It was certainly scary, and we’re not just talking about the storm which continued to rage around us for over an hour. By 0700 the main cell had passed – rain eased, the sea state calmed, though we were still experiencing the occasional strong gust of wind. Well, that was interesting start to the day, who says sailing is boring!

Thomas Island

We left later that morning for another overnight stop at Thomas Island. Part of the Lindeman Island Group, this island is owned and managed by Queensland National Parks. We anchored in the sheltered and protected channel between Thomas and Long Islands and were immediately visited by a turtle, checking us out as it swam by. We took the dinghy for a trip around the shoreline and got off for a walk along the beach. Found the National Park sign and trail leading to the top of the highest point, but we gave it a miss as we were concerned about the possibility of more midge bites and ticks. A nice beach made way for lush tropical plants and trees. Bush turkeys gobbling, to let their mates know we were around. Peter found what looked to be the remains of a garden then a fence, some metal pipes and slabs of asphalt. Not sure what that was all about, quite possibly another casualty of Cyclone Yasi, but definitely some sort of structure was here in the past. Four people from a couple of other anchored boats were on the beach. They’ve been here since we arrived this morning and by the looks of them, they haven’t heard of the sun safe message. Back on board for sundowners and finalising our plans for the next few days. At this stage overnighters at Brampton and St Bees Islands with a longer stay at the Mackay Port Marina. Spotted another three turtles, problem is we’re not sure if it’s just the same one swimming around. Ha Ha!

Brampton Island

Sailing conditions weren’t great for our move to Brampton, washing machine seas and the wind was a bit all over the place. We motor-sailed with the main and jib out, seas settled around 9-ish. Closer to our destination we passed the Finger and Thumb Islands and Coffin Island, great names, before anchoring in Maryport Bay Brampton Island.

After lunch we took the dinghy along the coastline to the ruins of the resort. Like Dunk and Lindeman, the resort here was also destroyed, in this case not by one but two cyclones, Yasi then Debbie. We could see the remains of the jetty where day trippers and guests would be ferried from Mackay, and a railway line which ran alongside a man made sea wall to the resort. Similar to the Lindeman resort the external walls and roofs of buildings here are in pretty good shape. However, we understand the water and electrical infrastructure, generator, staff quarters and pool area were severely damaged. A caretaker lives on the island to prevent looting and to maintain what’s left. Then it was time for sundowners. Sharing our journeys and plans, swapping tips and ideas while sipping wine with the owners of Rubicon and Mad Fish who were anchored nearby. Photo below shows part of the resort as is. Behind the rocks in the foreground is the remains of one of the outdoor swimming pools.

We upped anchor at 0815 bound for a mooring at St Bee’s Island, a trip of about 11 nautical miles. Seas were rough from the get go, ESE winds 16-18 knots with gusts much higher, so the initial hoisting of the mainsail was particularly stressful in the conditions. We made our way southwards passing Edgell Rock which had the uncanny appearance of a lion lying proudly on a plinth, with Maryport Island behind.

Scawfell Island

Sea and wind conditions continued to be challenging until we entered Egremont Passage, the channel which runs between St Bees Island and Keswick Island. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the end of the channel the one remaining mooring was not of a suitable capacity for the length and weight of Sea Goddess. So where to now? We needed to find shelter from strong winds predicted to arrive later that night and continue for 48 hours. One thing about Peter, he always has a Plan B and C up his sleeve. So, we backtracked along the channel into open waters and headed east to Scawfell Island. This would take us away from Mackay, our next destination, but was the safest option as we could reach here in daylight and there are multiple moorings available here. Again, we were unlucky here. Every mooring was taken so we anchored in the lee of the island at Refuge Bay. Due to the height of the island and by getting in close to shore, we had reasonable protection from the wind. The Anchor Watch app will also be invaluable here, particularly overnight when we try to get some rest.

Well, we woke up to a grey, windy morning and when the rain fell it was full on. The anchor held overnight with no issues, so we’ll stay put for today and tonight as well. We spent the day chilling on the boat, and as afternoon turned to evening the winds picked up big time. This continued throughout the night, and we were woken several times with the wind howling and gusting 30+ knots. We checked the anchor watch app regularly to a) ensure it was still working and b) to see where we were in relation to the anchor. We were swinging a lot which was to be expected but the anchor held which was great.

Next day any thoughts of departing for Mackay were dashed due to continuing strong winds and unfavourable seas. Whilst things weren’t necessarily calm in Refuge Bay the waters within the bay were manageable and the surrounding hills provided some shelter from the strong winds which were expected to continue until tomorrow morning. We had a better sleep overnight, not as blustery or rocky.

We were up around 0515 to prep for our trip to Mackay, upping anchor at 0600. We put the mainsail up and headsail out while we were still in Refuge Bay. Once we cleared the bay the sails did their job, and whilst the seas were choppy, we were making good progress. Around mid-morning we heard a massive bang, and the mainsail dropped inexplicably. Initially we thought the halyard had snapped, but it was actually the halyard block. What a mess, there was white Dacron all over the helm station and cockpit roofs. We were in a right pickle as the wind didn’t stop, the waves kept coming and we had to maintain our course. Sandra provided overwatch at the helm, Peter got his lifejacket on and with both engines at 1300rpm he attempted to get the mainsail back into the sail bag, but it was just too heavy. So, he changed his approach and used the spinnaker halyard to raise the mainsail to a point where he could manage the sail and the battens; and flake the sail into the sail bag. Not pretty but we got it done!

That wasn’t the only challenge today. We arrived at the marina and the berth we had been allocated already had a catamaran docked there. The remaining space probably would have suited a very small monohull, way too narrow for Sea Goddess. We reversed out of the fairway and headed back towards the marina entrance. As this is happening, Peter called the marina office and got a new berth allocation. We made a U-turn and went back around for another go. As we came around, the newly allocated berth was on the port side, we had set up lines and fenders for starboard side. With three neighbours on the dock waiting to help us, it was a scramble to get everything changed over. In the end we just did what was necessary and finessed it after we had docked. Once all our post sail jobs were completed, Peter went up to the office and came back with a marina welcome bag and a bottle of wine. What a day! It was an early night, and we both slept blissfully to the sound of nothing.

Mackay

We spent two weeks here waiting for spare parts to arrive as well as completing a myriad of maintenance and cleaning jobs. But it wasn’t all work, we were out and about most days taking the opportunity to check out this regional city. Getting around on our ebikes was super easy via the designated pedestrian and bicycle clearway which started from the end of the breakwater, meandered its way southward along Harbour Road, crossed over the Pioneer River to the CBD. (About 7.5 kms each way). A similar path followed the river to a large modern shopping centre, Caneland, a nod to the sugar cane industry which actively operates within the region. For those Adelaideans reading this blog Caneland is about the size of West Lakes.

Each time we headed into town we passed a weatherboard building which housed ‘Kitten Vintage’ offering Devonshire tea, antiques and paraphernalia. Sandra couldn’t resist, and in we went one morning. Each room was busting to its limits with ‘stuff’, it was fabulous as was the morning tea. We left with four martini style glasses, perfect for Friday night cocktails when we move back to Adelaide.

One Saturday afternoon, we left the bikes near the river bridge, and walked along Sydney Street, the main thoroughfare in and out of the city. Similar to Townsville, a number of shops and businesses had closed down. The buildings, from bygone days, were just lovely. Of particular interest to Sandra was the number of Art Deco buildings, a style of architecture and décor which she loves. We just hope they survive. We then left the CBD and walked to Queens Park which showcased the flora of the region and north Queensland.

And then there was this ….. walking along the dock we noticed two guys looking in the water. Curious, we asked what they were looking at. And then slowly these gorgeous manta rays appeared, amazing! 

Apologies for the picture quality, we grabbed this from a video. There were about 10 – 12 in all.

As we continue south, and in light of our decision to end our journey at the Gold Coast we look forward to visiting some new destinations and revisiting some of our favourites.

Middle Island

We left Mackay Marina at 0915 and motored through Hay Point anchorage where 18 cargo ships were waiting to get loaded up with coal. Got quite close to a couple. Then onto Prudhoe Island with a plan to anchor here, but we quickly changed our minds. Firstly, we weren’t happy with the undulating sea floor and the large rocks under the surface which could impede anchor retrieval. And we were already being buffeted by strong wind gusts coming directly at us though valley. Decision made, we backed out and continued southwards. Not optimal as it will mean an overnight sail and most likely we will miss stopping at a couple of islands, but this wasn’t a safe anchorage and anchoring in the dark elsewhere was not an option.

First stop was Middle Island, part of the Percy Island Group and one of our favourite places to visit. Our last visit here was in 2020, and we anchored in almost the same spot at West Bay. We are pleased to report that the charm of this island has remained the same. We took our dinghy over to the island to reacquaint ourselves with the famous ‘Percy Island Yacht Club’ a wooden A frame structure filled with signs and paraphernalia of visiting yachts, some stretching back to the early 1950’s. This time we added to the collection. Peter made a small wooden plaque inscribed with ‘Sea Goddess 2020 & 2024 Sandra & Peter’, given this will be our last voyage the moment was really significant for both of us.

Just a short walk away is the ‘phone’ hut where you will find a collection of books which can be ‘borrowed’ and/or you can add to the collection if you have any books on hand to donate. Coconut palms are scattered along the beachfront, each encircled by whole coconut pods that people have taken the time to place there. Walking trails leading to the homestead or to the highest point of the island, are easily located by rock lined trails. Photo below of Peter in front of the Percy Island Yacht Club, a place which holds special meaning for us and boaties who have and continue to visit here.

Great Keppel Island

We left Middle Island mid morning for an overnight sail to Great Keppel Island. Arriving around lunchtime the next day, we anchored on the southern side of the island to gain as much protection as we could from the strong north – north westerly wind. The other members of the boating fraternity had the same idea, as such it was a very busy spot with boats of all shapes and sizes here. A large tourist boat with a group of high school students kept us entertained as several of them clutched onto a large net that was floating behind in the water while the skipper moved the boat this way and that. We could tell when someone lost their grip as there was much whooping and hollering from those watching from the upper stern deck. A dinghy was on hand to fish whoever it was out of the drink and got him or her back onboard via the transom to much cheering and ribbing. Oh, to be young again!

Overnight wind gusts were just crazy, and with a predicted change in wind and swell direction we needed to move and re-anchor on the other side of the island, nestling at Monkey Bay. A small, sheltered bay surrounded by tree and shrub covered slopes that descend into craggy rocks, and a white sandy beach which stretches along most of the bay. Just lovely. People were making the most of the weather and the water with a ‘Learn To Dive’ boat nearby; swimming; paddleboarding and kayaking. Taking the dinghy across the bay we headed one more bay over to the main beach and resort area.

Like a number of other islands, Great Keppel has had its fair share of highs and lows. In its 1980’s heyday, Great Keppel Island Resort was THE place to go in this part of Queensland, a thriving holiday destination with a ‘party’ reputation. Then the resort closed in 2008 due to the global financial crisis and two tropical cyclones hit the island, Cyclone Marcia in 2015 and Cyclone Debbie in 2017. As we walked along the main beach several buildings in various states of disrepair, were still in place. For all its unlucky history the island remains incredibly popular. During our short time here, there were lots of families, anglers, boaties and the like making the most of the sun, sand and stunning crystal-clear waters.

Making our way northwards along the main beach we arrived at the Hideaway Bar and Bistro which was busy with the lunch crowd. The Hideaway Resort, a series of accommodation cabins sits behind here along with another gorgeous and popular beach (the perfectly named Hideaway Beach, as it is tucked away around the corner out of sight of the main beach area). We came back to the bar the next afternoon, unfortunately no muso but they had a great playlist, so we kicked back and had a couple of drinks on the deck. We could get used to this . PS Freedom Fast Cats operate ferries out of Rosslyn Bay near Yeppoon, with daily transits to and from Great Keppel Island.

Lady Musgrave Island

A visit here has been on our bucket list for a long, long time and we were both super excited to finally experience the stunning beauty of this iconic part of the Great Barrier Reef. Crystal clear sea green water -check; azure blue sky – check; coral reefs – check, sun kissed sandy beach, black tip sharks, turtles and turtle nests, abundant bird life – check, check, check. This island and its surrounding waters had it all.

After an overnight sail from Great Keppel Island, we arrived in the vicinity of Lady Musgrave around 0930, just before the peak of high tide, and we could see at least 18 boats anchored or moored near the island, along with a couple of glass bottom boats and a permanent floating dock-accommodation structure. We were also monitoring a power cat, ‘Reef Empress’, making its way towards the island from the mainland. We drifted and watched its path through the narrow entrance channel until it docked at the floating structure. This gave Peter a visual of the safest route to enter the lagoon. Even at high tide the channel was really narrow but we got through with no issues. All the moorings were already in use, so we found an anchorage spot away from any coral bombies or outcrops. (We didn’t want the anchor or anchor chain to get caught). We waited for low tide before taking the dinghy over to the island and surrounds to scope out possible snorkelling spots for tomorrow.

The island and the lagoon are surrounded by a fringing reef, with the island located on the northwestern side of the reef. There are also horizontally layered rock outcrops on the western side of the island, with the rest of the island being mostly sand. So, we took the opportunity to complete a circular island walk checking out both the shallows and the island beach.

• First stop, over to a rock reef wall to see white tip sharks swimming around. We counted eight while we were there, swimming up and down on the lookout for small fish and crustaceans. Best part, these sharks are not aggressive. See video below.
• As we walked around the island we were being encircled and bombed by a variety of different birds as it was nesting and chick season, and they were in protective mode.
• Further on we saw four large turtles swimming up and down in the shallows, which made sense when further on we found multiple tracks leading from the water to several nests in the sand. They were obviously waiting for night fall to lay their eggs. It is nesting season for turtles as well, and the hatchlings will scramble to the sea during January and February.
• We passed the light tower on which the safety light is mounted alerting mariners to the location of the island, then further on to a large camp site.
• Spotted two hawks or eagles circling overhead being chased by several birds in full protection mode of their eggs and chicks.

Snorkelling is best amongst the large coral patches and coral bombies located within the lagoon in deeper water some 50 – 300 metres offshore of the island.

Lady Musgrave Island is only accessible by boat, so if you and yours are looking to head out for a visit or to camp here ferries depart at least daily from both Bundaberg and 1770.

The Last Leg

The final days of this mammoth adventure will be quite nostalgic as we revisit some of our old haunts, first up Moreton Bay. Following our maiden voyage from France we lived aboard Sea Goddess at the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron for twelve months (mid December 2019 – mid December 2020). Moreton Bay was essentially our back yard during that time and we spent many a weekend sailing and exploring the seaways and islands that make up this gorgeous part of south east Queensland.

Bribie Island

It was a nonstop 49-hour trip from Lady Musgrave to Bribie Island. During Night 2 we were passing the towns and landmarks along the Sunshine Coast – Noosa, the Glass House Mountains, Mooloolaba (where we lived for five years), and Caloundra. For a time, we closely followed the boundary of the Port of Brisbane shipping lane. (By doing so we would avoid any known hazards whilst not impeding the transit of large vessels). In the early hours of the morning, we were in awe as the P&O cruise liner, Pacific Encounter, with all lights ablaze passed us by with about 300 metres to spare. Just amazing.

By sunrise we were motoring along the eastern side of the Bribie coastline before turning at the headland to enter Pumicestone Passage and anchoring just past the Bongaree Jetty. We have always enjoyed our visits here, there is a lovely seaside meets country vibe. Being a weekend the esplanade, beach, jetty and boat ramp were very busy. The Sunday morning markets on the foreshore had a good number and range of stalls. And we enjoyed having a browse before strolling along the esplanade.

Post dinner, we were enjoying a replay of the Edinburgh Military Tattoo on the television when a particularly nasty thunderstorm let loose. Thunder, sheet and fork lightening, heavy rain, strong wind gusts, churning waves and Sea Goddess was bobbing around like a cork in the ocean. One minute the jetty was behind us, the next it was in front of us. Kids, who were having a ball jetty jumping ten minutes ago, were diving for cover. It went on and on for a good hour and a half before the worst of it was over. We were extremely fortunate that our anchor held throughout, and all our onboard electronics were unaffected. However, it took us an hour or two for the adrenaline to settle!

North Stradbroke Island

We departed Bribie the next morning reaching Deanbilla Bay, on the Moreton Bay side vis a vis the Coral Sea side of the island late in the afternoon. The island itself is huge and much of it is uninhabited. Dunwich, though small, is the main town on the island. We have visited here before and apart from more houses on the hillside above the town not much has changed.

With a former leper colony, Benevolent Asylum and old military sites the town has an interesting history. There is also a museum housed in original and replica asylum buildings that you can visit. The museum has a raft of documents and paraphernalia related to the island’s indigenous heritage and community, its colonial history, the leper colony, the asylum, shipwrecks and so on. We were both particularly saddened by a number of unmarked graves which are located just next to the ferry terminal, a stark reminder of how harsh living conditions would have been here in the late 1800’s – early 1900’s. On a cheerier note, there is also an art gallery dedicated to local indigenous art, a craft shop and grocery store in town. We haven’t visited the Little Ship Club which sits to the left of the ferry terminal, but we do know anyone can head in there for a meal and/or a drink.

Perrys Hole near Crusoe Island

On the 13^th November we left North Stradbroke Island in totally calm conditions and followed the island coastline passing Goat and Lamb Islands to starboard, before turning to port and entering Canaipa Passage. This passage runs between North Stradbroke Island and Russell Island, and as per our previous voyage in 2021 it required us to manoeuvre Sea Goddess under electrical power lines. A tricky process requiring enormous skill. With Peter hand steering and perfect timing, low tide and only slight sea conditions, we slowly motored as close as we could to the port side bank traversing underneath the highest point of the lines that we could. Phew, we got through to the other side with no problems.(Photo taken from the stern of Sea Goddess).

Moving on along the passage things continued to be tricky. Over time tidal movement had caused sand and sand banks to shift so the channel depth notations and placement of sand bars on our electronic charts were incorrect, plus the current was not in our favour. This required Peter to hand steer and be particularly vigilant for the entire length of our passage.

By 1500 winds had picked up and we could see clouds building. With thunderstorms predicted for this evening we needed to anchor before dusk. Our previous anchorage spots were unsuitable due to the wind direction, so we decided to keep going. While Peter was dealing with the route and conditions at the helm, Sandra checked the saloon chart for possible anchorages and spotted Perrys Hole next to Crusoe Island. An ideal spot as it would provide the protection we needed from strong current and wind gusts. When we arrived, a catamaran and a small trawler were already anchored with just enough room for us to anchor safely with enough swing room.

After dinner, around 7-ish, the predicted super storm cell came through. Black clouds, rain, thunder and once again the scariest part, sheet and fork lightening. It lasted for about an hour, and it was the longest hour it just went on and on. We were so grateful when it moved eastwards with no damage to the boat. Then came the midges and the mozzies, not unexpected since we were surrounded by mangroves. We had the lights off during the storm so we couldn’t see them, but we could feel them, and they were feasting on both of us. By the time we went to bed there was a whole crowd of mozzies waiting for us in our cabin. It was us or them, we won!

We spent another day and night at Perrys Hole before heading south via the main channel to the Gold Coast. We took a similar route to that of 2021- around Jumping Pin Corner, then followed the coastline of South Stradbroke Island, passing the entrance to Coomera River till we reached million dollar mansion row on the waterway. We anchored in The Broadwater at Currigee, South Stradbroke Island. The island at this point is quite narrow with the ocean only a short walk through the scrub. So close we can hear the ocean waves breaking from the cockpit.

Our last weekend on water has come around quickly. On Monday Sea Goddess will be hauled out so we can begin to ready her for sale. It is with mixed emotions that this adventure and chapter of our life ends. Sandra’s Mum often said, ‘One door closes and another opens’. With this in mind, we look forward to resettling in South Australia and creating a new story. A huge thank you to our family and friends who have supported us over the last five and a half years, we couldn’t have done it without you. Smiles and hugs to you all xx

Travel not to find yourself but to remember who you have been along the way.

Duration: 25 days

This leg of the trip would be one of our shortest thus far, and we were up early to exit the marina with the advantage of high tide. We retraced our passage to Fitzroy Island, and once again the south easterly wind together with choppy seas put paid to any chance of sailing. So, with the engines on and mainsail up for stability we were travelling along the channel between the island and the mainland quite nicely when we almost got cleaned up by a speedy no name fishing trawler. Either he wasn’t going to change course, or he wasn’t on watch. Peter had to quickly take evasive action to prevent a collision, and as he did, we could see that no one was at the helm of the trawler, or the cockpit, or the foredeck. Sheesh, at times traffic out here can be just as risky as on the roads.

Leaving Fitzroy Island behind we motor sailed further south between High Island and the mainland. Then onto our mooring for the night at Russell Island, an odd-shaped island joined by a spit to a gorgeous rock structure, Catalina Rocks. There are reports of pythons on the island, so getting off – that would be a definite NO! (Photo of Russell Island below).

We departed Russell Island at the ungodly hour of 0530 the next morning south bound for Dunk Island. The only benefit of getting up at this time of the morning is the opportunity to see the glorious early morning sky still sparkling with thousands of stars and a newish moon. Just as we were leaving, Sandra saw her first ‘falling star’, speeding downwards over the island into the sea beyond. Just wow! She took the opportunity to make an extra special wish.

We continued to motor sail along the Queensland coastline with a 1.5 knot current in our favour, the SE wind and waves whilst not the best were manageable. Once again along the way we were treated to amazing scenery. Heavily vegetated mountains sloping down to meet turquoise blue sea. Islands, large and small, some on their own others perfectly grouped together. Of note was:

• Russell River with a large low bank of horizontal cloud hovering at the river entrance giving an almost supernatural appearance.
• Johnstone River entrance and Innisfail.
• The large land masses of Double Point and Lindquist Islands sitting closely off the mainland, then
• North Barnard Islands followed by South Barnard Islands and Murdering Point – we wondered how that got its name!

(When we lived in Queensland the weather presenters often mentioned Innisfail, as the township has one of the highest annual rainfalls in northern Queensland. Sandra never knew where it was, now she does ).

Just a tad over 9 ½ hours after leaving Russell Island we anchored between the famous Mission Beach and Dunk Island jetty and spent the evening planning our exploration of the island tomorrow. But before we leave this section here is an early morning piccie of low cloud, in the distance, over the entrance to Russell River.

Dunk Island

We had the perfect start to the day with a lovely sleep-in till 0800, then Peter cooked a yummy big breakfast. With both of us suitably rested and fed we took the dinghy over to the island. As we were securing the dinghy on the shore, we noticed a person on the nearby sand spit holding up a flare with orange smoke billowing through the air. Initially we couldn’t work out what was happening, then movement from above caught our eye with parachutists descending to land just 100 metres or so away. We stayed and watched as three groups made landfall, so colourful, so brave!! Leaving the group behind, and with map in hand, we headed out to complete the Island Circuit Walk …..well the ‘walk’ that turned into an eleven kilometre trek .

Firstly, we made our way passed the airstrip and the ruins of the resort which once upon a time was highly popular with holiday makers, honeymooners and day trippers. The resort was destroyed by Cyclone Yasi in 2011 and since this time the island has been bought by a billionaire who had plans to rebuild. Whilst a section of the resort has been restored for events, the bulk remains derelict which is such a shame. See photo below. (We understand that at this time future plans to rebuild have been abandoned). The island is accessible via private boat as well as a public ferry which provides a drop off and pick up service once each day from the boat ramp at Mission beach.

With island map in hand and leaving the resort buildings behind, we became increasingly perplexed as to the location of a path which led to the summit of Mt Kootaloo. The map said it was there but walking backwards and forwards all we could see was dense scrub. When all else fails, ask the locals. A small group were gathering oysters from nearby rocks and by the looks of things there weren’t that many left to gather. We were in luck, one of the men led us through the scrub until we could just discern the beginning of a dirt path. Up up up, we went until we reached the summit. Gorgeous island and sea views, as well as information about a WWII Radar Station previously located here. Then we descended until we reached a signed path for Coconut Beach. Not sure we got the right path, as it looked like it hadn’t been used in a while. Lots of debris and compost on the path; fallen trees and large branches across the path as well. Sandra tripped on a root or a vine and went down like a ton of bricks. Some scratches and a banged shoulder but no major damage so we carried on. At times the path petered out and we had to take a calculated guess as to where to next, lucky we chose well. Eventually the path led us to a beach with massive rocks and amazing trees, then onto Coconut Beach lined with coconut palms of course. By the time we could see the spit where the dinghy was parked our hips and knees were screaming and we were tiring. We soldiered on along the last bit of beach till we reached our dinghy, we were fortunate that it was partially in the water, so it wasn’t difficult to get her floating and the engine on. Back aboard Sea Goddess we got all the required tasks, including a stretch, completed asap so that we could sit down and enjoy some cheese, salami and wine. Ahh, bliss!! Now for an early night.

Check out our photos: Peter on the Island Circle trail; the view from the summit of Mt Kootaloo; Coconut Beach; low tide.

Hinchinbrook Island

From Dunk Island we motor sailed all day passing Thorpe, Bedarra, and Wheeler Islands – along with Dunk these are all part of what is known as the Family Island Group. Then onto larger Coombe and Goold Islands to starboard; and the Brook Island group to port.

We approached Hinchinbrook Island from the seaside (as opposed to the internal channel between the mainland and the island), making our way between Cape Sandwich (for real that’s its name, possibly after the English peer Lord Sandwich?) and tiny Eva Island. Then across Ramsay Bay with its long pristine sandy beach and stunning Cardwell Mountain range in the background. Mount Bowen is the tallest peak at 1120 metres high. Just in front, and about halfway up the mountainside sat a singular peak called ‘The Thumb’, (and aptly named). Then passing Agnes Island, joined to the mainland via a rocky ledge at low tide. We were buzzed by a grey non-identifiable helicopter a couple of times in this area, we assumed by Border Force or fisheries, but unlike previous encounters we were not contacted for ID this time.

At 1430 we anchored in Zoe Bay, surrounded by lush green mountains and with a waterfall seen flowing at one end, this would have to be the most beautiful anchorage spot we have stayed in thus far. Another hidden gem.

Next day we planned to walk to Zoe Falls after lunch, just needed to wait for low tide. Timing couldn’t have been better as Sandra’s shoulder was quite sore as a result of her recent fall and both of our legs were aching, reminding us of the 19000+ steps we each did on the Dunk Island trail. So, some downtime in the morning was just the ticket. Once we could see the large expanse of sand signalling low tide, we took the dinghy over to the entrance of a large creek (where fresh water from Zoe Falls meets the bay). Once again mangroves lined the creek, so we kept watch for any movement in the mangroves or creek itself, and as we walked through a sandy-mud flat to a sign next to a camping ground. We easily found the path to Zoe Falls, a similar trail to Dunk Island. Leaf litter and roots crossing the path, and a bit rockier like an old riverbed in places. Then we had to traverse the creek which was flowing quite fast, stepping over large and small boulders as we were wearing thongs (Duh!). The path on the other side had a reasonable incline and placing your foot in some of the gaps between rocks etc was tricky at times. Then we arrived at the falls. With a large clear pool and flat round rocks at the bottom, surrounded by large and small boulders, and with trees and shrubs encasing the fall and pool area it was both serene and beautiful.

We took lots of photos then made our way along another path intending to reach the infinity pool above. Well, the path was more like a goat track, we had to hold onto tree trunks and low branches to find our footing and maintain our balance. Once we reached a set of large boulders with a knotted rope to heave yourself up to the next level, Sandra called it quits. Peter continued and had a swim in the top infinity pool. Sandra returned to the falls area to have a chat with hikers* and other visitors sharing stories from our journeys thus far. When Peter arrived back, we returned along the path to the dinghy and Sea Goddess where we immediately began prepping for our overnight sail to Townsville.

*We caught up with several hikers who were completing the Thorsborne Trail on the island. Best completed between April – September it is a four-day 32 kilometre walk through Hinchinbrook National Park and is rated one of the top ten walks on the planet. That’s impressive! It’s BYO everything, you get dropped off by ferry and four days later the ferry returns to pick you up. If you want to know more about the trail and trail guides head to the web.

With the current in our favour and seas only slight we motor sailed for the first part of the journey to Townsville, averaging 4 – 5 nm per hour. The main challenge being the erratic behaviour of fishing trawlers who were out in force on a moonless, cloudy night. By 0700 we could see Townsville in the distance, and before long Castle Hill, the port and high rise buildings were easily discernible. 0830 we were docked at Breakwater Marina.

Townsville

From our experience Townsville is a tale of two cities, the ‘old’ established section, close to the sea and the port; then further out the ‘newer’ housing development areas with large shopping centres and a large retail hub which includes Bunnings, Good Guys and the like. As we were located in the marina it was easy to explore the older part of town. Most mornings we walked The Strand, both a road and wide walking/cycling path that hugs the main beach. Popular with locals and tourists alike The Strand extends from the commercial port and SeaLink terminal at one end to Kissing Point at the other. It is such a pleasurable walk passing Tobruk swimming pool where the careers of a number Olympic medallists began; views over the sea to Magnetic Island; a hugely popular water park; lots of picnic tables; fountains and art works dotted along the route all covered by a canopy of established macadamia and other tropical trees. At the far end there is a seawater pool, that can be used all year round, and a track that leads upwards to Kissing Point. Sitting atop a hill with uninterrupted views around the bay to the commercial port; across to Magnetic Island and Castle Hill behind. Canons and storage buildings related to the previous military installation remain here. The history of the installation, explanatory information and memorial plaques are dotted throughout the park providing the story of the men and women who worked here.

On the other side of The Strand, restaurants, pubs, apartments, holiday accommodation and a range of eateries line the roadside and are highly popular with locals and tourists. Photos below: The Strand looking over to Magnetic Island; the hugely popular water park; Kissing Point memorial park, and a view to Castle Hill from here.

We walked to the CBD quite a few times while we were here and were surprised by the sheer lack of people. Honestly 10 o’clock in the morning and it was like a ghost town. From what we could ascertain most of the locals head to the newer shopping centres. Many of the beautiful ‘heritage’ buildings within and surrounding the CBD were empty with lease signs in place. Whilst not unlike other regional and metropolitan cities and towns, it was quite sad to see these beautiful old buildings slowly deteriorating and in disrepair. They would have been spectacular in their heyday.

Not far from The Strand sits Queens Gardens with many examples of tropical plants and trees as well as specific herb, rose and cacti gardens. The larger Botanic Gardens are a way out from town, so this is a good option when you don’t have a car. From here we walked to Cook Street to locate the share house that Peter stayed in some forty years ago. It’s still standing as are the mango trees behind, so it was really special moment for him. We also had lunch at the Seaview Hotel, his favourite watering hole back then. Photo below of Queen Gardens where some trees wear grass skirts.

We caught up with some good friends from Adelaide whilst here. They have family who permanently live and work in Townsville so it was great to reconnect once again. They have access to a car and took us to some of their favourite spots. Firstly, up through the hills to the Hervey Ranges Tea Rooms. Super old place, all corrugated iron; windows from the 1920’s-30’s; lots of memorabilia, old photos and paintings everywhere. Gorgeous native birds swooping to make the most of any leftover food on the tables. It was a great morning. We then headed back into town passing the RAAF station where Peter served some 40 years ago. As we drove passed, he pointed out some of the buildings that still remain from that time. Then up to Castle Hill with gorgeous views of the city, and beyond to the south and the north. Photo below shows a small part of the tea rooms, you may have to zoom in to see the birds clearly.

While in Townsville, we welcomed our niece Chloe and her friend Katrina onboard for a week of island hopping, snorkelling and hiking.

Fantome Island

We departed the marina at 0630 and with the sails up and engines on we were making good time. Unfortunately, the sea state was rolly and it was an uncomfortable introduction to motor-sailing for our passengers. Once in the lee of Great Palm and Fantome Islands the sea conditions settled. We anchored in Juno Bay on the west side of Fantome Island by late afternoon and took the opportunity to head over to the beach for a look around. Whilst Chloe and Katrina had a swim, Peter and I walked up to the mangroves at the southern end, then down to an outcrop of rocks and sand spit at the northern end.

The island, part of the Palm Island Group, has an interesting history. In 1926 a lock hospital was built here by the Queensland government to isolate Aboriginal people mainly for treatment of venereal disease (now referred to as sexually transmitted diseases). Then in 1939 a leprosarium was established on the island. After World War II the ‘hospital’ was closed, and by 1965 only the leprosarium remained. It was administered by a Roman Catholic nursing order until 1973, when the inhabitants were moved to Palm Island and the area purged by fire. The island is the site of 200 graves. (Reference http://www.des.qld.gov.au/heritage-register ). (NB Dates vary by a year or two depending on the website). We discovered the foundations of several buildings on both sides of the island as well as the remains of a church and a plaque.

The next morning the sea state was rough with strong wind gusts at times, not great for snorkelling. So, we all walked to the channel between Fantome and Orpheus Islands. The spit on Fantome was more apparent due to low tide. Lots and lots of coral, shells, rocks etc. Chloe with her background in marine biology was able to point out and explain a lot of what we were seeing both on the spit and in the water. Photo: Between the rocks and the trees is a huge pile of dead coral washed up at high tide. A natural phenomenon that we have seen on many north Queensland beaches in our travels.

From here we headed back towards the middle of the island, and using a web based map we were able to locate the foundations of the single women’s quarters, main lazarette and the building that housed the supply centre. Then we walked through tall scrub to the other side of the island and located the concrete edges of a road, a memorial, the remnants of a church and water tanks. It was really thought provoking as we considered the isolation and conditions of those times. It must have been a terrible life for those who came here.

Returning to the boat, we upped anchor for a two hour trip around the corner to Pioneer Bay Orpheus Island.

Orpheus Island

The next morning, we took the dinghy over to an area that was home to a large group of clams. (Peter told us that a guy had seeded the clam patch in the 1980’s). Once we reached the clam area, the water was perfect, and we could see them just under the water. Most of them were open due to the sun, just amazing. But the tidal conditions weren’t quite right for snorkelling, so we took a quick tour around the nearby coral and bombie area before heading back to the boat to get ready for an island hike.

The island map wasn’t great, and it took us a while to find the track, but once we did, we made our way to the ruins of a stone shepherd’s hut. The track was similar to that of Dunk Island, lots of debris, rocks and roots with some sections overgrown. Concerningly, Katrina got a tick attached to her lower leg near her ankle, which Chloe managed to cleanly remove. Nearing the highest point of the island the track levelled out, and we walked along a path with tall grass on either side. Then the track gave way to a field dotted with large boulders, and stone cliffs that dropped into the sea below. With beautiful views across the ocean, we spotted two whales frolicking around a distance out from shore. Photo of the shepherd’s hut.

Returning to the boat and with high tide approaching, we prepped for the trip back to the clam patch. Peter, Chloe and Katrina all went in for a snorkel, Sandra stayed onboard the dinghy (the waters were a bit too deep and too far from shore for her liking). Once all were back on the dinghy, Sandra put the snorkel mask on, and leaning over the side of the dinghy got an amazing view of the clams and small fish darting here and there. A bit of an everything day, which is just how we like it. Photo below: part of the clam patch taken underwater by Peter using the GoPro.

Rattlesnake Island

We left Orpheus Island at 0830 and whilst motor-sailing out of Pioneer Bay we sighted a solo humpback whale and 4 dolphins. What a great start to the day. We passed several islands of all shapes and sizes as we made our way to Rattlesnake Island for an overnight stopover, anchoring here by mid-afternoon. This island as well as Herald Island next door, nearby Cordelia Rocks and Acheron Island are collectively an Australian Defence Force military zone, though you are allowed to access these islands if no military activity is occurring. Us girls were happy to note that Peter had already checked that nothing was scheduled during our planned time here.

We were also fascinated by the name, since rattlesnakes are not native to Australia. Well Mr Google provided all we needed to know. The island was a spawning area for the elusive rock bass and if the island was named Red Bass Island the powers that be knew that they would be fished to extinction. In an effort to scare fishermen away the island was named Rattlesnake Island. The fact there were no rattlesnakes on the island did not sway the naming of the island as such. So, there you go. We can only assume it worked and hope that schools of rock bass can still be found in the surrounding waters.

Once anchored, we took the dinghy to the beach and immediately spotted a large danger sign reflective of the military activities including laser guided bombs, but there was no sign of destruction or debris on this side of the island. A reef hugs the shoreline with large grey and black rocks to the farthest end of the beach which then made way to a spit which stretched out to sea at low tide. The beach itself was littered with lovely and unusual shells with many intact, as well as bleached pieces of coral and small rocks. We had the island to ourselves, so we made the most of our time here fossicking around, paddling in the shallows, enjoying the sunshine and the peacefulness.

Next morning we motored between Rattlesnake and Herald Islands on our way to Magnetic Island. Strong winds and chop made for a slow and uncomfortable passage with Peter hand steering all the way. We approach Magnetic Island from the north, and conditions improved when we reached the lee of the island and anchored in White Lady Bay. We missed lunch so sundowners were the go, as we all settled in for a relaxing evening.

Magnetic (Maggie) Island

Next morning we took the dinghy over to the beach and the main tourist strip of the island. But that’s not what caught our attention, there were a series of market stalls set up along the foreshore and us girls were all very happy browsing and chatting to the stall holders. Then we made our way to the beach on the eastern side of the bay to begin what became another marathon walk, 20,000+ steps in all*.

The walk was quite challenging in parts but so worth it. Lots of postcard worthy bays and views, clusters of towering rocks, remnants of a military outpost and radio installation, wallabies and two koala mums with their joeys -super cute. Our walk took us to:

• Radical Bay (Photo below)
  
• Coconut Bay
• Florence Bay
• Arthur Bay Lookout (Photo below)
  
• the Fort Walk,
• then back to the beach via Horseshoe Bay Road (Photo of Horseshoe Bay below). 

While we were here we noted about half a dozen large birds that circled above our anchorage looking for a feed. We were able to identify a majestic white tailed sea eagle and a brahminy kite. Two trawlers anchored a short distance behind us at White Lady Bay, and on their return each morning birds of all shapes and sizes would flock to them and sit on their spreaders waiting for the off cuts of their catch.

*There is a public bus that has access by road to the eastern and southern areas of the island. The western and northern parts are only accessible via foot, and both are quite a hoof from the main town and island resorts. It is also possible to bring your own car or a hire car to the island via a car ferry which departs from Townsville. Sealink passenger ferries also run regularly to the island from its terminal near the commercial port at Townsville.

Thank you so much for taking the time out of your day to read our blog. We’ll leave you with this quote:

‘Travel not to find yourself but to remember who you have been along the way‘

(Author Unknown)

For ease of location, we have grouped all the anchorages and moorings we utilised for the Cairns to Townsville leg into one blog. Refer below or click this link https://seagoddessadventures.com/cairns-to-townsville-anchorages/

A separate blog provides a review of Breakwater Marina, Townsville. Refer below or click this link https://seagoddessadventures.com/breakwater-marina/ ‎

Darwin to Cairns

Duration: 31 days

Across the Top End

The first stage of this trip would span Darwin to Cape York, a journey that would take about 7 – 10 days. With the fuel tanks filled; food provisioning complete, and the boat prepped we departed Darwin at 0700 on Wednesday 10^th July 2024. By 1000 we were making good progress with favourable winds and current. We were tracking through Howard Channel, passing low-lying pancake like islands when we got a radio call from a Border Force vessel heading towards us. They were towing a foreign vessel and wanted to pass us on our starboard side. (The general rule is that vessels pass each other port to port). As we crossed, we could see they were towing a small, canopied power boat, and heading to Darwin at a fast clip. Another one of those surprising occurrences that popped up out of nowhere. As we continued through the channel, and about 10 kms from the shoreline a large fire was burning, evoking large plumes of smoke into the clear afternoon sky. Such fires or what we believed to be ‘burn offs’ would become a common sight throughout this trip.

Our first overnight sail took us northwards through Van Diemen Gulf then onto the Arafura Sea passing Blue Mud Bay and across the top of Cobourg Peninsula. By midday the second day winds had picked up (20+ knots), and sea conditions had deteriorated. Moving through Bowen Strait, we made the decision to call it a day and find a rest stop for the night, anchoring just south of Adjamarrugu Point on Croker Island. A large Border Force vessel, about the size of a naval patrol boat sat silently and stationary behind us in the Strait. By the time we were up the next morning it had moved on.

The next few days were rinse and repeat – 3 hourly watches day and night, managing our course, trimming or changing the sails, powering engines up or down depending on the current and wind direction. On Saturday morning Peter noted a change in the weather forecast for Monday. High winds predicted for Monday night so with time on our side we decided to make a run for Cape York knowing we might catch the beginning of the predicted wind change in the last 24 hours of the crossing. (If weather predictions change again, we have anchoring options before the Gulf of Carpentaria, but once we commit that’s it).

Passing the Wessels, a group of islands, shoals, as well as exposed and submerged rocks, we experienced significant water turbulence and choppy seas. These conditions were due to the meeting of currents between the islands; the disturbance of water movement due to the presence of underwater shoals (reefs), and strong winds. We adjusted our course slightly to take account of these conditions. Then from here we made our way to Truant Island and Truant Bank in the Arafura Sea. Based on our specific route this is where the Gulf of Carpentaria will start for us. We reached here at 0200 Monday morning, and by 1820 that day we crossed the Northern Territory-Queensland border. Hello Queensland! And as though to welcome us we were treated to a beautiful sunset. But the best was still ahead. Post sunset, huge dark grey cumulus clouds looking like pieces of coal with embers of heat behind them created a striking post sunset sky. We were joined by a large sea bird for what was to be a rolly polly overnight sail, the start of a turbulent 48 hours. Unfortunately for us, the extreme winds had arrived early.

The rolly polly seas made way for washing machine seas and then we were experiencing 2 – 3 metre waves one after the other. Sea Goddess was rocking side to side with the occasional wave sending everything banging and crashing. Honestly when stuff like this happens, you just move into auto mode, depower the boat by reefing the main sail, headsail in, engines slowed, and hand steering as the autopilot doesn’t cope with these conditions. We nursed Sea Goddess onwards throughout the night and the next day and she performed beautifully. By 1400 on Wednesday 11^th July conditions had moderated and we were making our way through a large shoal area Rothsay, Red, Wallis, and Inskip Banks – all part of the Arafura Sea. The problem with shoal areas is that they tend to be quite shallow, in this instance only a 1 – 3 metre depth in some places. Peter hand steered us through, and at 1600 hours we had officially crossed the Cape of Carpentaria! An hour and a half later we were anchored at Mutee Head, Cape York Peninsula. Seven nights, eight days – we made it .

Cape York Peninsula – West

Mutee Head

After a great sleep and an easy start to the morning we took the dingy over to the beach next to the headland. A large sign informed us that this is a turtle nesting area between the months of July to October, but luckily for us or for them there were no nests close to our landing point. From here we made our way along a dirt road flanked by scraggy bush, native trees and dotted with ant hills of various sizes till we found what we were looking for, a signed side road – ‘WWII Radar Installation’. The remains of the installation, a tall rusty radar antenna, is still in place atop Mutee headland, but everything else including staff quarters was gone or overgrown. The area was of particular interest to Peter since communications was his thing during his time in the RAAF which really laid the foundation for his career in IT. On our return to Sea Goddess we upped anchor and continued northward along the north-western side of Cape York Peninsula. Photos below: one of the many ant hills we saw (this one looks like a tree is growing out the top), and the remnants of the WWII Radio Installation.

Seisia

As we made our way up the coast everything, including the beach, the headland, and all the campers who had set up on the beach were blanketed in a thick haze of smoke from a nearby burn off. We were only about 4 kms offshore and the smell was really overwhelming (felt for those campers on the beach ☹).

On route to Seisia, we passed several small islands and islets before anchoring between the settlement of Seisia and Red Island, with Tuluaa Islet behind. From what we could discern Seisia exists solely to support the transport of goods and people via ferry to and from Thursday Island. Apart from the jetty which is busy 24 hours a day with local anglers, there is a combined caravan park/kiosk/office; an art and craft shop; fuel station; an open shelter for ferry passengers and a goods depot. A few houses dot the shoreline on the south side. Photo below: part of the Seisia esplanade.

After checking the ferry schedule and costs, we made plans to head over for a tour of Thursday Island on Saturday. But first we wanted to ensure we could find somewhere to securely leave the dinghy while we were gone for the day. With that in mind we headed over to the mainland and beached the dinghy before taking a stroll to the craft shop. Back at the dinghy we chatted with a couple of local guys who had a small power boat tied off on the beach. They suggested beaching closer to the jetty, and we were happy with that. Back aboard Sea Goddess, Peter got onto the website to book our tickets only to find all 18 places that were free that morning had been snapped up! We were gobsmacked, we had no idea it would be so popular. But there you have it, lesson learned book first, and work out the logistics later!

Saturday night watching Port Adelaide Football Club achieve a great win against the Richmond Tigers, our attention was distracted by a huge fire behind us which started about 5.00pm and by 7.00pm the whole hillside was a mass of flames. By morning it had either burnt out or been put out. Smoke has been a constant since we arrived in this region. Midmorning and another fire was burning, this one was only a few kilometres back from the beach and the houses on the foreshore. Smoke blanketed the entire settlement and camping ground. Our boat decks and cockpit sprinkled with small, charred bits of wood and black dust. Even finding the dust inside as it entered through the hatches. Will be glad to move on later today.

We upped anchor just before midday, and once out of the channel turned along Endeavour Strait between the mainland and several islands, both large and small. We had hoped to anchor in Punsand Bay which is close to the top of Cape York Peninsula, but the swell was not in our favour so we pulled up slightly before that in a fairly protected area between the mainland and Roko Island.

Roko Island

We had planned for an overnight stay here before heading to the top of Cape York, but after checking the weather for the next few days it wasn’t looking good. A huge high-pressure system was whipping up severe south easterly winds which in turn would have a massive influence on the sea state. So we stayed in the channel between the mainland and Roko Island for four days – chilling, cleaning, catching up with people back home. Oh, and we hit an important milestone while we were there – 200 Trip Days i.e. 200 days since we left Adelaide and started this awesome adventure. Unfortunately, no champagne or wine on onboard, so we made do with a can of diet coke each and a shot of Zambucca . (You might be asking where the Zambucca came from. …… no idea, it’s been moving with us to different locations for a number of years. We think we might have bought it when we were living in Melbourne. Anyway, it was high time we cracked it. Peter enjoyed it, Sandra not so much. We run a dry boat so no alcohol at all while we are underway. That said we can report that by the time we reached Cairns it was all gone).

Cape York

We left Roko Island at 0700 bound for Cape York which is really just around the corner, passing the long shallow beach which lines Punsand Bay. (There is a resort, camping ground and caravan park on part of the bay). Two hours later we anchored between York Island and the top of Cape York Peninsula. Taking the dinghy over to the beach we landed just in front of the path that leads to the ‘point’. Up the dirt path, at times scrambling over rocks, to get to the northern most point of mainland Australia. When we arrived about 8 – 10 people were there, and we took our turn to take photos in front of the famous ‘sign’. A sign which had several bullet holes through it, honestly some people just need to get a life. Photos below: mud flats at Cape York where we beached the dinghy; the ‘holey’ sign; both of us celebrating another tick on our bucket list.

We chatted with some of the other visitors, sharing our stories and where we were all heading. There was a wonderful sense of camaraderie amongst everyone there which was just lovely. People went out of their way to help others navigate the rocks down to the sign as well as taking photographs for couples, families and solo’s. Leaving here we made our way up to the top of the hill where we found a couple of man made cairns (see below). Plus, a stunning outlook over York Island, Eborac Island, the sandflats (due to low tide), and Sea Goddess looking beautiful out in the bay. Looking to the other side we had a view of the beginning, southern coastline of the mainland and a few nearby small islands.

Cape York Peninsula – East

From Cape York we headed south, and it would take fourteen days to reach Cairns. We hopped down the coast sometimes sailing for 24 hour periods, other times sailing from early morning, before anchoring just before sunset. Overnight stops included:

• Shallow Bay – Oh,oh! Not a good start to the morning at Shallow Bay. As we prepared to leave neither the wind direction nor wind speed was registering on our instrumentation. Peter checked all connections, and everything appeared okay. So, there was clearly a problem somewhere else which we will need to get sorted in Cairns. In the meantime, we would use the wind vane at the top of the mast to determine wind direction (just in case you are wondering we don’t have a cockrel on ours), and for wind speed we would take an educated guess based on weather reports, sea state and sails.
• Escape River
• Night Island – We had a three night stop over at Night Island due to a large high-pressure system over the Tasman Sea stretching all the way along the east coast of Australia bringing strong winds and squalls. Sheltering in the lee of the island provided the protection we needed from the intensity of the weather system.
• Morris Island
• Burkitt Island – Phew! No sign of the reported resident crocodile but by the time we reached the island our fuel reserves became a concern. So, Peter introduced a sail plan which involved no engines or judiciously using one engine at a time on low revs plus using the available wind to sail the boat in a zigzag pattern down our planned route (tacking). An effective method for saving fuel, but from a distance perspective extremely slow.
• Princess Charlotte Bay (at the base of Cape York Peninsula). You’d think we were due a break, but the challenges just keep coming. On our way to this anchorage, whilst Sandra was on watch we lost all instrumentation every single screen went blank, and the auto pilot was kaput!! Talk about scary stuff. Sails in, engines on, Sandra hand steering, Peter investigating. Turned out to be a blown fuse to the Instrumentation Network Buss, fuse replaced and voila, all was good. (Well apart from the ongoing issue of having no wind direction or force on the instruments and low fuel).

From Princess Charlotte Bay we continued around Cape Melville, tacking and sticking close to the shipping channel where there is less risk of hazards to be concerned about. Where necessary we radioed cargo ships and tankers informing them of our position and intentions which was well received by the on-ship staff.

When we got close to Cooktown we contacted a staff member of the commercial fuel dock, but there was no space on this dock to accommodate us. They recommended contacting staff at the nearby Fisherman’s Wharf fuel dock where we got the okay to fuel up, but after hours was not an option. Opening hours commence at 0630, and we were determined to be there. We arrived and were tied up at the dock by 0400 hours. Next on the agenda a cup of tea, then a couple of hours sleep. We were up at 0600, ready for Anne, the manager, who arrived at 0630. Filled both tanks ($2.05 per litre) and departed at 0715. Leaving the dock at daylight, we could fully appreciate the surrounding scenic views we had missed in the early hours of the morning. Boats at anchor, or moored nearby, were bobbing in the bay; gorgeous heavily vegetated hills directly in front; and then as we looked backwards to the dock, we could see that the bay was set at the bottom of a lush, tropical hill. Just beautiful. We both agreed we need to come back here at some point in the future. Photos below: A gorgeous little power boat named ‘Mr Nobody’ anchored in the bay; then looking back on the mainland from the fuel dock.

After leaving Cooktown we were determined to reach Cairns as soon as possible even if that meant motoring the whole way. And that’s how it panned out, passing Mount Cook, lovely bays, spectacular hills, Cape Tribulation and more. Throughout this trip we have been struck by how different the sea view is to what would be the road view by car. And so, we are trying to store as much of this sea view experience as we can either through our own memory bank, our detailed trip diary, and/or our photos.

We arrived at the entrance to Half Moon Bay Marina, Yorkeys Knob Cairns around 0300 the next morning, not an optimal time to be arriving at an unfamiliar marina. OMG it was narrow, tight and lighting was exceptionally poor. We slowly made our way through the short breakwater, then into a tight starboard turn – Sandra at the bow with a small headlamp to check out what was what. Rock wall on one side, docked boats on the other. Then it was a sharp tight port turn into the fairway to find our berth. Peter reversed in, and it took us some shuffling of lines and fenders to get Sea Goddess exactly where we wanted her to be, but we did it. At 0345 and we were fully docked, bed never felt so good.

Overall, the trip from Darwin to Cairns was a bit of a mixed bag. As with any long-distance sailing journeys it’s all about the wind, the current and the sea state, and at times we experienced challenges with all three. Rarely at the same time thank goodness! But that aside, once again we have been blown away by the beauty of Australia. The towering majestic, and at times ruggedness, of the mountains and hills; the idyllic post card worthy islands and islets; the crystal clear aquamarine sea, and the gorgeous sunrises, sunsets and night skies. So much to be thankful for.

 Cairns

It has been many years since either of us have visited Cairns, and the marina at Yorkeys Knob is quite a ways from Cairns town centre. Whilst here we walked to the local shops and used public bus services or taxis to reach the nearest large-ish shopping centre at Smithfield or the city.

During our time here we caught up with our nephew and his partner who have relocated from South Australia to Cairns and are settling into the region and lifestyle just fine. Then we were joined onboard by Sandra’s sister Doreen and bother-in-law Ian for a few days island hopping. Day 1 the weather wasn’t great for sailing so we all got our sight-seeing vibe on and caught a bus into the town centre. Walking along we noted the mix of old and new ….. apartments, pubs, tourist shops, eateries, office space. Really no different from any other regional town that relies heavily on tourists and the dollars they spend. We made our way to the Esplanade beginning with lunch at a very trendy bar-restaurant, Hemingway’s Brewery, which overlooked Chinaman’s Creek. An ideal setting with a number of boats anchored and a tropical vista behind. Then onwards passing an array of restaurants and the city-based Marlin marina housing a number of large tourist boats and super boats (both power and sail).

Next along a wide tree lined path to the lagoon where adults and children of all ages were enjoying the water or soaking up the sun rays; then the ferris wheel on the foreshore before making our way back to catch the bus. Cairns is a great city, so easy to get around with an array of activities whether you are here for a couple of days or a couple of weeks.

Fitzroy Island (2 nights)

The next day, and just as we were preparing to leave the marina for Fitzroy Island, we noticed that our fishing rod holder which was attached to the back rail of our boat had been stolen overnight. The base was still in place, but the actual rod holder was gone. Whilst not a hugely expensive item, we were both annoyed and disappointed that someone would do this. Rather than delaying our departure and waiting for reception to open for the day to lodge a report we continued with our plans, with a view do so on our return. (To follow up on what happened when we got back check out our review of Half Moon Bay Marina below).

As we made our way through the marina channel and out into the bay, the wind was on the nose so we motored to the island and picked up a mooring, a 4 ½ hour trip. After lunch we took the dinghy over to the jetty for a look around. Three large ferries shuttled day trippers back and forth from Cairns on a regular basis. Smaller glass bottom boats took people for trips along the foreshore and around the corner to Little Fitzroy Island.

From the jetty we headed left along a busy gravelled and sometimes muddy path which hugged the beach. Passing a resort style hotel and units, and a multi-tented camping ground (currently occupied by a group of high school girls and their teachers), we spotted a sign with a large island map. After considering our options we took the opportunity to check out the best shady spots on the beach for our snorkelling sessions tomorrow. Then decided to walk up the path to a disused lighthouse we had seen on our approach to the island, and maybe onto the summit.

Well, it was a challenging walk with long steep sections (not for the faint hearted), but the scenery from the top was so worth it. Uninterrupted panoramic views of open sea with an array of islands dotted near and far. The lighthouse itself, which was fully tiled on the outside (we’re talking bathroom tiles), was empty and run down. (Just before the lighthouse we saw the path to the summit, another 750 metre even steeper upward climb, and decided that would be a No!!). Heading back down was just as challenging on the knees than heading up, but we all got there. Returning to the jetty we took the path on the opposite side, to the ‘grocery store’ – not a lot here so headed back to the dinghy and the boat.

Next morning we were back at the jetty, then headed to the beach to snag our spot in the shade for a day of snorkelling, swimming and chilling. The beach itself had areas of broken coral which stretched from the water’s edge back to the trees and shrubs. Walking on the coral was difficult and at times painful, so wearing thongs was the go.

There is a coral reef very close to the shore which was ideal for beach snorkelling. Underwater there were lots of colourful fish to see and many different types of coral. Peter went further out and met two large turtles feeding on the coral, really cool. We spent most of the day here and had two long snorkelling sessions, plus a byo lunch on the beach. This was Doreen and Ian’s first snorkelling session, and both caught on really quickly and enjoyed the experience.

Photo of turtle taken by Peter whilst snorkelling at Fitzroy Island.

Vlasoff Cay & Reef

As we were about to leave Fitzroy Island and head to Vlasoff Cay, Peter noticed two whales, an adult and a juvenile, frolicking in the bay. We couldn’t have timed it better, standing at the bow watching them as they made their way out to sea. Later in the morning we spotted another two adult whales, then Sandra was taking a video of a paraglider being towed behind a boat near Green Island when another one popped up. So, 5 whales plus one very large sea snake in total today.

After an easy five hour motor sail we anchored near Vlasoff Cay at 1400 hours and took the dinghy over to check it out. The waves were surging onto the cay which made getting the dinghy up onto the beach really challenging, luckily Doreen and Ian were there to help. We’re thinking it may not be the best place for snorkelling and plan to check again tomorrow. Just as we started to explore the sandy outcrop a helicopter landed with a couple of people on board, but just as quickly took off. It was then we noticed two love hearts drawn in the sand …… had we just stymied someone’s plans for a declaration of love? A marriage proposal? We’ll never know.

Next morning Peter took the dinghy over to Vlasoff Cay to check conditions – lumpy sea and a strong current so we abandoned those plans and headed over to Michaelmas Cay & Reef under motor.

Michaelmas Cay & Reef

We reached the cay in less than an hour, and with no moorings available we anchored near the edge of the reef. Once there we got ready and dinghied to the shallows dodging bombies and large sections of coral along the way. We anchored the dinghy in sand and just allowed it to drift. The waters were so clear, like glass really, and we all had an awesome snorkelling session. We were treated to different types of coral and fish, as well as a small and a large clam – amazing sea life and gorgeous colours, just brilliant. Then we went over to the cay itself, which hosts a rookery for hundreds of sea terns ….. people are allowed on the cay between 9.30 – 3.30, and only to a roped off area. A number of birds were roosting on just a small number of sticks and/or stones; whilst three large white chicks awkwardly followed their mum around. Then as they settled, i.e. as people left, the birds formed distinctive groupings which was something we hadn’t seen before. (Reminded us of school, the cool groups and the not so cool group).

Back on Sea Goddess we were visited by a beautiful large angel fish (yellow, silver and black striped); a large black trevally, and two silver fish with yellow tail and snout. They were either looking for shade and/or food. We threw out small pieces of chicken which the trevally gobbled up before the others even got a look in. We then tried small pieces of cucumber peel, but these was rejected by them all, obviously meat lovers.

We departed Michaelmas Reef/Cay around 0900 the next day and motored our way back towards Yorkeys Knob. We had to abort our attempt to enter the marina due to an extremely low tide – at one stage grounding but Peter was able to back up and get us out into the channel. We planned to anchor and wait a couple of hours for high tide but it wasn’t our day and after 3 attempts to set the anchor (?due to current) we abandoned that idea as well. Onto the next option, we headed further out, planning to drift for 1 – 2 hours. And you know sometimes crappy things occur so good things happen.

As we were heading further out, we sighted 4 humpback whales. Peter cut the engines, and initially they were about a nautical mile away but then they came closer. At one point, one of them actually turned swimming towards us but thankfully it changed direction again in line with the others. They made their way passed us, only about 800 metres off our port hull, then turned and headed out to sea. What an amazing experience, just being in the right place at the right time. And to think if we had docked in the marina earlier as planned we would have missed all this!

Our next attempt to enter the marina was successful, then it was time for ‘unlimited’ shower time, yes!!! To cap off a brilliant week we all enjoyed watching the South Australian Showdown between Port and the Crows. Best of all Port won, Yippee!!! Early start the next morning as Doreen and Ian left for their return flight to Adelaide. Then a couple of days later it was our turn to return home for a week in Adelaide, spending special time with family. Back in Cairns we spent the next couple of days prepping for the next leg, Cairns to Townsville. We are both looking forward to moving on and exploring more of what island delights north Queensland has to offer.

Thank you so much for taking the time out of your day to read our blog, we hope it made you smile. Till next time, take care of you xx

For ease of location, we have grouped all the anchorages we utilised for the Darwin – Cairns leg into one blog. Refer below or click this link https://seagoddessadventures.com/cairns-anchorages-and-moorings/

A separate blog provides a review of Half Moon Bay Marina at Yorkeys Knob, Cairns https://seagoddessadventures.com/cairns-marina/

Duration: 34 days

The first leg of this stage will require an overnight sail to Thomas Bay. To this end we departed Broome around 1400 hours^ on Thursday 6^th June, with good winds and current in our favour, we arrived at our destination almost twenty-four hours later. With Cape Leveque and Leveque Islet at its northern end, the wide shallow bay with a large section of stunning ‘iron ore’ ochre cliffs, and a gorgeous beach provided an excellent rest stop. (^NB Leaving later in the day allows us to arrive at unknown destinations in daylight hours so we can spot any uncharted obstacles and anchor in daylight hours).

Next day, at 2100 hours, we upped anchor at Thomas Bay hours bound for The Kimberley. There was little wind, so engines were on, but we did have the tide in our favour which helped us along. Tides and current will become extremely important and together with wind direction and strength will need to be factored into our sailing and stoppage plans as we move throughout this region.

Peter had the 0400-0700 shift; and when Sandra woke up to take over it was to the startling reality that we were in The Kimberley. Bucket List #2 achieved . As we entered Goose Channel, it was Alice in Wonderland-ish, the cliffs were stacked with chalky white boulders, like something from the Flinstone’s. Then we were passing the famous Silica Beach. (We didn’t stop here as we have visited such beaches in Queensland). As we continued to motor along, the cliff appearance changed to what we would usually associate with this region – tall sheer red sandstone with the low tidal mark clearly visible. Vegetated islands and rocky outcrops dotted everywhere, and the sea was bubbling away like a cauldron. At times, wind against tide and opposing current caused Sea Goddess to move forward side on, at about a 45° angle to our heading, which was disconcerting and it took a while to adjust.

We passed small islets called The Piccaninnies; Galah Channel running between Cockatoo and Irvine Islands, then Parakeet Channel between the north end of Cockatoo and Koolan Islands. (Koolan Island is huge and is currently mined for iron ore).

Next was a stop at a 24 hour fuel barge which sits in the middle of a bay. ULP and diesel $4.00 per litre (We’ll never complain about fuel prices again!). While we were there a tanker docked on the starboard side of the barge to refuel the fuel dock! We got chatting to the operator who told us he does two weeks on the barge and two weeks off. He is based in Broome and flies in and out from an airstrip on Cockatoo Island, then via power boat to the barge. Sitting alongside the power boat was a much larger motorboat where barge operators live while they are here. He also had Drumstick ice creams for sale which we couldn’t resist and treated ourselves. After refuelling we made our way to our overnight anchorage at Silver Gull Creek. A gorgeous spot surrounded by a horseshoe of majestic cliffs and sparkling crystal-clear water. As we take it all in, both of us are in awe, feels surreal that we are finally here. Photos below of the Dog Leg Creek Fuel Barge, Sea Goddess in the foreground and the refuelling tanker in the background.

As we prepare to depart for Silver Gull Creek it’s sunrise, a magical time of the day and the effect of sun rays on surrounding cliff face is stunning. The escarpment is ever changing due to weathering, and with low tide the rock outcrops in the water look as though they are sitting on plinths (like a statue). There is no doubt we’re going to run out of superlatives to describe the magnificence of what we are seeing and experiencing here, and its only Day 2.

Traversing ‘The Canal’ between Koolan Island to the west, and the mainland to the east, it wasn’t possible to sail due to the current flow, so we motored. Through our journey in this region, there are times when the current is so intense that our boat literally skates or slides on top of the water, you have no control without assistance from the boat engines. So whoever is at the helm must be ever vigilant for these eddies and/or areas that look like a circular mirror obscuring the current underneath.

We had the option of going through a gap between Koolan Island and Round Island called ‘The Drain’, even though we only draw 1.25 metres we erred on the side of caution and deemed it too shallow at low tide so we opted for ‘The Gutter’ between Round Island and the mainland. With both engines on we moved through the bubbling water with no problems. This took us into what is known as ‘The Channel’, to the west is the top end of Koolan Island to the east is a craggy group of islands called the Iron Islands. At the end of Koolan Island is a yacht club, Yip sitting high upon the hill. Who would have thought. Honestly, it looks totally out of place up there, and we’re baffled as to where they would get their membership from. The photo below shows ‘The Gutter’.

We continued on, passing a series of islands and islets with contrasting vegetation. Some densely vegetated (like tropical north Queensland or Hawaii), whilst others are basically barren rock with a scattering of spindly pink hued trees here and there. We reached the head of Dugong Bay by late morning and motored across the bay to check out Dugong Falls, unfortunately there was no water flowing. C’est la vie!

Talbot Bay & Horizontal Falls

We left Dugong Bay the next morning at low tide, tidal markings clearly visible on the cliffs with the underbelly on show demonstrates the significant tidal range in this region. Large mangroves were fully exposed; mud flats reached out from the bottom of craggy structures and cliffs, and rocks which were submerged at high tide were now on full display. As we made our way to Talbot Bay there were lots of small, vegetated islets and striated rock formations dotted along our route. After 4 ½ hours we reached the channel to Talbot Bay, passing Slug Island on our way to the anchorage point. When we got a close-up lateral view of the island it really did look like a slug.

As we exited the channel and entered the bay, we noted two cruise ships anchored – Coral Geographer and Scenic Eclipse II. Just by looking at Scenic Eclipse II you could tell it was high end, beautifully maintained with helicopter and helipad atop and towards the stern. A covered staffed platform at water level was in place to assist passengers to embark and disembark from zodiacs which were operated by crew. Once anchored we took our tender along the cliff line to check the bay entrance to Horizontal Falls. Pegged it right, so we went in as far as the narrow gap between the two rocks faces – this is where all the fun happens. Rapids bubbling away, tide still coming in. Peter suggested we wait until this afternoon for slack tide before we get the engines cranked and cross the gap. (Two tenders, fully loaded with passengers from Scenic Eclipse II were also there checking conditions and opted not go through at this time).

We then headed back out to the bay and continued southeast to cruise along the cliff line taking in the majestic surrounds of the bay. Then turned back to the Horizontal Falls Sea Plane Charters pontoon with hotel style accommodation which sits in the water towards the far end of the bay. Several high-powered ribs docked here (these are the ones that you see on the tourist TV shows and can traverse the Falls at super high speed).

Shortly after we arrived back at the boat we were visited by five WA Parks and Wildlife officers in a small power boat. A female and a male officer came forward to the bow and led the conversation; two remained in the small cabin just observing and one was at the side on a handheld electronic device. Conversation was low key, just the usual questions and getting a feel for who we were and our travel plans. Peter showed them the purchased Dambimangari Aboriginal Corporation visitors pass ($55.00 for one month), which allows access to specific areas of Dambimangari country, including Horizontal Falls. They were surprised that we had it! They chatted to us about being croc aware and not leaving the tender in the water. Told us stories about other boaties using gaffe tape to cover up bite marks, so the stories of rubber dinghies like ours being used as ‘teething rings’ are true! We raise our tender after each use, so the risk is minimal, and just in case we do have gaffe tape on board. They gave us a bag with a number of pamphlets about the region before they left.

Mid afternoon with the tide in our favour we kitted up in our Kimberley Coast Sailing Yacht Club* gear and took the dinghy through the first gap in the cliffs i.e. from Talbot Bay. The second gap is much narrower and where it all happens, Peter checked that I was ready, revved the dinghy engine and with the water madly bubbling and swirling we went through the gap. The dinghy was buffeted from side to side, and swung nose to stern a couple of times, it was exhilarating. (We were so glad we had a good sized engine. Anything less powerful and we would have had difficulty controlling the passage). Once through the gap there are large pools of swirling water, and beyond this is a third gap called ‘The Narrows’. Not only was the gap between cliffs really narrow, the water was speedily swirling (even more so than the one we had just came through) there was also clearly discernible drop in the actual water level at the back end. We didn’t feel comfortable going through or exiting this one, so we turned around and headed back through the second gap again. Much more fun the second time as you knew what to expect and it was easier to fully engage and get that adrenaline rush. Sandra caught all the action on GoPro so it will be great to have our achievement captured to show family and friends, as well as for us in the future.

Back to the boat, we celebrated with a glass of wine while we waved to a few zodiacs from Scenic Eclipse II who were headed to the falls for their dose of excitement. The helicopter had been doing a roaring trade all day. As well as sea planes buzzing in and out as well. Both cruise ships left later that day, while we rested up for our onward passage the next day. Peter also organised an Uunguu Visitor Pass which allows us to access several significant sites within The Kimberley, from Careening Bay upwards. Cost of the pass is $100.00 per person and can be purchased from their website http://www.wunambalgambera.org.au

At 0600 hours we upped anchor at Talbot Bay. We’ve noticed that the more north we go the murkier the sea water, probably due to a number of factors including that the water temperature is much higher which promotes a lot more nutrient and growth in the water; the seabed is mud as opposed to sand; the current and tides stir things up as well. So, when we retrieved the anchor and anchor chain both were smothered in gooey mud. Luckily, we have a sea water wash outlet onboard and a dedicated sea water hose, and we used this to wash it off as we retrieved the chain and anchor. Added about 15 – 20 minutes to the process, but is worth it given the reports that any residue mud smells and we want to avoid that in the anchor chain locker.

Motoring along, and once out of the channel, we moved offshore passing lots of islands, islets and rocks. Some of the latter are partially above sea level all the time, others are only visible at low tide. Peter does an amazing job of accounting for these, plus a myriad of other factors including water depth; current; tidal movement; predicted wind direction and force when he is planning our routes.

Melomys Island

After 6 ½ hours we arrived at Melomys Island for an overnight stop. We had just anchored when a large saltwater crocodile just visible above the water line slowly swam passed, about 100 metres from the stern of the boat. (Croc sighting #1). Didn’t come any closer but was clearly checking us out. As an aside, prior to leaving Horizontal Falls we read an information pamphlet on fresh water and saltwater crocodiles and in particular safety measures when moving via sea or land throughout the top end of Australia. The pamphlet was included as part of the package that Parks and Wildlife Officers had given to us. Next morning we followed the island coastline as we made our way to our course for the day. Looking back, we spotted a crocodile, Sandra saw it first, mostly out of the water on a sandbank and it was huge, when I got Peter’s attention it was back in the water. Not sure if it’s the same one we saw yesterday but we’ll log it as Croc sighting #2. Look closely and you can just see it to the left in the water.

Montgomery Reef

Our next destination was Raft Point, arriving midafternoon, the small cruise ship National Geographic Orion was anchored at the entrance to the bay. Lots of zodiacs taking passengers to the mangrove areas, which almost encapsulated the bay, and out to rocky islands to the west of the bay. Just as we were about to anchor, Sandra who was up front noticed a crocodile lurking near the mangroves on the south side of the bay, luckily the rubber zodiacs weren’t close, and neither were we thank goodness (Croc sighting #3). Peter wanted to anchor away from the mangroves and the cliffs, basically in the centre of the bay, but this area created difficulties and the anchor wouldn’t set due to the undulating seabed. So, we moved around the corner to Doubtful Bay – sheltered, peaceful and surrounded by majestic cliffs, just perfect! Photo below: passing amazing scenery as we make our way to Doubtful Bay.

We were up as the sun’s morning glow appeared over the mainland, and made our way to Montgomery Islands, and particularly Montogomery Reef. We passed Steep Island, a massive sandstone structure, shaped like an uncut loaf of bread with rounded top. The sides were steep, deeply sliced (indented) and dropped vertically into the sea. Whilst a craggy outcrop with no name sat nearby. As we motored along, a passenger power cat named Reef Prince was behind us and gaining quickly, so as a courtesy Peter contacted the bridge via radio to clarify their intentions. Their plan was to head across our bow and anchor behind Kimberley Quest, another small passenger cruise ship anchored ahead. So, we slowed up to allow them to pass, eventually pulling up a short distance from their port hull. As we were prepping for our excursion to the reef, we were contacted via radio by a senior member of Reef Prince inviting us to join passengers and a guide on a two-hour reef tour (at no cost). Absolutely! Ten minutes later we were in a rib with five cruise passengers and Jackson, our guide and driver. Paul was in another rib with about twelve passengers, and Ruby had about eight in her rib. Photo of Steep Island below.

The tour was fabulous. Initially we made our way to Turtle Gully and yes we saw quite a few turtles as well as a small shark. Into the main channel where there were larger flows of sea water cascading over the terraces of coral. (It was a Neap tide, so as Jackson explained not as full on as during Spring tide, but we were able to get up much closer to the terraces and the action which wouldn’t occur in Springs). Further along we spotted Eastern Great Egrets; a couple of Grey Herons; more turtles; a super long cream coloured sea snake, and a huge blue stingray. After exiting the channel, we then returned to Sea Goddess. Next stop for an overnight stay and visits to two waterfalls was Red Cone Creek. Photos below: Coral terraces and ‘Sir Hiss’ the snake.

Red Cone Creek

We passed Raft Point, Steep Island and Doubtful Bay along the way. And wow this isn’t a creek it’s more like a huge river lined on either side by thick mangroves. The main lagoon section, broke off into two tributaries at the far end, likened to a ‘Y’ and even these were very wide. We anchored in the lagoon as the setting sun turned azure blue to yellow, orange and finally red hues; then the sky lit up with the most amazing display of stars.

Next day we whiled away the morning waiting for the tide to rise enough to take the dinghy to see the two waterfalls. Taking the left tributary you will reach Sapphire Falls, to the right Ruby Falls. Once the tide was right and with all our bits and pieces in the dinghy we headed off, firstly taking the tributary to the right for Ruby Falls. (Usually, we both sit on the outside tube of the dinghy but being croc safe, Sandra sat on the internal plastic seat while Peter brought along our large esky to use as a seat).

We coasted along keeping to the middle of the channel, avoiding the banks and shallows. Gradually the mangrove lined channel narrowed. Coming around a bend and there near the bank, with just the top of its head above water, was a croc (Croc sighting #4), we zipped passed it and continued. Further on we took a fairly sharp left turn into an even narrower channel with a mangrove growing in the water, plus a large fallen log. Together they were blocking half the channel which would require us to go closer to the bank. Sandra was scanning the bank when suddenly Peter depowered the dinghy and started to turn us around. Initially Sandra was confused, then Peter pointed to a large partially submerged crocodile i.e. we were so close we see the ridges on its back, and it was totally blocking the other half of the channel (Sighting #5). Peter got us out of there quick smart, and we headed straight back to the boat.

The plan to go to Sapphire Falls (taking the left tributary) was abandoned. A photo of a waterfall, that may or may not have water flowing, was not worth putting ourselves at risk of a possible croc attack. (Addendum: In hindsight we regret not trading in our current tender/dinghy for a metal one, which all the cruise ships use. We had discussed it when we were in Adelaide prepping for this trip but decided against it at that time. We would certainly recommend this to anyone considering a sailing trip to this part of the world).

Deception Bay

Up at 0430 for an 0500 start to Deception Bay. Thus far we have experienced relatively calm – slight sea conditions with wind force on the low side and the direction has been fickle. The current can also be advantageous while it’s with you, until it’s not. As a result, since leaving Broome, we have generally motor sailed with the headsail and/or mainsail out to catch whatever breeze we can. Even an extra half a knot can make a difference over a 10-hour sail. A massive difference from the turbulent conditions further south, thank goodness.

As we moved along, on the mainland tall craggy cliffs made way for softer, rolling hills. Via binoculars, Peter spotted a crocodile sunning itself on a beach near Freshwater Bay. A big one too, about 5 metres in length (Croc sighting #6). So many beautiful pristine beaches along the coastline, all deserted. Clearly, the ‘Be Croc Safe’ message is getting out – it’s not worth the risk. And even if you can’t see them, it doesn’t mean they are not there, patiently watching and waiting.

Purely a rest stop, we had a pleasant overnight stay at Deception Bay before moving on the next morning.

Sheep Island

Heading for another overnight stop at Sheep Island. Stunning scenery particularly at the south entrance to Camden Harbour on the mainland to starboard, Kannamatju Island to port. We passed Kuri Bay … where an active pearl farming operation was in place. While we were chugging along, a sea plane flew over, landed in the bay and made its way to a dock located close to buildings on the shore. We wondered if it was bringing in a customer or two.

As we moved on, we could see the McDonald Ranges in the distance, with a mesa Imorogu Tabletop and Mount Lookover both dominating at this point. We anchored in Brecknock Harbour on the southwest side of Sheep Island early afternoon.

No sheep here in fact it is uninhabited, though once upon a time it was a farming community. Sandra became emotional when reading the history of the island. In particular, the story of Mary Pascoe who died here during childbirth in June 1865. (Conditions on the island would have been incredibly harsh at the best of times, and with no access to midwifery or medical expertise and support, childbirth complications would have been horrific for many). If reports are correct, her baby daughter died two months later. So incredibly sad. From our internet search we established that her grave, sitting alongside a boab tree, is well marked with a head stone though the inscription has weathered beyond recognition. The graves of others who died on the island are also there, but not at the same site. We had intended to visit the island and Mary’s grave; but unfortunately, not long after our arrival the wind picked up and choppy sea conditions negated a dinghy ride to the island. But as we motored passed the island and the boab tree the next morning, our thoughts were with Mary and her daughter. Sorry about the quality of the photo, its the best one we could get as we passed in the early morning sunrise. The outline of the boab tree in the foreground to the right of the photo below is the one referred to above.

As we continued towards our destination, the Prince Regent River, rolling hills made way for heavily vegetated islands, islands with mesas, and/or craggy outcrops. Then onto Roger’s Strait between the mainland to starboard and a huge island called Augustus Island to port, surrounded by several smaller islands and islets. Large pearl farming operations on both sides of the Strait with lots of activity underway.

We crossed Hanover Bay to Unwins Island, lots of large exposed rocks within the Indian Ocean with at least a dozen or so close to shore, some perfectly round on top, like a bread roll, others craggy with vertical striations. Motored between Unwins and Mictyis Island. Rows and rows of horizontal and vertical ‘stone’ piled upon each other, some sitting quite precariously atop. They appeared ‘higgilty pigglty’, a jumbled mish mash of rocks that were somehow still able to create a wall or tower. Between the mainland and Unwins Island we were skating quite a bit due to the current and the presence of eddies scattered across the channel. ‘Whirlpool Point’ took this to a whole new level, lots of agitated water and swirling pools that Peter navigated with great care and precision. We continued to head down the channel towards our anchorage point, passing the eastern aspect of Midway Island. After some difficulty anchoring due to depth and an undulating seabed, we switched to the other side of the channel and anchored just southwest of Greville Island.

Our anchorage point was at the very top of the most northeast section of the Dambimangari Indigenous Protected Area (IPL) and the most northwest section of Prince Regent National Park. These two regions border each other until they reach their most southern corner, where the IPL land boundary turns and continues west, and the national park boundary turns and continues east.

Prince Regent River

The next morning, we upped anchor heading towards Prince Regent River and the Kings Cascade Falls and Cathedral Falls. Passing Marigui Promontory, then Saint Patrick Island followed by the larger Saint Andrew Island, both of which are heavily vegetated. (In our view, St Patrick Island may be smaller, but the topography is far more interesting and prettier). Between the islands, and in the distance a huge mesa sits atop a large hill on the mainland. From here we entered Saint George Basin, a huge body of water encircled by the mainland and split by the river. Peter spotted a croc in the middle of the Basin, heading across from St Andrew Island to the mainland (Croc sighting #7).

By 0830 with the current in our favour, thanks to Peter’s planning, we were making good time. And by 0850 we had reached the entrance to Prince Regent River where initially mangroves lined both banks. Then things started to get interesting, with heavily vegetated hills and cliffs to port whilst those to starboard were less so, scraggy trees and bushes on this side but the huge outcrops of naked rock were stunning. Another croc sighting in the river to starboard, eyes and back just visible above the water line (Croc sighting #8).

During our river passage this morning, a small old style power boat named Andante was in front of us. With the movement of the boat, sometimes on one side, sometimes the other, sometimes in the middle, Peter quickly caught on that the skipper knew the river well particularly from a depth perspective, so we followed. They were moving much faster than us, so we lost sight of them for a while. When we met up with them again, they had anchored. We had a quick chat over the side of each boat and Peter indicated we would anchor further on closer to the falls. But, after a short discussion between the two of us we didn’t venture much further before turning around to anchor behind them. Local knowledge is everything up here. So, we sat having dinner in the middle of the river watching the tide drop lower and lower until there was more mud flat than river in the channel. No crocs so that was a good thing.

Peter was up during the night as the anchor ball (which together with the anchor light alerts other boaties that we are anchored) was banging around and about 4-5 large birds were trying to perch at the very top of the mast and spreaders. They were making a huge raucous, and did not like Peter disturbing them, but they eventually got the message. (We saw them the next morning and were able to identify them as eastern osprey).

Today is all about the falls. Moving easily along the river in the dinghy, we reached King Cascade Falls which were flowing and made a stunning picturesque scene. If you can imagine a tall, rock entrance at the opening to the river, which then made way for a horseshoe wall of rock about ¾ of the way around on either side then into mangroves. The falls flowed both centrally and slightly centre left. We had been following a small power boat to the falls, and as we arrived the guy called out that they had spotted a 3-metre crocodile in the mangroves on the left bank. We took the dinghy into the middle of the pool in front of the falls, we didn’t see the crocodile, but erring on the side of caution we took our photos and headed out.

As we were leaving the tinnie from Andante arrived, they were planning to climb through the scrub to the top of the rock wall i.e. above the falls. We gave them a heads up re the crocodile, then left and made way further along the river to Cathedral Falls. Part way along our route Peter noted two huge splashes from the riverbank, one immediately after the other, too big to be fish or birds. Looking into the murky water. we couldn’t see anything, but Sandra was spooked. To reach the falls requires moving through a narrow creek, we were the only boat headed to that location at this time, all the other tenders in the river were metal, and given our croc experience at Red Cone Creek we decided to give this set of falls a miss.

We were so glad to spot Sea Goddess in the distance, and once back on board, we upped anchor and followed our track back to the river entrance. We made excellent time with the assistance of the current behind us, entering Saint George Basin around 1330. Then through the channel, returning to our previous anchorage spot for the night.

Next morning we were heading between the mainland and Greville Island. With a 3.6 knot current directly in front we were skating a bit, lots of turbulence and eddies particularly so through Whirlpool Point. Fish, large and small, jumping out of the water, birds circling overhead and diving down hoping to grab one for breakfast. Moving northward we were buzzed by low flying plane, and 45 minutes later we received a radio call from Border Force asking where we had come from and where we were heading, and our ETA for arrival in Darwin. No questions about who was onboard or any other details were required. Whenever we are underway, we always have AIS operational. (The automatic identification system, or AIS, transmits a ship’s position so that other ships are aware of its position, in order to avoid collisions. But it can be used by a myriad of authorities for other purposes).

By early afternoon we were motor sailing passed Cape Brewster, truly magnificent rock formations on the mainland; whilst to port there were a collection of low-lying islands one after the other – Glavert; Grey; Coronation; Gale; Mably; Fontanes Islands; Desaix Islands; Wickam, and Museums Island. We made way between the mainland and Glavert Island, anchoring in the gorgeous waters of Careening Bay around midafternoon.

Careening Bay*

Around 1945 we had just finished dinner when a large power boat arrived. It’s pitch-black outside and the boat is lit up like a Christmas tree, and by default so are we. Two tenders get loaded up with people who then proceed to the beach. With binoculars on we could see the handheld torches moving this way and that as they explored the scrub for about 20 minutes. Then back to the power boat, left about 45 minutes after their arrival and the last we saw of them they were motoring westward. Totally odd. We then spent the next half hour or so coming up with crazier and crazier scenarios of who they were and what they were doing. You have to get your entertainment somehow!

Up a bit later today at 0700, waiting for the tide to turn in our favour before moving on around 1100. In the meantime, Peter over to the beach on the mainland to a very special boab tree, ‘The Mermaid Tree’. The tree was inscribed by a carpenter on Phillip Parker King’s survey expedition in 1820. The expedition was tasked with accurately charting the Kimberley coast on the HMC Mermaid and HMC Bathurst. The tree has survived all that time, as has the inscription. It is National Heritage listed, but currently is not in good condition. So, we are really fortunate to have had this opportunity.

We got underway as scheduled, and five hours later we anchored for an overnight stop between the WA mainland and Tjungkurakutangari Island. (Don’t ask us how to pronounce that). Outcrops of lava like craggy structures randomly sitting in the sea just off the island shoreline; like something from the Star Wars or Mad Max movies. Rolling hills on the mainland moving round in an arc to large red ochre cliffs. As you can imaging sunsets here are spectacular.

Bigge Island

Our next overnight stop was Wary Bay, Bigge Island*. This is a huge drawcard for cruise ships and cruisers due to its famous indigenous rock art which is located in rock caves easily accessible from the beach. When we arrived the cruise ship Coral Geographer was already anchored, and as we drifted, we watched with interest as a series of tenders took passengers over to the island and escorted them up the beach. Which gives us a heads up on where we should land the dinghy tomorrow and we can also follow their tracks.

Heading into anchorage after the cruise ship left, we made our way closer to shore when Peter noticed a significant and sudden drop in depth. We carefully backed out and moved to anchor further offshore. Just as well we did, because at low tide that area became an above sea level reef. And we would have been sat atop it! Photo below shows the tidal range, here it’s low tide.

The bay itself is beautiful, surrounded on each side by magnificent stone cliffs. And we were treated once again to a spectacular sunset. But Mother Nature just keeps giving, around 1830 we saw the beginning of a soft creamy-pale yellow glow from the rising moon behind the island, and then the waxed moon itself rising quite briskly into the night sky, add in the super clear milky way and sparkling stars and it was just magical.

Fabulous start to the morning. As we took the dinghy to the beach we saw two large turtles, one heading out to sea and the other close to the rocky cliffs just after landing. Making our way towards the onshore rock caves, we discovered that the area is a turtle breeding site with three large, albeit empty, nests located quite closely together. Walking passed these, being careful not disturb anything we easily found the rock caves. There are three in total and initially we couldn’t locate any of the indigenous rock art that the caves are famous for. But we kept looking; then in the last cave we spotted our first painting, then another and another. At times we had to move quite deeply into each cave, squeezing through narrow passages or hunkering down to locate them. But when you found one or at times a cluster of paintings it was like finding gold. Just amazing. Unfortunately, some are now lost or obscured due to weathering, particularly those closest to the sea and/or cave entrances. But what we saw was super special. Equally special was an encounter with a white bellied sea eagle who flew very close to us, and at eye level, as we were standing near the water’s edge.

Wollaston Island

Indigenous rock art abounds throughout The Kimberley region, and we made way to another well-known location on the mainland near Wollaston Island*. Six hours later we were anchored between the island and the mainland.

We left Sea Goddess around 0900 the next morning and took the dinghy to the beach on the mainland (directly opposite our anchorage). The beach was surrounded on both sides by humungous rocks which encapsulated the small beach. Someone had created a shell collection on top of one of the rocks including two conch shells, and we wondered if this was a directional point or just a collection of shells. Lots of footprints leading to rocks, but there was no discernible pathway.

Peter went off to explore and found two caves at the top of the island, returning to let Sandra know he had found one site* (there are apparently several rock art sites in this area). We both climbed up the rocks then along a narrow track between two massive vertical rocks before reaching the top of the island where it flattened out to typical Aussie scrub (scraggy trees and bushes; tall grass; spinifex) … and a path that led to a large cave. Gorgeous rock paintings were located on sides of rocks, underneath rocks, on top of rocks, several were metres above ground level. Like Bigge Island, some were in better shape than others, and many were weathered but stunning, nonetheless. Underneath a massive rock was a circular space surrounded by smaller rocks which had the look and feel of a special place. So, we stayed on the edge not wanting to disturb anything and just let the atmosphere settle over us before returning to the dinghy and Sea Goddess.

Not long after our return we upped anchor and headed to another renowned rock painting site, Swift Bay, anchoring there by late afternoon.

Swift Bay

Next morning our anchorage neighbours stopped by in their dinghy and gave us some information and directions as to the best places to view the paintings. Based in Darwin they are regular visitors to this region. While we were chatting a large tawny nurse shark arrived, circled our boat and their dinghy. They told us that the shark is a regular visitor, mooching for food.

Around 1200, and with a good idea of where we were headed, we took the dinghy to the southern end of the bay. It was just off high tide, so some rock areas were exposed. We got the dinghy in as far as we could, Peter tying a line to a rock. Then we picked our way up, using the rocks as steps till we came to a gravel path in front of a massive rock. We were following the path in front of the rock, when Peter noticed the first rock painting, just beautiful.

The path wound its way through long grass and more rocks, to another massive sandstone rock where more paintings were discernible, though there were a number that had weathered beyond recognition. Some were painted on rocks very close to the ground, and the person who painted these must have done so lying on his/her back. We had done our homework and knew that these areas are common burial sites, so we were careful not to move or displace anything. We took lots of photos before making our way back to the dinghy.

Once aboard Peter followed the coastline to another large section of rocks which hugged the water’s edge. There are known rock paintings here as well, and though we didn’t see any we used the GoPro to film the rocks* and there might be more to see here when we download the footage. Then it was a dinghy ride back to Sea Goddess for lunch and prepping for our overnight sail.

Vansittart Bay

First overnight sail in a while, heading to Vansittart Bay to see the DC3 (USAAC C-53), aircraft wreckage*. The wreckage has an interesting history as follows. In February 1942, during a flight from Perth to Broome to assist with the evacuation of Dutch citizens from Java, the pilot of the DC3 became disorientated. The plane veered off course and was forced to land on a saltpan on the Western Australian mainland near Vansittart Bay. All four crew members survived and were evacuated by sea plane.

We anchored in the bay around 1015, Peter had checked the wreck coordinates from the Uunguu Visitors Guide, so we had a good idea where to beach the dinghy. The visitor guide also directed us to a piece of pipe lodged on top of a sand dune, which was easily identifiable as we neared the beach. Once landed we checked the sand for any croc trails, then walked up the beach to a small sand dune via a well-used path (footprints everywhere). We passed the ‘pipe’ at the top then made our way down the other side to a saltwater lake that is walkable at low tide.

We were a bit nervous as we walked on the path to the lake, as it required us to walk through mangroves (a known croc hideout). Peter was carrying an oar from the dinghy, our only ‘weapon’, and keeping a close watch on either side of the path we got through okay. The visitor’s guide had also alerted us to the possibility of feral cattle on the lake that have been known to become aggressive and ‘charge’ at times. At this stage Sandra’s thinking, Jeez I hope this is worth it! Walking across the lake we could see the imprint of boots, sneakers and hooves!! As well as what looked like emu or crocodile prints (really hoping it’s emus). The closer we got to the middle of the lake the gooier it became which impeded our plan to walk briskly.

Once we reached the other side of the lake there were no markers or signage, just more mangroves and scrubby bushes and trees, discernible footprints went every which way. We took a gamble that the plane would be roughly in line with the pole on the other side of the lake. The first gap in the mangroves and scraggy bushes led nowhere, the next one we looked down Peter could see the plane a short distance away and we made a beeline for it.

For its age the plane itself is in remarkedly good condition. The middle section of the fuselage had been removed which opened up the front and back sections of the plane. This allowed us to carefully step along narrow steel beams to the cockpit and the inner tail section (there was no floor or ceiling in place). One engine was still on site, as well as both wings and landing gear. As an added bonus we spotted a large, healthy boab tree nearby.

The plane was well worth the visit, and the journey to get here was something we will remember and talk about for a very long time. We made the return trip to the dinghy with no issues. After lunch aboard Sea Goddess, we departed Vansittart Bay for another overnight sail to Glycomis Bay. At 0300 hours we passed the most northern point of Western Australia.  Big tick for achieving this milestone, Yeah!

Glycomis Bay

We anchored around 7-ish in the most stunning bay, once again lined with rock structures that rise out of the water’s edge and create a wall of patterns and colours. Reds, oranges, creams, browns, greys and black. Some with vegetation emerging from cracks. In other areas the rock structures are interspersed with trees and mangroves. It sounds random, and in one sense it is, but put it all together it creates the most amazing natural setting.

That afternoon we took the dinghy around the corner from our anchorage point to a narrow U shaped bay to see Glycomis Falls. This smaller bay is equally stunning with the surrounding cliff face reminding us of Indiana Jones movies. Unfortunately for us there was no water flowing, well there was a trickle. But you could certainly see from the discolouration of the rock where the falls would flow, and it would no doubt be a fantastic sight to see.

Exiting the falls area we headed back out into the main bay following the east – northeast coastline to the Lost City (photo below).

Amazing rock formations all along this strip with huge slabs of fallen rock at the water’s edge. Once upon a time people lived here. We didn’t walk up the hills to the ‘City’ as this would have required us to walk through dense mangroves and we were concerned about the possibility of crocs. So, we retraced our track back along the water’s edge to Sea Goddess. Then it was time to get prepped for an early sail tomorrow and our last few days in The Kimberley region.

*Each person will need to purchase a Uunguu Visitor Pass to access these islands/sites (currently $100.00pp). The Visitor Guide, available on the website, provides an overview of each major tourist attraction, directions and restrictions if applicable.

King George River & King George Falls

At 0430 we upped anchor at Glycomis Bay to ensure we reached King George River with the correct tide. We also had the benefit of a 1 knot current behind us, so we made good time arriving at Koolama Bay around 0730. We anchored for a short time while we waited for the depth of the river entrance to accommodate Sea Goddess’s draft (undercarriage) requirements plus some wriggle room. For the first time we would traverse a river up close and personal aboard Sea Goddess rather than the dinghy which made this excursion that much more special. We entered the river entrance at 0900, and just WOW-WOW-WOW we were immediately overwhelmed by the amazing scenery surrounding us on both sides. In his planning Peter had certainly saved the best till last.

As we got closer to the falls the river narrowed to form a canyon with stunning cliffs towering over us on either side. Lots of ribs from a cruise ship passing by as they too headed for the falls.

Once reached there are two falls, one on either side of a huge dividing wall of rock. Not a lot of water flowing, but enough to be impressed and get some great photos.

With a feel for the river’s turns and topography, we made our way back to the river entrance at a slow and steady pace which allowed us to soak in the majestic surroundings. It would also be our last day in The Kimberley region, so we wanted to make the most of these last few daylight hours and bank them in our memory. No doubt we will benefit from the large number of photos and video clips we have taken and stored over our time here.

We exited the river at 1220 and by 1300 we were anchored in Kooloma Bay in front of Lesueur Island for an overnight stay. To anyone reading this blog, we would highly recommend a trip to this part of Australia which is full to the brim with the most amazing scenery and experiences. Throughout our time in the region the weather has been glorious with lots of sunshine and cooler evenings and nights. There are several cruise ships which offer Darwin to Broome or Broome to Darwin trips. From three star to five star, they visit a number of the places we enjoyed, and no doubt other places that we missed. So do yourself a favour, grab a lottery ticket and if you win put a visit here high on your ‘Treat Myself’ list.

Darwin

At 0500 the next morning, Sunday 30^th June, just as the glow of the sun started to appear over the horizon, we upped anchor at Koolama Bay bound for Darwin. Initially we headed across Joseph Bonaparte Gulf. Fickle winds kept us on our toes simultaneously managing a number of things with care – the wind changing direction and dropping in strength; sails; sea state; tides, current and fuel. It’s all part of the sailing journey. In the main, we have been very fortunate since leaving Broome not to have experienced the stormy conditions of the Southern Ocean and parts of the Indian Ocean. If anything, there has been little wind and seas have been relatively calm which has led to us relying on the engines a lot more and using more fuel than anticipated as we travel to our destinations. As a fuel saving measure we try as much as possible to alternate engines, and power up only to the required conditions.

The first night of our journey east, we were treated to bioluminescence which we haven’t seen in a while, off the rear of both port and starboard hulls. Bioluminescence is created by the production and emission of light by living organisms. As our boat glides over bioluminescence waters, the movement activates the glow of the organisms, creating a luminous path in its wake. Has a sparkle effect like small fairy lights of differing colours through the churning waters of the engines, just magical.

Early the next morning, Monday 1^st July at 0610 hours we crossed the Western Australia-Northern Territory border. Not long after a pod of dolphins joined us at the bow, the first pod in a long while, a couple even breached. Obviously, a different species to others we have seen due to their colouring, snout shape and small size. As the day progressed and into the night, wind and sea conditions changed and we were a rocking and a rolling. Unpredicted changes in wind and sea state are not unexpected on a long passage such as this one. We motored through the night, Peter hand steering as our automatic steering and course navigation couldn’t cope with the conditions. Around 1145 the next day we changed course, and the wind and sea state settled a little but still choppy with a slammer every now and again.

Just before 1400 we could see Darwin on the horizon. Making our way to our anchorage we passed a mixture of watercraft including a number of cargo ships and tankers, a naval patrol boat and submarine, a port pilot boat, what we think was a huge cable laying vessel which we dubbed the Mean Green Machine due to its look and colour, as well as several small power boats and this was just in the waters surrounding Darwin. We cruised passed them all and arrived at our anchorage at Fannie Bay just before 1500 hours. Phew! We completed our post sail activities in record time then it was dinner; wine; shower, and bed.

Prior to arriving in Darwin we booked a berth at Cullen Bay Marina for a week. Accessing the marina required us to transit the Cullen Bay Lock. Peter had organised an 1100 timeslot with the Lockmaster via Channel 11 on the VHF radio. We upped anchor at Fannie Bay at 1030 making our way to the lock. When we arrived at the entrance there were two boats on the fuel-holding dock, a cat and a power boat, with another two smaller boats circling the holding bay. So, we turned around and headed back out again. After a short time, we saw the docked power boat leave so we assumed at least part of the holding dock would be free and headed back in. As we were approaching, we saw the Sealink Ferry powering down the channel, so Peter backed off to let them through first. (The ferries have a separate docking area so not an issue to let them go ahead).

Next minute two ribs come roaring passed us, one with lifeguards aboard and the other police who proceeded to pull up to the holding dock which doubles as a refuelling dock. Like the turtle and the hare, by the time we got through the entrance to the holding bay the lifeguard rib had moved on and the police rib was refuelling. Luckily there was enough room between the rib and the catamaran in front for us to dock. A lock operator came down to tell us that one of us needed to do an induction. So, Peter went with him, as one of us was required to stay with the boat at all times. Induction completed we waited.

Once we got the call up on the radio, we left the dock and slowly made out way forward between the lock walls. The lock is about 9.5 metres wide, Sea Goddess is 7.8 metres wide, so it was very squeezy. Once we got through the lock gates Sandra got the stern slip line around the uprights of a steel ladder bolted to the lock wall and held on to the free end keeping Sea Goddess in place. Peter put the bow slip line around a pole and again held on to this. As the water rose in the lock, we were required to slowly pull the line in, all the while the lockmaster with the handheld lock remote control was watching from above. Once the water was at the right depth, we made our way through the lock gates at the other end and headed to our berth.

Once berthed and our post sail activities completed, we headed out for something to eat, to introduce ourselves at the marina office and have a look around our immediate environment. Marinas attract a range of eateries and businesses which overlook the berth area, and here was no different. Café, ice creamery, Greek and Indian restaurant and a quirky bar-bistro called Lolas Pergola. Quirky is good, so we stopped in for Sangria and pizza. Met the owners who were super friendly and joined us for a little while.

Though seriously hot and humid, we enjoyed our time in Darwin getting out and about on the ebikes; catching the bus here and there (while we were there a three month trial of free public transport for everyone was underway); chatting with other boaties including the guys from Border Force who were docked a couple of boats down from us.

Peter also spent some time working out options for the trip to Cairns, and in particular tides. Whilst factoring in our marina departure time by midday on Wednesday.

Option A: Up super early on Wednesday morning to be at lock for 0600.

Option B: Leave berth around midafternoon on Tuesday for a 3pm lock time and stay overnight at anchor in Fannie Bay. We would then leave a little later on Wednesday morning to address the tide issue.

We opted for B even though we’ve paid for the berth till Wednesday midday, Sandra wasn’t keen to go through the narrow lock in darkness/semi darkness.

We traversed the lock on time with no issues and made our way to the fuel dock. Cost of diesel $1.95/litre which was half the price of Dog Leg Creek so we were cheering. Our overnight stay at Fannie Bay was comfortable and at 0700 the next day, 10^th July, we upped anchor for Cairns. Queensland here we come!

Thank you so much for taking the time to read our blog, we hope you enjoyed it. Till next time take care everyone xx

For ease of location we have grouped all the anchorages we utilised for the Broome to Darwin leg into one blog. Refer below or click this link https://seagoddessadventures.com/broome-to-darwin-anchorages/

For our review of Cullen Bay Marina please click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/cullen-bay-marina/

Duration: 40 days

The next stage of our trip will involve a lot more coastal hops than previous stages thus far. There will be a lot more day sails, anchoring overnight before moving on the next day. This ensures we keep to our planned timeframes and limits the number of night sails we undertake. While we both enjoy night sailing, it’s a bit of a double-edged sword. The quietness that surrounds you with just the shushing of the boat as it makes its way through the water; the stars which light up the night sky, and the moonlight creating a path though the sea is lovely and incredibly calming. Then on the flip side there are boats, particularly fishing trawlers who, in an effort to maintain the secrecy of their fishing spots, turn off their navigation instruments so they don’t appear on ours or their competitors. On one night Sandra noted a light approaching from behind getting closer and closer, the vessel didn’t appear on our instrumentation. Turned out to be a massive cargo ship about 5 kilometres off our port side. Sounds okay if you are driving a car, but it’s mighty close when you are sailing. Then there are crab pots, at night it’s impossible to spot them and if you happen to cross the floating line it can become tangled in a boat’s propeller.  We were at least 40nm offshore and they were still out there. So not a lot you can really do at night, hope for the best and if it happens manage any issues that may arise.

Our first stop after leaving Two Rocks was a small coastal town called Lancelin. We anchored between the town on the mainland and Lancelin Island. Lots of McMansions on the sea front, and lots of fishing boats, both small and large, coming back in before sunset. Lancelin is well known as one of the largest lobster fishing ports in Western Australia. (Photo below of Lancelin Island). Click here for Lancelin anchorage information https://seagoddessadventures.com/lancelin-anchorage/ The next day we headed to Green Islands, two islands off the mainland coast joined by a sand spit. There wasn’t a lot of wind, so we motor sailed, passing huge expanses of untouched white sand dunes on the mainland. Around 10-ish just north of Dide Bay Reef we spotted our first whale. We were alerted by the blow at first, then it breached and gave a flipper slap. An unexpected but wonderful surprise.

It was a hairy approach to Green Islands, as they are surrounded by shallow reefs which cause waves to constantly crash over the underlying rock bed. The wave formation was cool, starting at one end and building momentum by moving horizontally in a long run along the reef before crashing over and over again. Peter navigated us through the narrow passage between the reefs with great skill, then we turned to tuck Sea Goddess into the lee of one of the islands, with the mainland behind us. This would provide us with protection from the oncoming swell. And boy did we need protection! It turned out to be a crazy night, the wind was howling, and waves were slapping against the hull. When we got up the sea was like a washing machine, with easterly winds gusting up to 35+ knots and a 1 – 1 ½ metre swell running. Sandra out on the foredeck to retrieve the anchor, suited up with life jacket and tethered on, Peter at the helm. It was super challenging as the boat was getting tossed around like a bucking bronco and waves were crashing over the foredeck. Sandra got soaked head to toe, ugh! We really needed to get out of there, and the anchor chain was straining as Sea Goddess was being pushed back by the wind and the windlass wasn’t happy. But by powering up the engines and moving forward we were able to counteract the wind and waves to get the anchor chain and anchor up, disaster averted. We followed the same route of yesterday, dodging the reefs and breaking waves. Goodbye Green Islands, we won’t be back! Click here for anchorage information https://seagoddessadventures.com/green-islands-anchorage/

By 1100 the wind had dropped, and apart for a starboard swell we motor-sailed to Jurien Bay without issue. Lots and lots of crab pots scattered throughout the bay and around our planned anchor point. Another catamaran was anchored south of the jetty, so we joined them there. Jurien Bay is a tourist hotspot, not only for crabbing and fishing but for a nearby colony of seals. Regular boat tours leave the marina offering the opportunity to swim with the seals or be an observer. Not sure if they had much joy the day after we arrived as a massive thunderstorm rolled in, with stormy clouds hanging around for most of the day. Link to Jurien Bay anchorage information https://seagoddessadventures.com/jurien-bay-anchorage/

We left Jurien Bay on the 1^st of May, with strong head winds and choppy seas putting paid to any notion of sailing. We motored to another lovely bay, Anchorage Bay at Green Head, a small regional fishing town. We rested up overnight, and with a planned overnight sail tonight and a departure time around 2.00 pm, Peter got kitted up in his snorkelling gear to complete a check and some maintenance work on the boat hulls and the propellers while Sandra got stuck into some onboard cleaning. We left on time, us and a heap of pesky bush flies, luckily, we kept them contained to the cockpit and helm station. And one by one they became fish food. Link to Green Head anchorage follows https://seagoddessadventures.com/green-head/

Our passage plan took us directly away from the coast as we sought to reduce the possibility of getting tangled in crab pot lines. We gave up when we were still finding them at the 50metre depth line, and changed course northward to Geraldton. With settling seas, light 8-10 knot winds, and alternating engines to keep us moving it was a comfortable overnight sail. In the beginning glow of sun rise we could clearly see the lights of Geraldton ahead, and around 0945 we were anchored in Champion Bay. For anchorage information click https://seagoddessadventures.com/champion-bay-anchorage-geraldton/

Geraldton

After completing our post sail checks and activities, and those who know Sandra well will know there is a checklist in place for that (ha ha!), we took the dinghy to a really lovely horseshoe beach. Even though it was a weekday there were kids running around in the shallows and a few sunbathers as well. Once we got to the foreshore pathway, and with the Geraldton Yacht Club building directly in front of us, we turned left and were impressed by the available amenities, including four large playgrounds. One fenced basketball-handball court, a huge adventure playground with climbing ropes, rope ladders and the like, another for water play and the last one more traditional. Cafes, sculptures, indigenous art coupled with a perfect sunny day completed the picture. We needed to pick up a couple of things, so using Google maps we headed for the local shopping centre. Lots of development happening or about to happen ….. large signs up with plans for more apartment buildings, shops, restaurants in a large disused piece of land that used to be part of the railway station. The gorgeous old station building is still standing, and we hope it remains so as it is a classic design, and a tribute to the history of the town. Currently the building is used as a market every Sunday. The photo below is one of the local pubs.

The shopping centre was small compared to what we are used to but had all the basics including a supermarket and Kmart. Leaving here we meandered our way back passing a shop with a stunning photographic display. The business is owned by Karl Monaghan, pretty sure he has featured in one of those touristy shows on tv as the name was very familiar. As you can imagine his work was quite pricey but given the quality of the shots rightly so. We stood outside for a while just taking in the stunning views captured by camera.

The town of Geraldton also has an extremely busy port, mainly wheat and iron ore. The port is a stone’s throw from our anchorage and seeing these humungous vessels with tugs (usually one side on and one behind) navigate the relatively narrow channel and then being turned around 360° before docking is remarkable. (When we realised how close we would be to the port, and given the Bunbury disaster, we kept all the hatches well and truly closed until we got a sense of the wind direction. Very pleased to report there were no issues this time). Given how close we were to all action at the port, we decided to check it out the next day.

So, we retraced our path to the beach and turned right this time, walking passed a newish modern building which turned out to be the Geraldton Naval Cadet Academy. Further on to a free and quite popular RV park, and then along a wide path which ran adjacent to the port channel. (The path was previously a set of train tracks which once upon a time carried cargo and resources to waiting ships). The old jetty was still in use for fishing and as a popular spot for local youths to jump off and ‘bomb’ into the water. At the end of the path were two lookouts, one across Champion Bay and the other towards the Indian Ocean. In front of and to the right of the port channel is a breakwater, a sunning spot for several local seals … unfortunately for us there wasn’t any sunbathing going on when we took the dinghy out there for a look.

Our Sunday in Geraldton was a busy one. We took the dinghy to shore and joined the locals at an expo where we wandered around various displays. Local scouts; volunteer marine rescue; maritime safety; local police with patrol car; an activity tent where children could use working ‘grown up’ tools to make wooden things; a range of local health and community services, plus a variety of speakers providing talks to anyone who cared to listen. We wandered through taking it all in, before heading for our destination the HMAS Sydney II Memorial, which sits atop a hill overlooking the township and out to sea.

Not sure if it is appropriate to say that a memorial is beautiful? But it was truly lovely and poignant. The thought that had gone into each piece, each structure, and the serenity of the park …. there are no words to describe the emotional connection evoked from just being there. The dome of the main structure is made up of 365 stainless steel seagulls representing each of the men who tragically died. (Traditionally seagulls represent the souls of lost sailors). The ‘Pool of Remembrance’ commemorates the finding of the ship in March 2008, 120 miles off Steep Point WA. The granite pool hosts a silhouette of a seagull in flight, with its beak pointing to the location of the ship in the pool floor.  Close by is the ‘Waiting Woman’ whose gaze looks out to the exact compass bearing of the downed ship.

It was a quiet walk back to the dinghy, and we wandered down the main street with its shops, restaurants, and cafes. Though being a Sunday, most were closed for the day. We popped in for lunch at the Geraldton Yacht Club, and sitting out on the upstairs deck we had an awesome view over the bay, the port and beyond as we watched the expo wind down. A catch up with a couple we met in Rockingham to share sailing stories and discuss our future travel plans followed before retiring to Sea Goddess for the night.

Our last day in Geraldton, and Peter took the opportunity to get his gear off, his snorkelling gear and boardies on, and spent all morning cleaning the starboard hull of sea growth as well as scraping barnacles off the propellers and sail drives. Just the port hull to do at some point in the future. Then it was time to head over to the catamaran ‘Tantabiddi’ to join some other boaties for sundowners. All of whom are, like us, on their way north up the coast to The Kimberly. A great opportunity to share sailing experiences and information, as well as imbibing in a glass or two of wine. Tomorrow its back to hopping up the coast.

We left Geraldton early the next morning bound for the Abrolhos Islands, a group of islands off the coast of Western Australia. We had planned to island hop for a day or three before moving further north. Our first stop was Beacon Island, a flat pancake like island, to see if we could score the only available mooring ball. We were in luck, though it was a bit offshore and offered no protection from any strong winds or swell but we decided to take it anyway. We had many attempts to pick the mooring line up which was unusually short, thick (about the thickness of Peter’s forearm) and extremely heavy, but to no avail. In this instance when you picked up the mooring line you were essentially picking up the mooring ball as well adding an enormous weight. This is the first time we have ever had an issue with a mooring. We figured that it was highly likely that other moorings in the island group would be similar. Link to Abrolhos mooring information https://seagoddessadventures.com/abrolhos-islands-mooring/

So with sunset approaching we made the decision to leave the Beacon Island, to continue on and head north to Dirk Hartog Island. This would require two overnight sails plus day sails. Unfortunately, as we have experienced at other times in this journey, the wind and sea state did not play nice – strong winds and seas like a washing machine for the most part! We were beginning to wonder whether we would ever get a break. And then it happened, early morning of our arrival day (!!) winds dropped, and seas calmed.

By sunrise we could see Dirk Hartog Island in the distance. This most western part of the island and the mainland to our right were brown and barren, virtually no vegetation at all. A lighthouse sat atop the mainland at the entrance to the channel running between the two land masses. Some good names here – Broken Down Head, Mystery Beach, and Tumbledown Point. We anchored in a gorgeous bay facing a series of buildings on the island foreshore, which turned out to be a bar/restaurant with outdoor seating area and an accommodation block with maintenance sheds behind. For information about our island anchorage click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/dirk-hartog-island-anchorage/

From the mainland, passenger access to the island is via ferry from Denham; vehicle access is via barge from Steep Point which carries a maximum of one trailer and one vehicle at a time. Various types of accommodation are available on the island from high end villas; an eco-lodge (The Lodge); homestead camping, or DIY national park camping.  Kayaks and paddleboards are available for paying guests. The island has the honour of having the most remote bar and café in Australia, and the last sunset in Australia from the furthest west point in Australia. For more information about the island check out the website http://www.dirkhartogisland.com.au

Next day we took the dinghy for a spin to a small rocky island called Meade Island, which is a known breeding ground for sea eagles and osprey. Didn’t see any but then we didn’t get too close so as not to disturb any birds that might be nesting.  From here it was a shot hop to the beach, and we left the dinghy next to a rusted semi submerged steel boat. We had just started meandering along the beach when we spotted a horse having a feed on the lawn outside The Lodge. Honestly it was the last thing we expected to see, but there it was, not bothered just munching away. Just in case you didn’t believe us here’s a photo x

The ‘Inscription’ café/bar and gift shop was open, and a number of people were on the deck enjoying the weather and view of the seascape. We headed on, making our way towards a rocky outcrop at the end of the beach, passing glam-tents and regular not so glam tents. We spotted lots of stingrays and two small sharks (about a metre in length) in the shallows. Then it was back to the bar for a couple of pre-dinner drinks before returning to Sea Goddess.

We were also keen to find out some of the history of the island and in particular how it got its name. We found all we needed to know at the National Museum of Australia website. One of the things that we found interesting and in some ways a bit comical, was the story surrounding a plate. So, the story goes that in October 1616 Dirk Hartog and crew landed on the island (hence its name) and to record his visit to the new land, Hartog had a pewter dinner plate flattened and ‘inscribed’ with details of their landing and further journey plans. This plate was nailed to a post and placed on high ground at the northern end of the island, a spot now known as Cape Inscription. It stayed there for eighty one years until 1697 when another Dutchman, Willem de Vlamingh, came ashore and found the plate half buried in sand. Removing it he created a new one, copying Hartog’s inscription then adding the details of his own visit to the island. He then took the original plate back to the Netherlands. (The plate is the oldest European artefact recovered from Australian shores. It is now held by the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam).

But wait there’s more ….. in 1801 a French expedition led by Nicolas Baudin landed on the island. The replacement de Vlamingh plate was located by the young cartographer, Louis de Freycinet, who bought it back to the corvette Naturaliste. Captain of the Naturaliste, Jacques Hamelin, ordered de Freycinet to return the plate considering it poor form to remove it. But obviously Louis hadn’t forgotten about ‘the plate’ when in 1818 he returned, this time in charge of his own ship, and took the de Vlamingh plate back to France. The plate was misplaced until the 1940s when it was relocated and, after the Second World War, was ‘gifted’ to the Australian people by the French government. The plate is now on display in the Maritime Museum in Fremantle, Western Australia. Unfortunately, not being aware of this story we didn’t look for the ‘replacement plate’ when we visited the Fremantle maritime museum … but who knows someday we might get to see it and/or the original in Amsterdam.

After a lovely couple of days here it was time to move on, but not before we had our first encounter with a very unhappy sea snake. Sandra was bringing up the anchor in preparation for our departure, and there it was wrapped around the anchor chain. (To put you in the know, Sandra’s greatest fears while undertaking this trip are snakes, sharks, and crocodiles). After letting out a loud Yelp through the headphones, and once Peter got his hearing back, he suggested dropping the anchor a bit and bringing it up again a couple of times to see if we could shake it off. We thought it had worked only to find it wrapped further down the chain, up and down, up and down again and it was gone. Well, that was until it swam towards the boat, head and a good portion of its body out of the water letting us know it wasn’t pleased. Gladly within minutes we had left it well behind. It wasn’t the only one we would see as we made our way to our overnight anchorage at Broadhurst Bay. We spotted two more swimming southwards with the current; and then three hammerhead sharks swimming close to the surface in the bay itself! Following a good night’s sleep we upped anchor early next morning just as the sun was rising, passing magnificent ochre cliffs as we sailed towards our next stop, Monkey Mia.(Photo of us at Inscription Cafe & Bar, Dirk Hartog Island). Link to Broadhurst Bay anchorage here https://seagoddessadventures.com/broadhurst-bay-anchorage/

Monkey Mia (pronounced My-a)

After a pleasant six-and-a-half-hour sail, joined by the local dolphins along the way, we anchored in the bay near the jetty. Monkey Mia isn’t a town per se, it is a national park with a resort offering various styles of accommodation including a caravan park as well as a modern coastal themed bar/restaurant; a shop with a limited range of groceries, drinks and gifts; park and excursion booking office; a popular boat ramp and jetty, as well as staff offices and quarters. A long, gorgeous beach in front makes way to crystal clear water, just idyllic really. We made our way to the office to pay the required national park fees, $30.00 per adult per day, $10.00 per day for seniors and concession card holders which was quite reasonable. This fee included access to all facilities including the pool, restaurant and so on as well as unlimited attendance at the ‘dolphin experience’ which occurred three times each morning. There were also several commercial operators offering sunset sails, fishing charters and the like.

Our plans to attend see the dolphins the next morning were put on hold as Peter noticed ominous clouds in the distance, then within thirty minutes a blanket of fog rolled in, and it was just too dangerous to move about in the dinghy. Then around 0830 heavy rain began followed by thunder and lightning. In one respect we were very happy, as the outside of the boat was getting a solid wash removing all the build-up of salt. But this morning’s weather event was overshadowed by a super-duper storm around four in the afternoon, we quickly locked everything up and shut down all onboard electrics, sat back and watched the sky show.

By next morning the sky had cleared to herald a beautiful day. We were up early to take the dinghy across to the beach for the 0800 ‘Dolphin Experience’ session. Lots of people standing behind the barrier on the beach and more on the jetty. The dolphins obviously know its show time because a couple were already swimming around. Two Park Rangers arrived, one miked up, then invited us down to the waterline where we were able to stand ankle deep in the water. In total four dolphins arrived close to shore, one with an eleven-week calf, a male called Wiggi. Two volunteers with small pieces of fish in metal buckets hand fed them. It was great experience and educational to, as the ranger provided some interesting facts about dolphin life and the habits of these local dolphins in particular. We treated ourselves to a café style coffee (we’ve got to make the most of these little pleasures while we can), and after a long beach walk, we headed back to the boat. On the way a massive turtle appeared on the surface, but unfortunately didn’t reappear for a photo. Rain clouds returned and we experienced rain for the remainder of the day but not with the intensity of last night, thank goodness. Photo of Wiggi and his Mum, super cute ♥

We utilised the remainder of the day to catch up with family, blogging and prepping for our next sail day tomorrow. For those who may be considering their own trip by boat, car or caravan we have found Starlink internet service to be excellent. There is a one-off charge to buy the required equipment and then a monthly access fee. As with these types of services there are differing plans depending on your usage and location. When we are within territorial waters or near shore, we can access the internet, make phone calls, watch television and so on.

Another tidbit is the origins of the name, ‘Monkey Mia’. The Mia part of Monkey Mia comes from an Aboriginal term for home. The ‘Monkey’ part isn’t as straightforward. Many believe that the Monkey part refers to the name of a ship which visited the area, while others believe it refers to pet monkeys that Malaysian pearl farmers, who worked in the area during the 1850s, would have onboard. Either way it’s a great name. Click here for anchoring information https://seagoddessadventures.com/monkey-mia-anchorage/ ‎

Carnarvon

We departed Monkey Mia just after sunrise, escorted for a short time by Wiggi and his mother at the starboard bow. There wasn’t enough puff in the wind to sail and the current wasn’t in our favour so we motored to Carnarvon, just a tad over eight hours in total. We docked at the Carnarvon Marina and Boat Harbour, and will stay for two nights. Essentially a refuelling stop, we’ll also fit in a top up shop for fruit and vegetables while we are here. We met the husband and wife crew from SV Breezy, who are berthed next door. Talk about a small world, they are from Adelaide and reside at North Haven essentially next door to 35 South Marina (where we lived aboard for three years). Had lots of good chats together while we were here.

The only supermarket in town is Woolworths, and online delivery is not available to this marina. Our only option was to walk, ride our bikes or get a taxi. Apart from a trip to Woolies, Peter also wanted to get some bits and pieces from the hardware store. Collectively our shopping would be quite heavy, so a taxi there and back was the go. The taxi dropped Sandra off at Carnarvon Central shopping centre, then continued on to take Peter to Mitre10. The plan was that Peter would walk back and we would meet up for coffee at the Centre.

The shopping centre was very small with Woolworths dominating the centre space. A number of businesses had obviously closed down and were empty. Fruit, vegetable and grocery prices were more expensive, significantly so in some instances though this wasn’t unexpected. Sandra was just finishing up at the checkout counter when Peter arrived. He had been walking along the road and a car pulled up, the guy (Paul) asked Peter if he needed a lift. Took Peter back to the marina to drop off the bits and pieces he had bought, Peter showed him around the boat, then drove him back to the shopping centre all the while chatting as though they had known each other for years. There is something truly unique about country people and living in the country, we’ve both experienced it time and time again.

Now it would be no surprise to family and friends that our top up shop included alcohol, but the local liquor store didn’t open until midday so, along with a few other people, we sat and had a coffee while we waited. Once the doors opened everyone made a beeline for the doors. Once inside, Sandra looked after the shopping trolley while Peter had a look around. The guy behind the counter must have pegged me for a tourist because he called me over and told me about the alcohol restrictions that applied in the town. However, these restrictions did not apply to tourists, but as we were purchasing more than the allowable daily limit, I had to fill out a form with my full name, address and ID details. We presented the form to the checkout operator who also looked at my ID. We passed the tourist test, and with all our bits and pieces got a taxi back to the marina.

That evening we joined the crew from Breezy for dinner at the Carnarvon Yacht Club. We all rode our ebikes and arrived just as the staff were putting food into the bay marie. It was ‘Retro Night’, Apricot Chicken, Irish Stew, battered sweet and sour fish, boiled rice, medley of vegetables, bread rolls and butter, with sticky date pudding and cream for dessert. Cost $30.00 each, wine $7.00 per glass red or white. It was serve yourself, and we were so busy chatting that we left it a bit late to head over. Oh dear, most of the mains had gone …. rice, some veges, gravy/sauce and some bread rolls, dessert was all gone. We just made do with what was there and ordered another wine. Later we were joined by another husband and wife crew, who own and sail a catamaran Catalina II based at Mandurah. A great night …. until Sandra fell off her bike, again!! No idea how or why it happened. More embarrassed than anything, as everyone came rushing over to make sure I was okay. A bit nervous riding back to the marina, but we all got back okay. Straight to bed and let sleep takeover. A bit sore the next morning, luckily other than prepping for our departure tomorrow we had planned a quiet day. Peter made shade cloth blinds for the back of the boat ……. worked a treat and will be really useful as we head further north.

Last day in Carnarvon and we spent the morning going back and forth in the dinghy to the fuel dock. We tied off to a rickety and rusty ladder which Peter used to access the jetty landing while Sandra tied a line to a series of jerry cans. Peter hoisted them up, filled them from the bowser then lowered them back down to Sandra in the dinghy. Back to the boat, offloaded the fuel into the onboard fuel tanks then back we went ….. rinse and repeat, rinse and repeat until the fuel tanks were full. Click here for our review of Carnarvon Marina and Boat Harbour https://seagoddessadventures.com/carnarvon-marina-and-boat-harbour/

After saying farewell to our mates from SV Breezy we departed Carnarvon for an overnight sail northward to Coral Bay. Us and a thousand bush flies. (Due to the lack of rain, there has been an infestation of flies throughout warmer parts of WA. Two hours of swatting and feeding the fish we had them under control). Initially with 18- 22 knot winds, and the mainsail and Code0 deployed, we were making good headway. Overnight that changed, and with a strong opposing current, short wind chop coming one way and swell the other, we were experiencing rocking horse conditions. With about ten hours still ahead of us we reefed the mainsail; Code0 in; and changed course twice. Initially towards shore (easterly) then back northwards. Sea state was slightly better, but winds continued at 20-28 knots so it was full on.

By mid morning conditions had moderated and with the mainsail and headsail deployed, and both engines on we were able to get some traction, in terms of both speed and distance travelled. Then around 11-ish Peter spotted a blow off our port side about 350 metres out. Our second whale sighting this trip. We waited patiently to see whether it would surface, and we weren’t disappointed, not only did it surface it breeched. Its full body out of the water before slamming back in, just spectacular. The remainder of our trip was uneventful, arriving and mooring at Coral Bay just before sunset. Essentially a rest stop, we plan to be here for two nights. Click here for our review of mooring at Coral Bay https://seagoddessadventures.com/coral-bay-mooring/

Norwegian Bay

Our next hop up the coast would take us to Norwegian Bay, but first we would back track along our inbound route through Coral Bay avoiding huge carpets of weed. The weed can be likened to a super large bunch of brown grapes with a thick central stalk and branches flowing from this. The current often brings several of these together, and they get tangled thus creating a carpet effect on the surface of the water. If it clogs the water intake valve of the boat engine/s or wraps around the propeller it can cause minor – major damage. So avoiding the really large patches is advantageous.

Great sailing conditions today, we were due a break. Two whale blows in the distance off our port side, didn’t breech though. Mid-morning we noticed a plane circling overhead, not once but three times. We didn’t think anything of until a fast-approaching fisheries boat pulled alongside, gave Peter a thumbs up and took off. Obviously checking if we were illegally fishing in the No Fishing Zone. Ningaloo Reef begins here, hugging the mainland and stretching northward for miles. Several shipwrecks charted on or near the reef, a paradise for divers and snorkellers. And there were several boats at anchor there, whilst we remained offshore.

Norwegian Bay is huge and absolutely gorgeous. Clear aquamarine water, tick. White sand and large pristine sand dunes, tick. Dolphins swimming, tick. Azure blue sky, tick. Rusted remnants of a whaling station on one section of the beach, umm, didn’t expect that! We took the dinghy over to the old whaling station and chatted with a local family who are frequent day visitors to the area. They provided some history about the whaling industry there and information about some of the equipment left behind on the beach and behind the sand dunes. They also warned us about the presence of asbestos material, where we could go and where we shouldn’t go. No signs on the beach, but we did note a warning sign on the beach access road when we walked around that way. Took lots of photos, before heading back to Sea Goddess for a quiet dinner and evening aboard. Click here for our review of the Norwegian Bay anchorage https://seagoddessadventures.com/norwegian-bay-anchorage/

Photos of the old chain mechanism that was used to haul the whales up onto the beach, and remnants of several old boilers.

Tantabiddi

We upped anchor at Norwegian Bay at 0445 to travel to Tantabiddi, about 60nm away. A full moon provided a good visual of the bay and we used our track from yesterday to avoid the shallows and reefs. It was an easy motor-sail, passing two sea snakes heading south with the current and two dolphins before reaching the well-marked entrance channel to Tantabiddi. Peter had booked a WA Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions mooring here, but we could not get the large mooring ball to stop going under the bridge deck and between the hulls. With high potential for damage to occur, and after two attempts we moved and anchored with no problems. Once anchored, a resident turtle who we would see throughout our stay here, swam passed. So, we knew we were in a good place.

Tantabiddi is not a town, it’s a jetty, a landing, a toilet block and a meeting point for commercial tour operators and tourists. By 0730 every morning the car park is full, with up to ten buses plus private cars in the car park. We had no luck getting a spot to swim with the whale sharks, only 10 people per tour boat are permitted, and tours were all fully booked till June 2025. ($500.00* per person for the whale shark swim, $300.00* per person as an observer and to snorkel in a nearby reef). A spotter plane goes up each morning to check if any whale sharks are around and radios the tour boats. (They had a long wait list for cancellations so that wasn’t an option given we were only here for a couple of days).

However, we did enjoy having a snorkel around a reef located about 300 metres behind Sea Goddess. We tied up the dinghy to a mooring ball out there, put out a safety line and in we went. Gorgeous tropical fish of all sizes and colours, however the coral was mostly dead but there was some big bombies, (vertical coral outcrops), some so wide and tall they were almost out of the water. The afternoon was rounded out by sundowners aboard Catalina II where Sandra was introduced to homemade, coconut flavoured rum with a good dash of pineapple juice and ice. Yummy!! Click here for our review of mooring and anchoring at Tantabiddi https://seagoddessadventures.com/tantabiddi-mooring-anchorage/

It was a long 124.5 hour nonstop sail from Tantabiddi to Grantheaume Bay, Broome. Initially we delayed our departure due to strong wind gusts, and when we did leave, we had to tack due to the wind being on the nose. With the tide also against us our speed was falling. So, we put the engines on and motor sailed while we waited for the forecasted wind change. We also made the decision to scrap our planned overnight stops and head straight to Broome.

As we passed the naval telecommunications base at Lighthouse Bay (just north of Tantabiddi), the sea state started to get very messy. It was hot and humid and as night fell, we could see lights from a gas processing plant on the horizon. We continued to motor sail that first night and for the next 24 hours as the wind had dropped to 4 -12 knots. We passed ‘pancake’ shaped islands including Barrow and North Sandy Islands, and lots of oil and gas wells, cargo ships and tankers. The largest one that we saw was a tanker, Orange Phoenix 300 metres long, and 50 metres wide, it was massive. We became aware that an adverse weather event was predicted for later in the week, and our plan was to head to Broome as quickly as possible to take shelter. Distance from our current position was 360nm which was doable in the expected timeframe.

At 0400 hours of Day 4 the predicted adverse weather event landed, early!! For the next 48 hours we copped some atrocious weather, we were battered by a series of squalls. Winds 29+ knots, short chop waves 1 – 1 ½ metres with the occasional 2 metre one thrown in, and seas like a washing machine. Peter was up top reefing the mainsail Sandra at the helm bringing the lines in, luckily the head sail was already reefed. (Unfortunately, in the process our sail bag ripped and will have to be replaced). By 1600 the next day conditions had not abated one bit. Short, high chop directly in front, sea water hitting the front windows and pouring along the hulls. Cooking, doing anything really was nigh on impossible, crackers were the go with the addition of cheese when the sea state permitted the use of a knife. If you’ve ever been on a waltzer or a rocking horse that never stops that’s what it was like, only you can’t get off. There was nowhere to run and no place to hide. Except if you happened to be a bird, every night we had at least one resting on the boat and gone by sunrise. Oh, to have wings!

Broome

Finally, by mid morning of the last day (Day 5) we could see land, and coincidentally the sea state began to settle. We anchored in Grantheaume Bay, Broome around 1730 and our priorities were shower, food and sleep. And we thoroughly enjoyed all three. Click here for anchorage info https://seagoddessadventures.com/grantheaume-bay-broome-anchorage/

The next day was Saturday (1^st June), and we spent the morning checking the boat and sails for any damage, cleaning, and some pampering. Just after four o’clock we took the dinghy to the beach, and walked to where we could see all the action in progress. People sunbathing, swimming, playing ball games, kids paddling and building sand pies with their buckets and spades. Two tourist boats meandering close to shore, one a stink boat the other a lovely old ketch. As we passed the Surf Life Saving Club and Cable Beach Resort, we could see lots of 4WD’s parked on the beach up ahead. Then we saw what we had come to see, a camel train, in fact three trains spaced apart, loping along with passengers atop. Sandra made a beeline to a lifeguard standing next to his ute and asked him where the best place was to get some good piccies. He happy obliged, and we ended up right in front of the ‘red’ group with 10 camels, perfect.

After getting our happy snaps we made our way to the bar for a wine and to watch the glorious sunset. Just sitting there enjoying the view and the ambience when all the camels, sans passengers, one after another walked in front of us along the road. Couldn’t believe our luck. Sitting across from us was a couple from the Sunshine Coast in Queensland on a 12 week caravanning trip. We chatted for ages about our respective trips and as we did, we were slow to notice night descending. By the time we left and got to the beach the only available light was from the restaurant/bar and the surf club. Once we were passed these points it was pitch black, no moon.

We walked and we walked using the torches from our mobile phones to locate the dinghy, which is mostly dark grey in colour! Don’t know if you’ve noticed but it can be really difficult gauging distance in the dark, and the further we walked we became concerned that we had missed it. Then Peter saw a white sign erected close to the sand dunes about having dogs on the beach. We had passed this on the way, so we now knew the dinghy was further along. Once we spotted it, we realised how far up the beach it was, which meant we would need to humph it all the way back to the water. We do have wheels on the back, though they can sink into the sand. Anyway, after pushing and pulling we inched it forward, finally 45 minutes later it was in the water, we were in the dinghy, and headed back to Sea Goddess. Next day was a quiet one, we were both a bit sore from all the shenanigans last night, Peter’s back, Sandra’s shoulder. Planning our next leg, organising visitor passes for some of our stoppages in The Kimberley, investigating and booking marinas for upcoming stops it was all useful.

Once again, while we were close to shops, we took the opportunity to replenish fruit, vegetables, small goods and buy a loaf or two of bread to replace our never-ending onboard supply of wraps. Sometimes you just want some toast. We took the dinghy to a sand area next to Grantheaume Point, this area is only accessible at low tide. At least a dozen 4WD’s and even some camper vans were taking advantage of parking on this area. People on their beach chairs next to their cars just chilling, dogs and children enjoying themselves running here and there. Peter dropped Sandra off and returned to Sea Goddess.

Rather than catching a cab Sandra decided to get some exercise and walk to the main shopping centre, according to Google Maps about 6.5 kms one way. Reaching the main road into town it was a matter of turning left and just following the dusty red ochre shoulder. Native trees and bushes on the left would lead to the sand dunes, beach and sea; cyclone fencing lined with bushes marked part of the airport boundary on the right. Cars, scooters, trucks, buses passing by, and I could see a large green road sign in the distance which pleased me no end. A few minutes later a car stopped and asked if I wanted a lift. I was so happy to see the car and the lady driver as I had done a really dumb thing. In my haste I’d forgotten to bring a hat and water, and it was super hot. She was in Broome for some R&R after presenting at a conference in Perth and had hired a car for the day. And an Adelaidean too! We chatted all the way and within 10 minutes we were at the shopping centre.

Finished my shopping at Woolies, just about to hunt down a taxi to find that she had finished her shopping and was waiting for me. I was gobsmacked and could not believe she would have done that; so unbelievably kind and generous. Went out of her way to drop me off at the access road leading to the beach, where Peter was waiting with the dinghy. I was so appreciative and hope if our paths should cross sometime in the future I can repay her kindness in some way. As Peter and I headed back to Sea Goddess we noted the increasing number of small cruise ships anchored in the bay, for example Kimberley Quest and Discovery One to name just two. We may meet up with them as we head north to The Kimberley. Bucket List Item Number 2 – here we come, Yippee!

*Prices correct at time of publication.

Duration: 66 days

Busselton

Oh my gosh what a great town, we fell in love with Busselton, and if we could pick it up and transport it to South Australia this is exactly the place, we would look to purchase a property when we move back on land. The town met all our needs … seaside location with a lovely foreshore, activities for all ages and shark safe swimming area; a thriving town centre with key services and lots of interesting shops, plus all the major chains as well; cafés, pubs and restaurants; easy to navigate; and key tourist spots a reasonable driving distance from town. Only one hiccup being the lack of public transport which is limited to buses with a very limited timetable.

After settling into the marina and cleaning the boat inside and out the day after our arrival, it was time to explore. Like a number of marinas this one is located a bit of a ways out of town, and given it was late in the afternoon we headed on foot along a pathway which ran northward and parallel to Geographe Bay. The beach was pristine, the weather ideal and we walked through the shallows on our return. Next day was our first trip into town and it was a bit of a hoof. Walking about an hour from the marina to the nearest bus stop to catch a bus that only comes three times a day. We didn’t have a SmartRider card required for public transport at this stage, and as the bus driver had no cash on hand to give us change, we got a free ride into town. He also gave us directions to the bus depot where we could each purchase a card for $10.00*, cash only. (NB SmartRider cards can be purchased at designated newsagencies in larger regional towns, cities and at train stations. Additionally, while Centrelink concession cards are accepted, interstate senior card holders must apply for a discount fare rate using a specific form which takes time to process. As we didn’t have a concession card, we don’t have a fixed address and we were moving on we didn’t bother pursuing the senior card application. After a 30 minute walk each way to the bus depot, some shopping, lunch and a walk around town we were ready to head back to the marina. Unfortunately our timing wasn’t great, with a forty minute wait for the bus to arrive. By this stage it was early afternoon and about 35°C, and following another long walk back to the marina we were hot, tired, sweaty and sore!

Our experience yesterday spurred us to bite the bullet and purchase two NCM Paris ebikes online. We had investigated doing so prior to leaving Adelaide however time just got away from us. But yesterday proved how valuable they would have been. So we placed the order which included two bonus packs of helmets, bike locks, an additional light each and mobile phone holders. The bikes and so on should arrive in a week’s time. In the meantime Peter hired an escooter ($20.00*) to get around for the things he needed; we used the bus or caught a taxi into town ($20-25.00* one way for a taxi).

So the freezer … the whole point of being in Busselton turned out to be a bit of a dud. We contacted the refrigeration mechanic in town by telephone and were told that ‘they don’t service or fix this brand of freezer anymore. And no, the boss wouldn’t make an exception this time’. Ugh! Another internet search identified the closest mechanic in Rockingham, about a two hour drive away. On ringing, Peter got a positive response, we just had to get it there. Two days later and with the freezer loaded into the back of a hired delivery van we drove north along the main highway towards Perth before turning off at the Kiwana Highway to wind our way through the streets of Rockingham and dropped off the freezer. As the van wasn’t due to be returned until tomorrow morning, we squeezed in a grocery shop as well.

The next couple of days were spent at the marina, and then the ebikes arrived. Peter got them both set up, and the next day we were off. As with most things Peter got back into bike riding as though he had never stopped, Sandra less so, a bit nervous and a bit wonky. The whole watching for cars, pedestrians, dogs; managing gears and speed; together with up and down bike paths and foot paths was initially all a bit much. And then came the first crunch, as Sandra came off the footpath into some soft sand and over she went. A few minor grazes and bruises but no major injuries thank goodness.

We cycled each day and found new routes to get into town, our favourite was a bike path south of the marina which hugged the coast and took us straight into the main beach-jetty area. (The path continued on, and you could get to Dunsborough and beyond if you wanted to). Sometimes we went in for a swim in the shark proof area, grabbed an ice cream or a coffee at a café, or with backpacks on we were able to get groceries for about two days.

Two weeks into our stay we got a call that the freezer was fixed and ready for pick up. So once again we hired a SUV and made the four hour return trip to Rockingham. We also took the opportunity to shop for some of the larger and heavier groceries that were difficult to carry in our back packs.

This trip is not just about getting from A to B, but enjoying the journey along the way as well. When there is an opportunity to engage in an experience and/or further explore a town or region we try our best to do so. One such experience was the Busselton Jetty Train & Observatory Experience. We chose to do this on the Saturday before we departed, unfortunately it wasn’t great timing. The Coral Princess cruise ship was anchored in Geographe Bay so we knew the jetty and town would be busy. Undeterred we cycled to the tourist office at the entrance to the jetty and booked our place in the 3.00pm timeslot. Quick top up shop then back to the boat for lunch. Then back to the jetty at our allotted time. The ‘Thomas the Tank-esque’ train was cute and everyone inside and out were in good spirits, waving and high fiving as we trundled along to the observatory aquarium (likened to a very large tube which descends beneath sea level). Entering the aquarium at the top level (gift shop and café), we met our tour guide who provided a historical overview of the jetty and the aquarium. We descended the aquarium via a concrete spiral staircase (four levels in all), at each level the tour guide provided some information about the fish, coral and plant life. It was really great, lots of different fish types, plant life attached to the jetty pylons, and would you believe some scuba divers swimming pass. Once we exited via the top level we had the choice of returning to the foreshore via the train or walking. Peter and I chose the 1.8km walk along the jetty before cycling back to the marina.

A couple of days later, and after booking a hire car, we ventured south along Busselton Highway via Vasse; the town of Carbunup River (blink and you will miss it), Cowaramup (with fibreglass cows and calves in various poses dotted along the main street) to our first stop the township of Margaret River. I guess we were surprised that there weren’t as many vineyards as we had anticipated, and wineries were congregated in the coastal area between Gracetown and Yallingup. Given we have visited numerous wineries in South Australia stopping at wineries here was not the focus of our trip today. As for the township of Margaret River, we found it to be very touristy (no surprise there) – boutiques, surf shops, cafes etc. From here we headed to a lovely small town called Witchcliffe, and there were lots of references and models of witches to be seen throughout the cafes and shops. Moving on, and with the road hugging the coastline, we drove through Augusta to our next stop Cape Leeuwin lighthouse.

The lighthouse and surrounds are well kept, $12.00* each (senior rate) for entry ($19.00* each if you want to include a tour of the inner lighthouse). We weren’t fussed on the tour opting to do our own thing – visiting the Lightkeeper’s Cottage with lots of interesting memorabilia and information to read. Then onto the lighthouse itself which is grand in stature, and a landing which overlooks the meeting of the Southern and Indian Oceans. An Anzac memorial commemorates naval seaman lost from HMAS Nazim, as well as lighthouse keepers and staff.

We ate lunch at Hardy Inlet which is fed by both fresh water from the land, and sea water from the Southern Ocean. From here heading north and closer to the west coast we made way for three caves – Jewel; Lake, and Mammoth Caves. Cost of entry even for seniors we felt was high $22.00* each (senior rate) at Jewel, $28.00* each (senior rate) at both Lake and Mammoth Caves. Given the cost and time of day we gave them a miss, opting to visit Ngilgi Cave tomorrow.

Next a coastal town called Prevelly which was awe inspiring, highlighting the strength and power of the sea. A huge swell was running, with two kitesurfers and a windsurfer showing us their skill as they darted and weaved to catch the next huge wave. And to think this swell most likely started in Africa!! Then onto Gracetown and specifically Cowaramup Bay where it was the surfers turn to impress us before returning to Busselton for the night.

Next day we headed northwest along Busselton Highway passing through Dunsborough then via Caves Road to our first stop Castle Rock. Making our way along a gravel trail to a tall, broad striated rock on the shoreline surrounded by other rocks both under and above sea level. Gorgeous bay with crystal clear water. Then following a quick stop at Point Piquet and Garret Rock it was on to Cape Naturaliste lighthouse. Entrance was free as the lighthouse was undergoing maintenance and fenced off but we could walk as far as the fence and take photos. Sugarloaf Rock was next on the agenda, once again an amazing rock edifice on the edge of the ocean. Then came the highlight of the day Ngilgi Ancient Lands Experience ($30.00 each entrance fee with seniors discount). Initially we walked via a winding path to ‘stations’ where we learnt how the caves were formed, about the indigenous significance of the caves and area, and the discovery of the caves by European settlers. Then we descended into the cave itself, just exceptional. Two chambers filled with stalactites and stalagmites in various shapes and sizes from the floor, the roof, the sides. We loved every minute.

Our last stop was Canal Rocks, an amazing rock formation stretching out to sea.  Sea water, thundering over the top and sides created shallow rock pools and the water of the surrounding bay was once again a beautiful aquamarine colour. What a fabulous two days, Western Australia has just blown us away and to think there is so much more to discover as we continue to travel north. For our review of Port Geographe Marina click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/port-geographe-marina/

**Naturaliste and Geographe are names of ships that came to this area by initial explorers.

Bunbury

After a 6 ½ hour motor sail, and with little wind and dodging a myriad of crab pots, we anchored in Koombana Bay Bunbury in front of the impressive Dolphin Centre building. To the left of the Centre is a commercial wharf with a steady stream of ships entering and leaving, to the right the Bunbury Sailing Club; Department of Transport Marina and town centre. As is our usual practice on arrival we opened all the hatches to allow air flow throughout the cabins and saloon, imagine our dismay when we woke up the next morning only to find all boat surfaces, inside and out, covered in a layer of dark brown gritty dust. Courtesy of the commercial harbour, it was the last thing we wanted or needed; and it’s going to take a lot more than a couple of hours to clean. (But bit by bit, area by area we got it sorted over the next week). Hatches are now fully closed!!

Each morning we were also entertained by groups of tourists who entered the water to about thigh height to hand feed a pod of dolphins (obviously a regular occurrence as the same thing happened the next day at the same time). Similarly, each morning a tourist boat arrived to take people out for a ‘dolphin experience’ which included the opportunity to swim with dolphins. Something we may consider doing later in our trip if the opportunity arises.

Peter also contacted the Vice Commodore of the Koombana Bay Sailing Club to ask if we could dock our dinghy at the club. He received a very positive response including an invitation to use the club’s bathroom facilities, bar and restaurant. Just another great example of the camaraderie and helpfulness of the sailing community. After leaving the dinghy at the club we walked around the town centre and park, then topped up on fresh fruit and milk at the local supermarket before returning to the boat. For specific information regarding this anchorage click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/bunbury-anchorage/

Mandurah

The ten hour sail from Bunbury to Mandurah was dogged by fickle winds, 17 knots in the morning dropping down to 10 knots in the afternoon. The winds also brought a distinctive smoke haze across our route due to a land-based fire. Arriving at Comet Bay Mandurah we were lucky to secure a 72 hour Department of Transport courtesy mooring. We were just about to start our post sail checks and activities when a large power boat pulled up to the mooring next to us towing a sunken yacht! Honestly, it was surreal and not something we have seen before. The only reason we knew it was towing a yacht was that part of the mast was protruding out of the water.

Then things got interesting, as over the next couple of hours until sunset a diver and the salvage crew worked to put in place large yellow flotation cells which were then aerated. By sunset the stern and the starboard side of the yacht were out of the water, but they were obviously having difficulty raising the bow. The boat remained in place overnight, with the diver and salvage team returning early the next morning to resume their efforts. They managed to slightly raise the yacht further then they towed it in a partially submerged state through the bay, then the breakwater to the marina for an emergency lift out. The salvage team then went back out to recover the keel which was also lifted out the same day. (Turns out the yacht had lost its keel earlier in the week, but we don’t know the circumstances which led to this). Wow, not something you see every day or want to see, and our thoughts went out to the owner/s.

We didn’t go ashore at Mandurah, spending the time ‘continuing to clean up Bunbury dust’ and doing some boat maintenance. Click here for more information re moorings at Mandurah https://seagoddessadventures.com/mandurah-mooring/

Rockingham

With minimal wind we had to motor sail up the coast from Mandurah to Rockingham, six hours in all. The journey required us to split two vertical reefs, one close to shore and an outer reef, with crab pots scattered here and there adding to the mix. Unfortunately, we were unable to take a short cut to Rockingham by sailing under the Garden Island Causeway (11.9 metres), a bridge from the Western Australian mainland to the naval base on Garden Island, due to the height of our mast (23 metres). So, it was the long way around the island for us adding another 1 ½ – 2 hours to the journey. Lots of reefs on the west and north side of the island, also areas of depth below 5 metres which impacted on our course. On the east (naval) side of the island two naval ships,and a sea and rescue boat were moored whilst cargo ships were anchored close to the commercial harbour on the mainland side. A tugboat went roaring passed leaving a huge wake behind (not impressed) plus a number of pleasure craft were out and about …. it was busy!

The mooring area was easy to spot, but finding our designated mooring ball was like trying to find a needle in a haystack – eeny, meeny, miney, moe . I suggested to Peter we just take one, any one that was free. But Peter was determined we would find C1. After a couple of rounds of what looked like some sort of minefield, we finally found it and settled into what will be a 2 week stay here. Lovely outlook with a gorgeous beach lining the large horseshoe bay which sweeps from the causeway bridge all the way round to the commercial wharf. Jetty, bridge and Garden Island to our left; another jetty, sailing club, cafes, restaurants and foreshore grassed areas and playgrounds to our right with the main town behind. Click here for more information re moorings at Rockingham https://seagoddessadventures.com/rockingham-mooring/

Next day we took the dinghy to the main jetty, then walked from here around the town to get our bearings and some badly needed food supplies. (We had been here before to drop off and pick up the freezer but that was quite a distance away from our current location). Google maps has been pretty good thus far, and we found the local shopping centre with no issues. Back to the marina by taxi with bags of food ($14.00 fare for those who may be interested). Back on board we both got tizzied up (well as much as you can when you have to climb on and off a dinghy and traverse choppy sea water) for our wedding anniversary dinner. Went to the Cruising Yacht Club on the sea front where we had a lovely meal and were entertained by a great singer.

A trip to Fremantle was on our bucket list of things to do and we were advised by transit staff to travel by bus. It was a long trip from Rockingham much of it through the outer suburbs, but we finally got there. Peter needed to purchase a replacement mobile phone, so we placed an order and will be notified when it arrives. Then we walked along the road which runs parallel to the docks and train line to the Western Australian Maritime Museum. Gorgeous old buildings from the 1800’s lined the left side of the road, most had been carefully renovated and were still in use though not for their original purpose. Arriving at the museum we purchased tickets for the James Cameron Challenging the Deep Exhibition and the general maritime museum area (senior rate of $35.00* for both of us, cheering!!). The exhibition was both educational and entertaining with movies of completed deep dives to the Titanic passenger ship; Bismarck war ship, and other ships off the American coastline. There were costumes and props that had been used in some of his movies including The Abyss and The Titanic, as well as cameras used on the dives. Next was a wander through the general maritime museum. The highlight of this section was seeing the ridgy didge Australia II with its keel intact on display. (This photo does not do justice to the size of the boat in real life).

We walked along the dock area back to the railway station, passing the Rottnest Island tourist boats; a tall ship named the Leeuwin II (similar to the One and All in Adelaide); as well as market stalls, bars and cafes set up in the old dock sheds. Caught the bus, train, bus back to Rockingham jetty in a slightly shorter timeframe than the way there but not by much. We’ll get the train to Perth then out to Freo next time, will be quicker and less mucking about.

Easter Monday and the foreshore was alive and rocking with a huge Irish Festival, as well as food and craft stalls of all kinds. And we enjoyed walking along the foreshore, mingling with the crowd and watching the concert on stage.The photo below is part of the re-enactment of Irish citizens landing in Western Australia.

A couple of days later we were back in Freo to pick up Peter’s new phone. We caught the bus a short walk from the dinghy dock to the transit station and picked up a train into Perth then another to Fremantle. Honestly, we are getting out and about like locals. Then back to Perth where we spent some time strolling Hastings Mall and the CBD. A couple of days later we returned to Perth making our way by bus to scenic Kings Park where we spent the morning taking in the views over Perth and Swan River; visiting the State War Memorial cenotaph, such a beautiful setting with the Flame of Remembrance and Pool of Reflection in the foreground; strolling through the varied gardens dedicated to the differing regions and climates of this vast state. Then it was a long walk back into town to Government House, the Supreme Court building, Bells Tower; Perth Mint and the popular Elizabeth Quay area – about 15,000 steps in all, phew! And yes, our feet were a tad sore.

Luckily the next few days were quieter with locally based activities, cleaning the boat inside and out and passage planning for our trip north. We enjoyed our stay in Rockingham, lovely beaches and parks with easy access to restaurants, cafes, shops and services and excellent public transport options.

Rottnest

Following a steady motor-sail passing Garden Island once more we headed slightly north-west to reach Rotto, as the locals like to say, early in the afternoon. From our mooring we could easily see the main jetty on our right, and from the number of people onshore that looked like the place we needed to be. So we beached our dinghy next to a number of others just a stone’s throw to the local hotel, perfect! Lots of people enjoying the sunshine, piped music, wine and beer. Kids swimming and paddling in the water, and bikes. Bikes of every size and type, some with those little carriers for kids to sit in, and as we walked to the Information Centre there were hundreds of them lined up and available for hire. Spoke with Centre staff about options for getting around …. hired bikes obviously, an island loop hop on hop off bus stopping at major attractions was available for a daily rate of $30.00 each. After a chat we decided to give both those options a miss and stick with walking. (You might be wondering why we didn’t bring our ebikes to the island. After trying various lifting options, they are just too awkward to get on and off the dinghy from the transom. And we were worried that any misstep could cause one or both to end up water).

We reckoned we could get at least a couple of hours walk in that afternoon so grabbing some maps we headed northwest along a road with tourist shops and eateries on one side and what used to be a prison for approximately 3,000 indigenous men and boys on the other. The buildings, chapel and quadrangle were undergoing renovations whilst we were there, all very European/British in design. We couldn’t help but wonder what conditions would have been like in the late 1800’s early 1900’s for these men and boys, and to be so isolated and disconnected from their families and communities would have been just dreadful. On we walked to Lomas Cottage (see below), now a museum for children which was closed, and spotted our first quokka just sitting by itself sleeping in the open under a tree. Not the only one we would see as we continued onwards, and despite the regular signs ‘Don’t Disturb, Don’t Touch, Don’t Feed the quokkas’, they often approached people and/or weren’t fussed about being approached. Obviously the quokkas didn’t get the message!

The road continued, with the shops and old buildings giving way to lots and lots of holiday accommodation on either side. It was a perfect day so heaps of people were out and about. A short time later we arrived at Bathurst Lighthouse set upon a rise with a 360° reach across the island, mainland and Indian Ocean. To the left of the lighthouse was Pinky Beach, with lots of people taking advantage of the beautiful beach and protected bay. The road ended here so we backtracked towards the dinghy and Sea Goddess for a wine, dinner and to plan tomorrow’s walk.

Next morning, we headed left this time taking the dinghy to the beach adjacent to Amity Groyne. As a bonus we watched a number of tandem skydivers safely land on Amity Beach, so cool. Then using one of the tourist maps we followed a road to the disused Kingstown Railway Station and Kingstown Barracks which are now used for backpackers accommodation. From here we followed an unmarked trail to the coast with great views over Thomson Bay, then another to abandoned and derelict military buildings from World War II – Observatory Point. Paterson’s Beach was next with gorgeous rock formations, similarly Henrietta Rocks where a pod of dolphins were having a feed out in Porpoise Bay. At this point the weather was looking ominous, thunderstorm clouds rolling in, some lightening and rain in the distance but possibly headed our way. So we hoofed it back to the groyne and shelter shed for a rest before taking the dinghy back to the boat. Just as we were about to leave we were joined by a curious quokka, not shy or nervous at all and very interested in Peter’s backpack (no doubt looking or hoping for some food). Got up and very close, so gorgeous. Back at the dinghy Peter noticed and removed a wad of fishing line from the propeller, that and crab pots are the bane of our life. Back on the boat, sitting in the cockpit having a wine when the ‘Rottnest Rangers’ came around in their rib checking that moored boats had paid up. Moving on to Two Rocks tomorrow where we will finalise our plans, provisions and checks before heading for the Kimberlies. Click here for more information about mooring at Rottnest Island https://seagoddessadventures.com/rottnest-island-mooring/

Two Rocks

After a roly poly night thanks to the remnants of Cyclone Olga, we left Rottnest Island around 0815. Not a lot of wind so we motor sailed up the coast, dodging crab pots as we went. Closer to Two Rocks we could see new housing developments emerging along the coastline. This area has recently been designated for the building and establishment of a new industrial hub by the Western Australian state government, so the housing expansion will no doubt be welcomed.

Currently, Two Rocks is a small town servicing the local community with an IGA supermarket; health services including a GP, physio, dentist and chemist; bar and bistro; opp shop; post office and the like. A public bus links the town to a major shopping strip at Yanchep and the Butler railway station as well. Here there are direct train services to Perth and surrounding locations, and to Mandurah in the south. The name Two Rocks is literally derived from two large rocks situated on the shore near the town and marina (you can just make out the second one on the left of this photo).

Behind the shopping centre is a series of rock sculptures – the one of King Neptune and his trident looking out to sea is particularly impressive. It was fenced off while we were there, not sure why but we managed to get a photo anyway.

Our main purpose for stopping at Two Rocks was to have a safe and secure place to leave Sea Goddess while we headed back to Adelaide for a family catch up. The trip to the airport was seamless – bus from Two Rocks to Butler Railway Station, train to Perth where we transferred to the High Wycombe line for the airport station, then dedicated shuttle bus to the airport. The eight day trip was everything we had hoped for and we loved every minute, spending time with the people we love and who love us right back. Back on board we started prepping for the trip north by filling the fuel tanks and jerry cans; washing; menu prepping for 10 weeks and completing our first ever online shop. This provision order was massive and should see us through to Darwin. Two days later the food order arrived, and we spent nearly three hours checking the delivery, packing the fridge and freezer, and finding spots for all the other stuff. It was also Peter’s birthday so with that and being our last night before moving north we treated ourselves to a yummy meal at the local bistro. Click here for information about the marina at Two Rocks https://seagoddessadventures.com/two-rocks-marina/

From here we will continue our sailing journey northwards towards the Kimberlies.

Duration: 24 Days

We left Bandy Creek Boat Harbour around 7-ish, and as we motored out of the breakwater a bit of a swell was running which got progressively stronger and larger (3 – 4 metres) the further we travelled through Esperance Bay. We made our way between Black Island and Magistrates Rocks watching as the swell crashed against the rocks. As an aside, a number of islands and rocks in this region have a significant undercut due to the continual pounding of waves. Black Island looked a bit like a mushroom with a wide thick stalk low to the water. Other islands, due to their foliage and shape, looked uncannily like huts you would find on south pacific islands.

Woody Island

We made good time and entered the waters of Woody Island by 0900, mooring near the jetty in Shearwater Bay. More mooring information can be found here https://seagoddessadventures.com/woody-island/

The bay provides good shelter and is lined by stunning rock formations. Not long after our arrival the island tour boat arrived with day trippers and those who had booked to stay on the island. We took the dinghy and tied off at the jetty before making our way to a large wood frame building which housed Blackjack’s Bar and Bistro; billiard and table tennis tables; lounges and eating area. Making good on our promise to buy something while on the island we had some morning tea before heading off for a trail walk.

The island is quite small but packs a punch with amazing views from every pathway …. Twiggy Landing where we were able to look back on Cape LeGrand National Park with a whole new perspective. Then Hilltop Trail through native scrub to Skinny Dip Bay a secluded U-shaped bay with crystal clear aquamarine water. From here we circled back to the jetty. On the way we chatted with the tour boat skipper, a young man working the summer season here before heading back to Queensland to work the tourist season up there. With plans to buy his own boat in the future we gave him big wraps for his work ethic. We also met Murray, the guy who leases 13 hectares of the island from the Western Australian government and runs the ecotourism-holiday facilities on the island. After telling us some of the island’s history and how he got involved, he invited us to join a penguin tour he was running after sunset. He even picked us up from our boat, amazing. When we got to the jetty a gorgeous young sea lion was frolicking in the water, getting super excited when the boat pulled up. Murray told us it loves to swim with people and will hang around all day as long as someone is in the water.

There were 10 of us on the tour, a league of nations by the sounds of it, English, French, Spanish, German, and with torches in hand we followed Murray over large boulders, on our knees through gaps between boulders, at times right on the water’s edge. First stop was the nest of a large footed gull, but no one was home. He explained that the chicks were now large enough to fend for themselves. One was flying around overhead letting us know it wasn’t happy we were encroaching near its territory. Onto the ‘mountain goat track’ where we saw our first penguin …. who was very shy. Leaving it be we continued on till Murray found a bush gecko, which some members of the group held. Moving on we spotted another three penguins before retracing our steps. On our way back the first penguin had been joined by another ….. it was a real aaww moment as they were so protective of each other. Then onto a rock pool with sea crabs feeding before returning to our starting point. So great, what a treat and to think if we hadn’t picked up a brochure from the Esperance Information Centre we would have missed all this.

Woody Island offers day trips from Esperance as well as accommodation including glamping, safari huts, a couple’s retreat, and camping facilities for those who want to BYO. On our walk we spotted the large camp kitchen with fridge, microwave and BBQs. The separate men’s and women’s toilet and shower blocks were clean and well maintained. The bar has a selection of alcoholic and non alcoholic beverages, café style coffees as well as tea. The bistro is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner offering a limited pub style menu which needs to be preordered. For more information about the island, accommodation and moorings head to their website woodyisland.com.au

Butty Harbour

After a wave to Murray we departed Woody Island around 0830 the following day. With little to no wind we motored towards Butty Harbour. Just under 4 hours later we arrived to a stunning vista ….. tall, white sand dunes; crystal clear aquamarine water with a southerly swell breaking on nearby rocks. But the best thing ever was the name of the beach ‘Plum Pudding Beach’. Hands down the best name ever, and so aptly named. The way the foliage had grown downwards towards the beach with vertical sand patches in between, it gave the impression of custard dripping down a Christmas plum pudding. With the bay to ourselves, gentle waves lapping against the boat, the sun shining throughout the day before gliding into a picturesque starry night sky it really was super special and one of the highlights of the trip thus far.

Continuing West

We upped anchor at Butty Harbour/Plum Pudding Beach on the 31^st January, so it has been exactly one month since we began our adventure. As we were leaving the bay, a large pod of dolphins were having a feeding frenzy close to the beach. We must have caught their attention as a group of about 10 dolphins broke away, swimming alongside and in front of the trampoline, one taking a huge leap out of the water nearby. Its moments like these that we sail for …. finding these gorgeous locations and meeting the ‘locals’. For an overview of this anchorage click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/butty-harbour-anchorage/

Our next planned stop was Hopetoun, with an overnight stop at Investigator Island. We could have pushed on but for safety reasons we prefer not to anchor in the dark unless absolutely necessary. Our research suggested that the Island also provides protection from strong easterly winds which were predicated for later in the day. Initially with one engine on, there was just enough wind to make it worth our while putting up the main and the jib. But a side on southerly swell wasn’t helping matters, and by 1000 hours winds had shifted from southerly to south easterly, so engine off, jib in and Code 0 out and we were making good progress.

The predicted ESE – SE wind came early continuing to increase in strength and turning easterly. By 1530 we had reached the island, which is shaped like a side on horseshoe or U shape. One long side of the U is to the east and is a long, tall granite structure which flows downwards towards the short bottom curve of the U which is to the south (think Antarctica), the other long side of the U runs west and again is quite tall. The opening faces the mainland i.e. northwards. The entrance between the two headlands is a difficult one. Two large rock edifices essentially guard the entrance with underwater reefs creating an additional hazard. With both engines on to combat the easterly wind, and visualising the navigation charts, Peter guided the boat into the relatively narrow bay between the two headlands. Well that certainly got the attention of the seals and cormorants who immediately perked up and watched our progress quite closely.

To gain the best protection from the winds, the best spot to anchor was as close as possible to the eastern headland. So once in place, and with an anchor chain:depth ratio of 1:4, we deployed the anchor plus 60 metres of chain. Unfortunately, we couldn’t get the anchor to set, it just kept shifting and with a slew of huge boulders behind us we were concerned about dragging towards them, or with that much chain out swinging towards them. Neither of us felt comfortable, it was just too risky to stay so we abandoned our plans to anchor here and turned to Plan B …. depending on the wind either Peppermint Bay or Bremer Bay. It would mean an overnight sail, something we were trying to avoid, but quite frankly neither of us would have slept where we were anyway. Click on the link to get Peter’s take on this anchorage https://seagoddessadventures.com/investigator-island-anchorage/

Bremer Bay

After a tiring overnight sail, and based on wind direction, Peter made the call to anchor at Bremer Bay. We arrived in glorious conditions to an idyllic sea and beach setting. (We could visualise Peppermint Bay from our anchorage and could easily relocate if wind conditions changed). But at this stage it was all about completing our post sail checks and tasks and getting some sleep. We were awoken by the anchor alarm screeching, luckily we had just swung around but the sea state in the bay was certainly rocky (think rocking horse) as a result of a change in wind direction and a swell running. So early the next morning we re-anchored closer to the lee of a hill and things were a lot less bouncy.

The weekend brought a number of 4WD’s onto the beach with people making the most of the sunshine, surfers were making the most of the swell and a host of small power craft and those on shore were trying their luck to nab a fish or two. Our plans to head out to Bremer Canyon to hopefully see the orcas who migrate there on an annual basis was looking good. A distance of 40 nautical miles (74.5kms) from our current location, about a 9 hour sail. We plan to leave at night in order to be at the canyon by early morning, by all reports the best time to sight them …. hope they’ll be hungry for breakfast!

We spent three great days at Bremer Bay just chilling and catching up on minor jobs. On the last day while Sandra was prepping for dinner, she noticed that some of the meat and packet vegetables stored in the bottom freezer drawer were thawed or partially thawed. We managed to salvage what we could and transfer these items to the top drawer which thankfully was still working. The rest went overboard ….. providing a smorgasbord for the fish. So that certainly put the kybosh on our plans to bay hop along the southern coast, instead we would make way directly to Albany after Bremer Canyon. Fingers crossed there is a local refrigeration technician who can help us out. Link to information about Bremer Bay Anchorage https://seagoddessadventures.com/bremer-bay/

We upped anchor at 1900 hours with only a slight chop within the bay but that was all about to change. Within an hour of leaving the swell had increased, now running at 2 – 3 metres and we were heading straight into it. With both engines running we continued on. However, as evening turned to night sea conditions worsened, it was just awful. There was absolutely no way one of us could rest, we both needed to be on our game. By midnight, 5 hours in we had travelled 19 nautical miles, a tad over 35 kms and it was unlikely we would make our destination around sunrise, the optimal time to see the orcas. Given the unyielding sea conditions and the potential stress not only on the boat but on us too, we made the decision to give up on the hunt for orcas and changed course for Albany. (Luckily Peter had already organised a berth at the marina there in anticipation of getting the freezer fixed).

The remainder of the night was a really hard slog, washing machine seas did not abate. even with our routine of four hour shifts we were both so tired ….. not helped by Sandra accidentally leaving a tap running which flooded the galley, part of the saloon and the walkway of our cabin area. It could not have happened at a worse time. We just sopped it all up with towels and left them in a pile to deal with when we docked.

Finally, as we motored closer to Albany in daylight hours the landscape became clearer and increasingly impressive – Cape Vancouver, Mt Gardner, Rock Dunbar then on through the Middle Channel between Breaksea and Michaelmas Islands. Breaksea Island was particularly pretty with its two old style brick houses, working lighthouse and jetty. By 1800 hours we were passing Albany’s dedicated cargo ship anchorage area and commercial wharf before reaching the marina. What a relief to finally dock, and then it was time for a big hug and pats on the back for getting through a tough 24 hours. Click here for our review of Albany Marina https://seagoddessadventures.com/albany-marina/

Albany

Heading into the marina it is impossible to miss the huge modern building that is the Albany Entertainment Centre which is bordered by the multistorey Hilton Hotel, a pub and restaurant called Due South, and the Hazbeanz café on the foreshore. Dan Murphy’s, an IGA supermarket and a lovely rose garden dedicated to the service of nurses during times of war are close by.

A pedestrian/bicycle overpass, behind the entertainment centre, provides access to the town centre over tracks. This section of town is particularly geared for visiting cruise ships and other tourists …. cafes, restaurants of all cuisines, galleries with locally made goods, jewellers, and upmarket clothing shops line the main street. Located beyond this precinct is a plaza with Aldi and Coles supermarkets and other retail outlets, Woolworths is located nearby as well as a hub with Officeworks and the usual chain stores.

The next day we headed left from the marina passing the Entertainment Centre following the shoreline of Hanover Bay to the well-maintained Anzac Peace Park. Signage throughout the park provided an account of Albany’s role in transporting troops in both World War I and II. Further on we reached a full-scale replica of the brig named ‘Amity’ which we were able to board and chat with the volunteer about its history. A short walk then brought us to some of the original buildings and houses from the 1800’s, as well as the Museum of the Great Southern. Peter also checked out refrigeration mechanics, unfortunately there weren’t any mechanics who repaired our brand of freezer in the local area. So we decided to make the most of our time here by organising a hire car for three days to travel beyond the town limits.

On the first day we headed northeast bound for the iconic Wave Rock. As we travelled beyond the town centre of Albany we were surprised by the level of new development and construction, both residential and commercial, encircling the town and slowly replacing farmland. And in a relatively short amount of time, we were passing the beautiful Stirling Ranges, reaching the country town of Lake Grace for morning tea at Rosie’s café. We took the opportunity to chat with the owner about the presence of a lake since we hadn’t seen one nor any signage alluding to one. She assured us that the ‘lake’ was about 7 kms from town just passed the cemetery, though it was unlikely to have much water at this time of year. As we planned to return here for an overnight stay at the local motel, we decided to take a detour on the way back to check it out. But first, onto Hyden and Wave Rock.

We arrived an hour later to find a caravan park on one side of the road and a strip of shops, a wildlife park and the Wave Rock Resort on the other. The shops were a bit of a weird collection and included:

• ‘The Lace Place’ which had everything made with lace or decorated with lace. From handkerchiefs, to dresses, to umbrellas and all sorts for the home;
• an Off Road 4WD museum;
• a miniature military museum, and
• a café with a large collection of souvenirs including taxidermic birds.

Café staff informed us that tickets to visit Wave Rock could be purchased from the Caravan Park Booking Office across the road. Adult passes were $6.00 each, surprisingly good value. We set off down a dusty path expecting a bit of a trek, when about 250 metres in there it was, we were standing right in front of this amazing natural wonder. Just stunning, and exactly as we had pictured it. So we sat on one of the benches and just absorbed it all, the height, the colours, the perfect wave shape. At the far end a set of steps had been constructed which led to the top of the rock. From here you could see beyond the Wave Rock complex to surrounding salt lakes, scrub, and hills in the distance. Next to the steps a dam had been built which supplies the Hyden community with water.

We walked along the top of the rock, keeping a safe distance back from the edge (no fencing here!) then back down the steps to follow another path leading to another rock formation called Hippo’s Yawn. The path, about 4.5km in distance, hugs mammoth terracotta-red coloured rock cliffs some with major cracks, others were overlapped by sections which had sheared off from above. Once reached Hippo’s Yawn is aptly named, with the rock formation bearing an uncanny resemblance to a hippo yawning.

The path then circled back to the car park. It was a super hot day, so we moved the car under the shade of some scraggy trees to eat our packed lunch. Most of the food had survived though the apples tasted exactly like stewed apple and the sweeties were so warm they just melted in our mouth. We then headed back to the township of Lake Grace, and taking the directions provided at Rosie’s Café we arrived at the salt pan lake. The lake, divided into sections was absolutely massive, North Lake Grace, South Lake Grace, Big Lake and Lake Altham. Not a lot of water, which is to be expected at this time of year in the southern part of Western Australia. Given the number of tracks going this way and that, the lakes are obviously a well used four wheel driving circuit for the locals.

We booked a night’s accommodation at the ‘Lake Grace Motel’ which was attached to the Liberty Roadhouse, need I say more . We had hamburgers for tea which was the healthiest thing on the menu, and they were pretty good. Next morning, we were up early and out the door, fuelled up and Peter checked out the breakfast offerings at the roadhouse – chiko rolls, chips, pies and pasties. We gave those a miss and headed to Rosie’s for breakfast, but it’s closed on Saturdays so headed across the road to a very chic ‘Melbourne-esque’ establishment for bacon and eggs on sour dough toast. (From one extreme to the other).

As part of the trip back to Albany we had intended to visit the Porongurup National Park to do the Granite Skywalk at Castle Rock. According to the tourist blurb, this entails a ‘challenging 2-3 hour walk’ which we just weren’t prepared to do in the predicted 35 degree heat. So giving this activity a miss, and with another ‘touristy’ day ahead of us tomorrow, we took our time on the drive back … stopping for coffee at the Bluff Knoll Café and to take some photos along the way, including of all things a giant windmill.

On our travels throughout southern Western Australia, we have been intrigued by all the township and river names ending in ‘up’ …. Porongurup, Millinup, Chillinup, Ongerup, Jerramungup, Cowalellup, Takenup. So we checked it out, and the ‘up’ originated from an indigenous dialect which means ‘place of’, makes sense now. (This piccie of Silo Art is an example of such art found throughout many Australian country towns reflecting the history, work and/or lifestyle of the region/town. We found this great example at Pingrup).

The next day, and with the hire car for one more day, we started our tour by turning right from the marina and headed up to Mount Clarence and Mount Adelaide. (The houses nestled in the foothills of Mount Clarence overlook the Albany township, marina and bay; whilst from Mount Adelaide the view is to Oyster Bay behind).

Mount Adelaide is also a military heritage area with a range of buildings and paraphernalia on site including:

• the newish National Anzac Centre
• Convoy Walk
  • with a gorgeous Rose Garden paying tribute to the service of women during war times, and also to those women who contributed to and supported the war effort at home;
  • a restored married quarters building;
  • munitions bunker and
  • a lookout over Oyster Bay.

From here we travelled 110kms west to the Valley of the Giants Timber Top Walk, a suspension bridge structure that winds its way near the top of magnificent Tingle Trees. Then onto the ‘Ancient’ Empire, a ground level walk through a maze of trees with explanatory notes along the way.

The road to and from Albany winds its way through farmland, Kauri forests and vineyards. Lots of small business enterprises along the way including wine tasting and sales, chocolate, pottery, surfboard maker, B&B’s to name a few. It’s been an awesome three days, the car has provided us with the opportunity to get off the boat and explore at our own pace beyond what we would be able to explore on foot or by public transport, and we’ve enjoyed every minute.

As an aside, and in the short time we have been travelling we have met a myriad of people who have gone out of their way to help us. Whether it’s taking a line while we are docking, local knowledge about things to see and do, anchorages, marinas, weather conditions, we have been extremely fortunate. And we are just so thankful to have such kind people in our lives even for a short time. We caught up with Trevor and Dianne (Perth), Geoff and Jane (Denmark) at Albany. Owners of the catamaran Giko, we initially met them at the marina in Esperance and they have been amazing. At Albany, Trevor drove us out to the airport to pick up a hire car for our recent sightseeing trips. Then over sundowners, Geoff and Jane offered to take us to some key coastal sights surrounding Denmark the next day.

We were up early and drove Geoff’s ‘marina based’ car to their house located near Denmark, where we joined them in their SUV for a drive through winding country roads flanked by super tall Kauri trees. First stop, Green Pools ……. a gorgeous beach with massive rock structures at one end that then scattered in an arc to create crystal clear pools of water. From here we took a path across the rock structure to a secluded beach on the other side. This area is known as Elephant Rocks, as the formation is like a herd of adult elephants. I kid you not – the ears, the trunk, legs, hoofed feet it was amazing. Back to the car and a short drive later we were at Ocean Beach inlet and main beach (William Bay), obviously a well known surfing destination. Then with goodies from the Denmark bakery we headed down to the river for lunch before returning to Geoff and Jane’s place to pick up the ‘marina’ car and return to Albany via an alternative scenic route. Mutton Bird Island; Frenchmans Bay; the historic Whaling Station; Vancouver Road Lookout overlooking the peninsula; before turning back to take in the sights on the other side of the road …. Jimmy Newells Harbour overlooking Misery Beach; then further on to a downward hike that led to an active Blowhole. Overall, a massive day but so worth it. Huge shout out to Trevor and Dianne, Jane and Geoff for going above and beyond. Pictures below: Green Pools; Elephant Rocks; part of the Whaling Station exhibition and Jimmy Newll’s Harbour.

The next three days were spent on the boat …… Peter trying to find a fix for the freezer problem, doing a top up shop, and joining the cruisers from the tourist ship ‘Azamara Journey’ on what will be our final walk into town. We departed Albany at 1600 hours on Saturday 17^th February headed for Dunsborough. This required two overnight sails, and once again the Southern Ocean was less than kind, strong Easterly winds, sloppy seas and swell created a washing machine effect. Rocking and rolling in the dark about 5-8 nautical miles offshore is really challenging. Finally, the sea state calmed around Bunker Bay. More great names …. Cow and Calf Rocks, another set called Three Bears and then Sugar Loaf Rock. At 0100 hours on our last overnight sail we rounded Cape Leeuwin ….. Hello Indian Ocean! And by 1500 hours we were anchored in the calm waters of Dunn Bay Dunsborough. But that’s not all …… we were just completing our post sail checks when a very active pod of 4 – 5 orcas, with their distinctive colouring and fin shape, appeared off our port bow. Heaps of splashing, one breeched then dived right back in. We had noted the schools of fish earlier as we searched for a large sandy patch to drop the anchor, guess the orcas did too. For anchorage information click here https://seagoddessadventures.com/dunsborough-anchorage/

We had planned to stay in Dunsborough for 3-4 nights, taking the opportunity to explore what we could of the township, and further afield by whatever public transport was available. But it wasn’t to be. By lunchtime the next day the top drawer of the freezer wasn’t working, and some food had already started to thaw. We cooked up what we could that night and popped it into the bar-sized fridge that we have onboard, the rest went overboard, again! We researched ‘Refrigeration Mechanics’ and there was a company in Busselton so Peter organised a marina berth there for a month. This would give us plenty of time to get the freezer fixed and time to ensure that the ‘fix’ worked before restocking the freezer. We’ll also organise a hire car here for a couple of days to visit Margaret River as well as Cape Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste National Parks.

So after a crazy night of rolly polly seas, rain squalls with winds gusting upwards of 25+ knots we departed Dunn Bay for Busselton, about a 3.5 hour trip. Passing the famous Busselton Jetty we made our way through the breakwater to our berth at Port Geographe Marina. We scored a great berth, one near all marina facilities including The Deck tavern and restaurant.

More to come soon.

Duration: 22 days

Stage 1 – Adelaide to Port Lincoln

Well after all our planning and preparation, Day 1 of this epic journey was about to begin.  Leaving Adelaide on the 31^st December 2023, New Years Eve was quite poignant given we had arrived in Adelaide on New Years Day 2021. After completing last minute preparations and with our close neighbours on the dock to see us off, we departed 35 South Marina at daybreak, smoothly sailing out of the breakwater straight into a 1 – 1½ metre southerly swell. Not the start we had hoped for. With jib and mainsail deployed and the starboard engine at 1500rpm, we settled for 5-6 knots SOG.  The swell was constant, hitting our port hull, reaching our first waypoint at Marion Reef just south of Edithburgh at 1220.

Our next waypoint required us to traverse Investigator Strait. Previous sails across this Strait can be likened to a washing machine with Sandra succumbing to the dreaded seasickness. Thankfully the sea gods were kind, and we made good time rounding the corner to Spencer Gulf as night settled in. Wind speed dropped (10 – 15kn), the sea calmed, pitch black sky for a while then the moon came up just before midnight. Happy New Year! We sailed overnight, the first for us in a very long time. Not as easy this time and we both struggled from lack of sleep. (Though not surprising given we were up at 0345 the previous morning). Our original plan of six hourly watches was quickly discarded, two hourly was all we could manage at this point in time. As the night progressed, the wind and sea state required much closer monitoring so it was a very long and exhausting night.

We made our way through the main shipping channel of Spencer Gulf, as venturing outside of this would require dodging the many fish farms that are on both sides of the channel. Peter had previously checked out possible anchorages where we could get respite from southerly winds and into calmer waters. He settled on Fisherman Point, part of Spalding Cove, Jussieu Peninsula. Then – anchored, breakfast, anchor watch on, bed – perfect.

Next day we took the dinghy to shore and walked around the cove’s horseshoe beach. With craggy rock formations at either end of the bay and crystal clear water it was really pleasant …. until huge sandflies arrived. Sandra got bitten, but they avoided Peter. I remember reading somewhere about not putting body lotion on in these environments even if unscented since it attracts flies, mozzies, fleas etc. Lesson learnt!

With the arrival of gusting winds and rain, we anchored in Spalding Cove longer than anticipated, three nights in all. It’s a good anchorage so no problems there. We just chilled out, chatted with family back in Adelaide, Peter completed our passage plan to Streaky Bay. We had also been thinking about heading into Port Lincoln for a couple of days to check out the town and get our electrical cords tagged and tested. (Evidence of this is a must for Western Australian marinas). So we contacted Port Lincoln Marina and we were in luck, a double berth was available which was great. Check out our review of Spalding Cove Anchorage and Port Lincoln Marina here https://seagoddessadventures.com/spalding-cove-anchorage/ and https://seagoddessadventures.com/port-lincoln-marina/

Port Lincoln

We arrived at the marina early on a Friday morning, and as previously mentioned one of our top priorities in Port Lincoln was to get our electrical cord tagged and tested. We had already teed up an electrician who promised a short turn around time. So once all our post sail checks were completed to our satisfaction we headed out for a long, long walk – just over 11,000 steps one way. We dropped the cord off with a pickup time of Monday, then headed for Bunnings. I swear Peter can smell a Bunnings 5 miles away. As is common nowadays Bunnings was part of a franchise shopping centre and all the usual stores were there or nearby. Then it was a return walk back to the boat and a treat of a meal at the hotel located next door to the marina. Our thoughts about the meal can be found here https://seagoddessadventures.com/port-lincoln-marina/

Over the next couple of days we were holed up on the boat due to thunderstorms and drenching rain. We used this time to make soup; odd jobs inside the boat and started a new jigsaw. Sandra is a fanatic jigsawer, only problem is once the puzzle comes out nothing else gets done. So much so that she now limits herself to one per month. This one was a doozy, circular and intricate and Peter got hooked in as well. It was a gifted puzzle and missing a couple of pieces but well worth the challenge. Monday arrived and Peter headed off to pick up the tagged electrical cord, cost $55.00* including GST. Next on our list for the morning was a top up provision shop at a supermarket in the town centre. Taxi costs from marina to supermarket – $14.00* each way and given there are no public transport options available you don’t have a lot of choice. Once back and with a plan to leave for Streaky Bay tomorrow, we headed out for some exercise. Walking in front of the apartments that border the marina, we crossed a small bridge to ….. you guessed it Bridge Crescent, then onto St Andrew’s Drive before arriving at Billy Lights Point Boat Ramp about a 7km round trip, enough to get some huffy puffy exercise happening.  On our return it was time to get the boat prepped, something to eat and a good night’s rest.

*Prices correct at time of publication.

Stage 2 – Port Lincoln to Streaky Bay

You’ve gotta laugh at some of the names of coastal places and bays. Some names are obvious because of the shape, location, vegetation, or rock formations. Some are probably named after kings, queens, skippers, crew, their families or hometowns. But others no idea, and we often wondered who named them and why that name …. Point Fanny, Rotten Bay, Carcass Point and we’re sure there will be more of such along our journey.

Once we were near Taylor Island we changed course and with little wind continued motoring between the island and mainland. We had a tip from a marina neighbour in Adelaide to check out Grindal Island (sounds like something out of Treasure Island, don’t you think). Well we weren’t disappointed, the slabs of rock on the shore line were littered with seals all lazing about without a care in the world. Just amazing!! And if that wasn’t enough a large pod of dolphins arrived to have a fish-fest.  We just loved this spot and the surrounds, so much so that we moved slightly further out and anchored for the night. https://seagoddessadventures.com/grindal-island-anchorage/

The next day we breakfasted while we watched the sun rise then we were off, motor sailing passed Cape Catastrophe (I think the name says it all) by 7-ish then across the peninsula to Cape Carnot. Rugged, scrubby hills with sharp drops, often with mounds of huge rocks at the bottom as though they had toppled from high into the sea. During the afternoon we passed a number of islands and stunning white beaches that went on for miles. No doubt these would be a huge drawcard if they weren’t so isolated and the waters so unpredictable. By 1700 winds had picked up considerably, 25-30 knots with 1½ – 2 metre seas. As we approached Point Sir Isaac we had some difficulty getting the mainsail down, a combination of wind and chop, it wasn’t tidy but it was down. Next door was Seasick Bay our anchorage for the night. For real it is called Seasick Bay and it’s not even a bay it’s a beach with a pile of rocks at either end, the monohull we had been following was bang in the centre, ugh! So we took the northern end and got in as close as we could to the beach, avoiding the scattered undersea rocks we anchored in sand while leaving enough swing room. Top tip: the anchor alarm is your best friend in these conditions. Check out https://seagoddessadventures.com/point-sir-issac-anchorage/

The next leg required a full day sail and an overnight sail as well, so we left Seasick Bay a bit later the next morning. (This would allow us to arrive at our next destination in daylight. We try as much as we can to arrive at our destination after sunrise and before sunset – docking, anchoring and mooring is just so much easier). Initially the wind was directly behind us, so we motor-sailed for the first part with Peter putting a preventer on the main and the jib. Over the next few hours the wind gradually gathered strength and turned South-South East which was great for us. It was quite awe inspiring to think we were sailing the Southern Ocean, nothing between us and Antarctica!! The water was the most beautiful aquamarine colour and super clear as well. To starboard we passed impressive cliffs near Elliston, two rocks called The Watchers (aptly named as one of the rocks looked like a googly eye on the navigation instruments), after the Watchers came Anxious Bay. And you’ve got to wonder what happened here for the bay to get that name. Then onto Topgallant Isles with Flinders Island behind on our portside.

There are two incredible sights that never cease to grow old, one is sunsets and that evening it was absolutely glorious, setting quite quickly but leaving behind hues of yellow, peach, pinks, lilacs until night fell. Then we found ourselves under a canopy of a gazillion stars, no moon that night, just sailing with starlight and the shooshing sound of Sea Goddess as she moved through the water, just magic.

We continued to motor sail throughout the night, Peter up around 0500 to change course which was made particularly challenging with strong winds and swell. Luckily the main and jib were already reefed and with both engines on we got on course. With strong current and competing swells, Sandra nursed our passage through the last hour of her shift watching the dawn glow as we passed Gibson Peninsula. With the sails in we motored into Streaky Bay, taking careful note of channel and danger markers which were the cone type floating in the water. Some nice beaches on either side and a small oyster farm set up.

As we neared the township and jetty we were taking note of possible anchorage points. Mainly heavy weed, though there were some sand patches, and we took advantage of one to set anchor in Smoke House Bay. About an hour in we were visited by a local in his tinny who advised us a ‘big blow’ was predicted that afternoon and it would be best if we moved to another location across the bay nearer to the caravan park. There was also a mooring there that we could use, but he couldn’t tell us the specifications or if it had been maintained or not. Plenty of sand here so we decided not to risk the mooring, and re-anchored.

After heading to the foreshore on the dinghy, we made our way into the town centre which is very small but had all the usuals. Petrol station, IGA supermarket, post office, pub/hotel, pharmacy, gift shop, real estate agent, op shop, restaurant and a couple of cafes. The priority was to post a letter so once completed, and with Sandra feeling overheated in the scorching dry heat we headed back to the boat. We had only been back on the boat for about 20 minutes when the anchor alarm went off. The head on wind had significantly picked up, and with the profusion of sand we knew the anchor had dragged. We decided to try for the mooring, and while we were retrieving the anchor another boat snaffled it. With the wind gusting up to 40knots, averaging 30knots, we decided to move and get some shelter. We tried two other spots, but due to the wind strength and angle and the sea state these weren’t suitable either. Luckily Peter had seen a possible anchor spot when we were heading in but didn’t pursue it at that time because of the distance from the town.

Cape Bauer is littered with large sand patches and we anchored here with no problem. Once all the drama had passed and we had time to draw breath, we couldn’t help but be thankful we came back on board when we did. Our original plan after the post office was to head to the pub for a drink and a light meal, but with Sandra being unwell we gave it a miss. Don’t even want to think about what might have happened to the boat if we had stayed in town longer. We stayed at Cape Bauer for 2 nights resting up, doing some onboard jobs and waiting for a good weather window to cross the Bight. Check out our review of these anchorages here https://seagoddessadventures.com/streaky-bay-anchorage/ ‎ and https://seagoddessadventures.com/cape-bauer-anchorage/

Stage 3 – Streaky Bay/Cape Bauer to Esperance

Up early to prepare for our departure from Cape Bauer, and really excited to begin our crossing of the Great Australian Bight, it’s been on our bucket list for a long time. Unfortunately, the ESE wind direction directly behind us is spoiling the party. With engines on, jib and main deployed with preventers to achieve a butterfly formation we motor sailed for most of the day. We also brought the clears down and have found we can get an extra ½ – 1kn Speed Over Ground (SOG) which doesn’t sound much but over the course of a day it adds up. Once again we were treated to an amazing landscape – cliffs, beaches, islands. The sea was lumpy and bumpy all day, though we did manage to sail for a few hours until the wind dropped around 2300 hours and the engines went back on. This was our second overnight sail since leaving Adelaide, and they are definitely more difficult until your body adjusts. We have found the more nights in a row the better. It’s the periods of stop start that are the kicker. We now run with a 4 hour on, 4 hour off roster day and night and this works for us.

Day 2 and we are heading up the east coast of the Bight, Yalata Land, the landscape here dominated by expanses of super white sand that stretch on and on. At 1715 we reached the Head of the Bight and Bunda Cliffs, and we were stoked. Lots of piccies so we can look back on this achievement in years to come. Then the clouds rolled in and the swell picked up. The night didn’t improve, winds 25+ knots and seas like a washing machine. Reefing sails in the dark with the wind howling and feeling like you’re on a bucking bronco may be exhilarating for some, for us it’s part and parcel of the sailing journey but painful nonetheless. Plus it means one of us has lost an hour of shut eye. The wind and sea conditions continued throughout Day 3, crossing into Western Australia a tad before noon Yay!!

As the day progressed with more of the same conditions we were both exhausted and cooking was out of the question. So, we got by with lollies, CC’s, crackers and sweet biscuits. The nearest protected anchorage was two days away and would require us to significantly change course, better than bouncing around getting no where fast, so we headed for Daw Island. 45 ½ hours later we were anchored between Daw Island and New Year Island, YEAH!!. Daw Island is lovely, a large headland with rounded peak at one end flowing down to a long lower expanse then rising to another flat-topped peak. We were greeted by the honking of a colony of seals who spent the morning swimming and sunning on the rocks. At lunchtime the bull arrived on the beach to check us out, we obviously weren’t seen as a threat but he hung around for a few hours anyway. We considered taking the dinghy to shore, but in the end decided not to do so. Firstly, our landing point would be very close to the seals and as this is their territory, we didn’t want to disturb them any further, plus there was a report on Zulu Waterways that the island is home to large numbers of death adders ……. so that would be a no. How they got there is anyone’s guess! https://seagoddessadventures.com/daw-island-anchorage/ ‎

After a great night’s sleep and a berth organised at Bandy Creek Boat Harbour, we upped anchor the next morning heading for Esperance. Southeast of Bellinger Island we came upon large patches of what we believe to be plankton on the surface of the water. Camel brown in colour each patch was like a carpet. At times the edge had a striated or marbled effect which was really gorgeous, like a large painting or mural. And as the hulls moved through the patches, the plankton was pushed to the side giving the appearance of melted milk chocolate. If only!!

We sailed passed many bays and islands on our way to Esperance, we had planned to anchor a couple of nights at Goose Island Bay but with predicted 35+ knot winds in the offing we decided to keep moving just in case the winds came early. It was a tense night watch for Sandra as we dodged a number of islands; huge rocks that protruded from the sea and a number of reefs on a dark night. Peter navigated an excellent course that kept us safe and moving. But there were times when my perception suggested that these huge monoliths rising from the water were closer than they were. Peter told me ‘Trust the navigation tools and charts’, me I like to eyeball stuff as well.

We arrived at Bandy Creek Boat Harbour (Esperance) around 7-ish the next morning. Sandra prepped the boat for docking as we entered the breakwater, and as we took a sharp starboard turn it quickly became apparent that our regular docking set up was not going to work. It wasn’t a dock but a wharf, with large old wooden pylons, the end one dressed in old tyres. Well it was a mad scramble as the wooden gangway was higher than the deck, so all the fenders had to be raised. And there was not a cleat in sight. We were blow on, so Peter managed to steer the boat so that Sandra could get off, unfortunately in doing so a black tyre mark discoloured the starboard side of Sea Goddess, ugh!

Once off Sandra secured a midship line around the nearest pole which was about halfway along. Peter left the helm and threw out the bow line which was also secured but the boat still needed to move forward. By loosening the midship line, bringing in the bow line and using the engines, little by little we moved her along, repositioning fenders (mainly horizontally) as we went. Honestly this was the worst docking experience we have had to date, and the rest of the marina didn’t look much better. Coming off a full night’s sail with associated watches this was the last thing we needed. Next – food, organised a hire car for tomorrow then sleep in that order. PS We got the tyre marks easily off with Jif. Check out our review of Bandy Creek Boat Harbour here https://seagoddessadventures.com/bandy-creek-boat-harbour/ ‎

Esperance

The following day we got a taxi from the marina to the Information Centre ($28.00 one way fare). Even though we have done our homework on essential tasks we need to complete for example post office, top up shop, as well as places we would like to visit, it’s our usual routine to stop at the local Information Centre the day we arrive to get initial directions, maps and suggestions for other places to visit. And in this case it was well worth stopping by. After picking up the hire car we headed out on a circular scenic drive called the ‘Great Ocean Drive’. Following the map, courtesy of the Information Centre, and stopping at various points along the way, we were blown away by beauty of rugged headlands, crystal clear waters and long stretches of sandy coastline which are a stone’s throw away from the town centre. And it just got better and better.

The next day we drove east to Cape Le Grand National Park ($10.00 entry per car with senior’s discount). We spent the morning Oohing and Aahing; as we took in even more amazing scenery ….. Cape Le Grand, Hellfire Bay, Thistle Cove with its Whispering Rock and lastly Lucky Bay for a packed lunch (where if you are ‘lucky’ you’ll see kangaroos hop along the beach particularly at sunrise). Frenchman Peak towers over the interior park scrub land and we had planned to complete the 2 – 3 hour hike up to the top after lunch. But given Sandra’s shortness of breath climbing some of the headlands and stairs to observation points she bowed out. As it was getting well into the afternoon when we arrived at the base, Peter gave it a miss too but we got some fabulous piccies.

Heading back to the marina we took a slight detour to Lucky Bay Brewery on Fisheries Road. A large range of beers were on offer, and we both tried honey beer and mulberry beer. Peter settled on the honey beer which he said was very nice but not as good as his favourite Asahi. Sandra had her standard glass of Sauvignon Blanc, but this was only permitted if you bought something to eat …….. a small bowl of chips was the cheapest thing on the menu at $12.50! (Think a cup of chips that you would buy at a fairground).

For our last full day with the hire car we headed 127km west along the South Coast Highway to Munglinup, a very small town/roadhouse where we each bought a famous Mungy Burger ……. you name it and it was on it, and it was de-licious! ($15.00 each and it was worth every mouthful). Then onto Munglinup beach and reef via dirt roads, the water was freezing so we gave the planned swim a miss settling for a long walk in the shallows.

With the car due for return at midday the next day, we headed to Woolies for a top up shop and to fill drums with diesel for the boat. Once dropped off at the boat it was a return trip into town, car dropped off, lunch, then a 9km walk via the esplanade and beach back to the marina. We stopped off along the way to book an overnight mooring at Woody Island, an ecotourism resort, about 9 nautical miles direct from Bandy Creek Boat Harbour. Overnight moorings are free here, as long as you book and contribute in some way i.e. purchasing a meal, drinks or the like while you are there.

Last day in Esperance we got some more huffy puffy exercise walking along the beach of Wylie Bay to Wylie Head (1½ hours each way). At low tide you can walk via a spit to large climbable rocks that are partly submerged at other times of the day. Very nice, but the real entertainment was happening on the opposite side. 4WD cars attempting to ‘drive’ up the granite headland to the top. Some made it and there was lots of Whoop-ing, some didn’t, only to come down and try again. Must be one of the local ‘bragging rights’ challenges, crazy stuff.

Our plans to leave Esperance for Woody Island the next day were scuppered by the wind, predicted to be NW turning SE at 30 – 40 knots with gusts up to 50 knots. So our agenda changed to a chilled boat day.

In a nutshell, the southeast region of Western Australia is Australia’s best kept secret. The scenery here is spectacular, the beaches are on a par with those of Queensland, people we met were friendly and helpful. To our family and friends, we would highly recommend making the trek. A car is a must as most of these places are a distance from town, a campervan or caravan would be even better.

We thought to make the most of Peter’s annual leave in April by sailing further afield to explore South Australia’s Spencer Gulf, checking out some of the islands and time permitting including a short stop over in Port Lincoln.  

Thistle Island

We left early Saturday morning bound for Thistle Island, and with little to no wind in the initial stages we motor sailed throughout the day.  Winds picked up in the evening and overnight, 10 – 19 knots, and we arrived around 10ish on Sunday morning (189 nautical miles travelled over 26 hours). 

The island sits off the lower east coast of Eyre Peninsula and is an impressive size.  As we were making our way to our planned anchorage we observed several houses dotted along the southern and south eastern hills.  We also spotted a small plane near what appeared to be a tin shed.  We were both tired from the overnight sail so crashed for a few hours.  The island is lovely, peaceful and provides much opportunity for beach walks, hiking and fishing.

Anchoring and Mooring

There are no mooring facilities here.  We anchored in Whaler’s Bay on the east side of the island which provided good holding in sand and protection from southerly winds.

Sir Joseph Banks Group

This chain of islands is located East to North East of Port Lincoln.  There are numerous low lying islands which make up the group, many with associated shallow reefs.  

We left Thistle Island around 9-ish, once again the wind wasn’t playing nice so with calm seas and light winds we motor sailed initially to Sibsey Island and then onto English Island.  As these islands are a known spot for sea lions to rest, we got a bit excited as we assumed the movements we could see were seals, the binoculars told the true story …. lots and lots of cormorants flapping and carrying on.  Just a tad disappointed!  We continued north between Roxby and Hareby Islands with a view to anchor at Reevesby Island.  Our preferred anchorage spot had already been nabbed, so we anchored in the unnamed bay south of McCoy Bay for the night.

We noted in our reading of the ‘Cruising Guide For South Australia’ that tiger snakes and death adders have been reported on the group islands, we weren’t sure how accurate there reports were but we decided not to put it to the test and stayed onboard during our time here.

Anchoring and Mooring

We can only talk about Reevesby Island, we didn’t drag and held well in sand.  There were no moorings available in the vicinity of the islands we passed or where we anchored. 

Going forward from Reevesby we had originally intended to head for Port Lincoln but Peter was concerned about predicted wind changes which would have made it difficult to get back to Adelaide.  So we thought we would head up to Wallaroo which we hadn’t visited for many years.  It would also provide an opportunity to top up on diesel.  We knew there was a marina at Wallaroo and were hopeful of staying for a few days so we made a call regarding a berth.  From our protracted internet search we finally got a mobile number which turned out to be a real estate agent.  We were advised that all berths are privately owned and there are no public berths available.  We were also advised that the fuel dock was not available for recreational vessels.  So we scratched that idea and checked out the map of Spencer Gulf.  Neither of us had ever been to Port Victoria and when we looked at the town map there was a service station where we could get fuel. So Port Victoria here we come!

Wardang Island & Port Victoria

We upped anchor at Reevesby Island and 10.5 hours later we were at Wardang Island.  By this stage it was twilight so we decided to anchor here for the night.  The next day we motored into Port Victoria and anchored north of the jetty.  We plonked a couple of jerry cans in the dinghy and took off to have a look around and get some fuel.  The main street extends from the jetty, with a combined general store/take away food shop/post office, pub, community hall and of specific interest to us a large tin shed with an old style bowser out front, directly on the kerb.  Unlucky for us there wasn’t anyone around.  So with jerry cans in hand we retraced our steps hoping to find a local that could give us some idea when the shed would be open for business.  No luck there either.  So we headed back towards the jetty, and decided to try our luck at the general store/take away shop. 

The couple running the shop informed us that the guy who owns the petrol outlet doesn’t open on Wednesday’s, he’d be opening sometime the next day.  However, Minlaton was about 100kms away and we could get fuel there.  We thanked them and explained we were on a boat with no transportation so that wasn’t an option.  So it was back to Sea Goddess with empty jerry cans.  After dragging north of Port Victoria jetty due to strong winds, we moved back to the shelter of Wardang Island.  Though it took us a few goes to set the anchor due to heavy weed.  In these situations AnchorWatch is your best friend.

Anchoring and Mooring

There are no moorings available here.  In terms of anchoring, poor holding with weed on sand.

The next day we were on our way to Edithburgh, joined by several pods of dolphins along the way.  But with rough seas we changed plans and decided to sail direct to 35 South Marina North Haven, Adelaide.  When we turned into Investigator Straight that night, we were hit by 25-30 knot South Easterly winds with a two metre chop resembling a washing machine. Sandra was sick as a dog, so Peter was on his own.  This lasted all night and into the next morning.  We had to tack up the straight and it took 15 hours to reach Marion Reef.  Once we passed Marion Reef on the final leg home, the sea state dropped and we had a great sail, making up to 8 knots.

We arrived at the marina breakwater in the dark and had to navigate to our berth in the dark.  This was a first for us at this marina, and the channel is poorly lit.  The lights from surrounding houses made it all the more difficult.  Sandra was on the foredeck keeping a lookout as the channel is not very wide.  We made it to our berth without incident, other than for the frayed nerves.

Addendum

Port Victoria is a small seaside town with a rich maritime and fishing history, and this is a common thread across a number of coastal towns that are located on St Vincent and Spencer Gulfs.  From our observation, we were saddened to observe the slow decline of these towns.  For many the tourists who arrive on long weekends and school holidays are keeping them afloat.  The towns folk we have met along the way are so helpful, interesting, and equally interested in us and what we are doing.  We want to take this opportunity to encourage those reading our blog to visit and support our regional communities, their businesses, museums, pubs, cafes and shops.  Let’s do our bit to sustain them into the future.

Blanche Point

The Point is a rocky limestone outcrop which is an extension of the cliffs providing a backdrop to a gorgeous beach.  Gull Rock sits just off the Point.  Approximately a 5 ½ hour sail from Outer Harbour, Blanche Point provides good protection close to the cliffs and beach for South – South-Easterly winds.  Not recommended in a South-Westerly swell as it will be quite rolly. 

For our first trip here we joined a group of boats heading there for an overnighter, arrived around 2.30pm on Day 1.  We checked in with our mate in the monohull about where we were all going to anchor.  Imagine our surprise when he said ‘Look for the green sign on the beach that tells you whether you need to wear clothes.  We’re all going to anchor just before that’.  Peter and I looked at one another and said at the same time …. ‘It’s Maslin’s Beach’.  Maslin’s is famous throughout Australia, and we had known about it since we were teenagers.  Maslin’s is the one and only sanctioned nudist beach in South Australia.  The section nearest the car park is clothed, the section nearest to Blanche Point clothing is optional. 

The outcrop has a large flat area on top which is a mecca for wedding photography.  We were fortunate on our second trip here to sit in the cockpit with a wine and watch a wedding party make the most of the changing colours of sunset.  Whether you’re a naturalist or not, this is a great spot for an overnighter or a stop-over on your way further south.

Anchoring & Mooring

Mooring is not available here, but there is good anchoring in sand.

Port Willunga

NB Port Willunga is literally around the corner from Blanche Point.

Our first trip to Port Willunga was part of a longer planned sail to Kangaroo Island.  It was New Years Eve 2021, and we had both taken 2 weeks leave from work so we were looking forward to a great sail and night.  The wind was fickle so we motor-sailed for the most part arriving around 7-ish.  The horseshoe bay is beautiful ….. surrounded by limestone cliff face broken mid way by a wide walk way.  The southern end of the cliff is dotted with hollows close to sea level, and the sea itself was crystal clear down to a sandy bottom.  The beach was humming with tents, eskys and people were making the most of the water, swimming, kayaking and paddle boarding.  A few came up and said Hello!  Later that night NYE celebrations began with music and a fabulous firework display.  A perfect way to end another great year and welcome in 2022.

We returned here for a second visit the following year, this time by dinghy from Blanche Point.  Joined a number of others for a morning stroll along the beach to the cliff face checking out the rock pools along the way.  Port Willunga adjoins with Aldinga where you’ll find a supermarket, take away food outlets, cafes and the like.  If you love the sea and sea activities, Blanche Point and Willunga will not disappoint.

Anchoring & Mooring

Mooring is not available here, but there is good anchoring in sand.

Kangaroo Island (KI)

NB We both have many fond memories of KI, as we honeymooned here many moons ago, though we were in Kingscote at that time.

We upped anchor from Port Willunga on New Year’s Day, and due to calm conditions and winds around 3 – 9 knots we motor sailed.  Joining us at various points along the way were pods of dolphins, we counted 57 in total, a record for us in our travels thus far.  The dolphins were a different species from those we have seen previously at North Haven, the Port River and St Vincent’s Gulf.  The dolphins along the southern coast were smaller, slimmer with creamy yellow underbellies and a different shaped snout.  Our niece who works in marine environments says there are a host of different dolphin species in South Australia. 

After nine hours we arrived at Nepean Bay, Brown’s beach a popular anchoring spot for yachties was full so we headed further west to Island Beach off of Rocky Point.  Next day an early morning beach walk was just the ticket checking out all the plush holiday houses, before strong southerly winds kicked in by afternoon.  Our anchor dragged and we moved a bit further west and reset with no further issues.  

We moved on the following day (03/01/2022), winds 20kn+ across to Marsden Point; North Point before taking shelter in Boxing Bay.  Caught up with a couple from our marina for sundowners.  It was a roly poly night with swell and wind gusts persisting at 20kn+, and with more bad weather predicted we headed out to find better shelter.  Our first option was Emu Bay then Smith Bay.  We anchored in Emu Bay a little off shore in perfect sea conditions (wind gusts 16kn+ close to shore).  We took the tender onto the beach for a walk, and got ‘showered’ by the swell when trying to get back on.  We were glad no one was watching as it was absolutely hilarious, we were laughing so much it made it that much harder!!

We stayed another night and day at Emu Bay before heading further west along the northern coast of KI to Western River.  Wind gusts of 28kn+ made for very uncomfortable sea conditions, put first reef in and changed course a number of times to try and reduce the impact with not much effect.  Five hours after leaving Emu Bay we reached Western River.  The bay was much smaller than anticipated and a boat was already relatively close to shore.  There wasn’t enough room for us to go closer to the beach and still have enough swing room, so we anchored at the entrance to the bay between two hillocks, not great as the swell made things very rocky.  A couple of hours later a fishing boat came roaring in with a flurry and significant wake (Grrrr!).  Just to add to the mix the guys left their spot light on all night, so between the roly poly swell and being lit up like a Christmas tree it was a long night with not much sleep.  Oh, and the boat’s name ‘Shooting Star’, how apt. 

No surprise that we moved further on to Snug Cove, though in choppy sea conditions.  Love the name, reminded Sandra of the Barbara Cartland romance novels based in the Cornish coast of England.  It was just beautiful, and the name couldn’t be more fitting.  Shaped like a wine glass, the entrance is quite narrow, which then opens up to a bay.  There are a couple of moorings here, and we made use of the one in the middle and in the deeper part of the bay.  Headed to shore, to check out the large fallen rock structures which were scattered throughout the beach.  NB Snug Cove should be avoided in northerly winds, according to a local source boats have been beached here in the past.

We left Snug Cove on the 8^th January bound for Edithburgh with overcast conditions and intermittent misty rain.  There was either no wind or inconsistent wind direction with swell, so we motor sailed.  Closer to Edithburgh the chop picked up as did the wind, 15+ knots.  This was our first time navigating Sultana Passage, at low tide, and we didn’t have any issues doing so.  The area is heavily weeded, so we borrowed a mooring ball. A walk into town capped off a less than optimal sailing holiday before heading back to Adelaide. Please follow this link for a review of Edithburgh https://seagoddessadventures.com/sailing-st-vincent-gulf-south-australia/